What I-Cord Edging Is and Why You'd Use It
I-cord edging is a small, rounded tube of knitting that you attach to the edge of a finished piece—a blanket, scarf, sweater, or shawl. It's made on just a few stitches (usually three or four) and looks like a thin rope sewn or knitted directly onto your project. The result is a polished, professional finish that frames your work and prevents edges from curling or unraveling.
I-cord edging serves both practical and aesthetic purposes. It stabilizes edges that might otherwise roll inward, adds visual interest through texture and color contrast, and makes a piece feel intentional rather than rushed. You can knit it in the same yarn and color as your project for a subtle finish, or switch to a contrasting color or yarn weight to make the edging a design feature.
Key Takeaways
- I-cord edging is a small tube of knitting worked on three to four stitches that you attach to your project's edge as you go or after the piece is finished.
- You can pick up stitches along the edge of your finished piece and knit the i-cord directly onto it, or knit the i-cord separately and sew it on afterward.
- The most common method uses a cable needle or double-pointed needle to slip stitches to the far end of the needle without turning, creating the tube shape.
- I-cord edging works on any edge—cast-on edges, bind-off edges, side edges, and armholes—and you can change yarn color or weight to match your design.
The Two Main Methods: Attached or Separate
You have two routes: attached i-cord, where you knit the edging directly onto your finished piece as you work, and separate i-cord, where you knit the cord on its own and sew it on afterward. Attached i-cord is faster and creates a stronger bond with your project. Separate i-cord gives you more control over the cord's appearance and lets you work it at a different time or in a different location.
Most knitters choose attached i-cord for edges that need to be sturdy—like the perimeter of a blanket or the hem of a garment. Separate i-cord works well when you want to add edging to a finished piece without unraveling it, or when you're experimenting with color and want to be able to remove it if you change your mind.
How to Knit Attached I-Cord Edging
Start by picking up stitches along the edge of your finished piece. The number of stitches you pick up depends on the length of the edge and the yarn weight, but a common ratio is one stitch per row on a vertical edge or one stitch per stitch on a horizontal edge. Use a circular needle or long straight needle so you have room to work.
Cast on three or four stitches at the beginning of your picked-up stitches using the cable cast-on or long-tail cast-on method. These stitches will become your i-cord. Knit these three or four stitches, then knit the next stitch from your picked-up stitches together with the last stitch of your i-cord (using a knit two together decrease). Slip all the i-cord stitches back to the beginning of the needle without turning it around, and repeat.
The key step is the slip: after you decrease, move all your i-cord stitches to the far end of your needle (or to a cable needle if you're using straight needles), then slide them back to the working end without turning the needle. This creates the tube. Knit across the i-cord stitches again, decrease with the next picked-up stitch, and repeat until you've worked all the way around the edge.
How to Knit Separate I-Cord and Attach It Later
Cast on three or four stitches using any cast-on method. Using a cable needle or double-pointed needle, knit across these stitches. Slip all the stitches to the far end of the needle without turning, push them back to the working end, and knit across again. Repeat this process—knit, slip to the far end, knit again—until your cord is as long as the edge you want to cover.
Bind off all stitches when the cord reaches the right length. You now have a finished i-cord ready to attach. Pin it to the edge of your project, positioning it so it sits just outside the edge stitches. Using a tapestry needle and matching yarn, sew the cord to the project using a whip stitch or mattress stitch, working through the bumps on the back of the cord and into the edge stitches of your piece.
Picking Up Stitches for Your Edging
The number of stitches you pick up determines how the edging sits. If you pick up too few, the edging will bunch and pucker. If you pick up too many, it will flare out. For a vertical edge (like the side of a sweater), pick up roughly three stitches for every four rows. For a horizontal edge (like a cast-on or bind-off), pick up one stitch in each stitch.
Use a crochet hook or a needle one size smaller than your working needle to pick up stitches. Insert the hook or needle through the edge stitch from front to back, wrap your yarn around, and pull through. Work along the entire edge, spacing your picked-up stitches evenly. If you're working around a corner, pick up an extra stitch or two at the corner to prevent it from pulling tight.
Fixing Common I-Cord Edging Problems
If your i-cord looks twisted or loose, you may be slipping the stitches too roughly or not pulling the yarn tight enough after the slip. Slow down and make sure you're pulling the working yarn snug after each slip—this tightens the tube and keeps it from looking sloppy. If the edging is puckering, you've picked up too few stitches; unravel and pick up more densely along the edge.
If the i-cord is flaring outward instead of lying flat, you've picked up too many stitches. You can prevent this on future projects by counting your edge stitches and calculating the pickup ratio before you start. If your edging is already attached and the problem is minor, blocking (wet-blocking or steam-blocking, depending on your fiber) can often smooth out puckering or flaring.
Yarn and Needle Choices for I-Cord Edging
I-cord edging works with any yarn weight, but thinner yarns (fingering, sport, or DK weight) create a delicate, refined look, while bulkier yarns make the edging more prominent. You can use the same yarn as your project or switch to a contrasting color or texture. If you switch yarns, make sure the new yarn is compatible with your project in terms of fiber content and care instructions—you don't want to knit a wool edging onto a cotton project if they have different washing requirements.
Use needles one or two sizes smaller than the needles you used for your main project. Smaller needles create a tighter, more defined tube. If your i-cord stitches are too loose or the tube looks floppy, go down another needle size. If the stitches are so tight you can barely work them, go up half a size.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I add i-cord edging to a project that's already completely finished?
Yes. Knit the i-cord separately and sew it on using a tapestry needle and whip stitch. This method takes longer than attached i-cord but works on any finished piece. Pin the cord in place first to make sure it sits where you want it before you commit to sewing.
What if I don't have a cable needle?
You can use a spare double-pointed needle, a toothpick, or even a piece of scrap yarn. The purpose is just to hold the stitches while you slip them to the far end of your working needle. Any object that will hold three or four stitches temporarily will work.
How do I turn a corner with i-cord edging?
At a corner, pick up an extra stitch or two in the corner stitch itself. This gives you more stitches to work with and prevents the corner from pulling tight. Some knitters also work an extra row or two of i-cord at the corner without decreasing, which creates a small bulge that eases the turn.
Can I use i-cord edging on curved edges like armholes?
Yes, but you'll need to pick up stitches more carefully. Curved edges are trickier because the stitch count isn't as predictable. Pick up stitches slowly and evenly, and be prepared to adjust as you go. If the edging starts to pucker, you may need to skip a picked-up stitch occasionally to ease the curve.
What's the difference between i-cord edging and a regular bind-off?
A regular bind-off closes off your stitches but leaves a flat edge. I-cord edging creates a rounded, three-dimensional frame around your piece. It's more decorative and more durable, especially on edges that get a lot of handling or wear.