Circular needles and double-pointed needles are the two main tools for knitting in the round

Circular needles are two needle tips connected by a flexible cable. You cast on all your stitches onto one needle tip, then push them around the cable and work in a spiral. Double-pointed needles (often called DPNs) are a set of four or five short needles with points on both ends. You divide your stitches among three or four needles and use the fifth as your working needle, moving around the group in a circle. Both methods produce seamless tubes — hats, sleeves, socks — without a seam running up the side.

Circular needles work best for larger projects like sweater bodies and the main part of hats. Double-pointed needles work best for small circumferences like sock cuffs, hat crowns, and the tops of mittens, where circular needles become too loose to control. Many knitters use both: they start a hat on circular needles and switch to DPNs when the crown gets too small.

Key Takeaways

  • Circular needles have two tips connected by a cable and work well for projects with a large circumference, like sweater bodies and most of a hat.
  • Double-pointed needles are short needles with points on both ends, used in sets of four or five, and work best for small circumferences like sock cuffs and hat crowns.
  • To start on circular needles, cast on all stitches onto one tip, then push them around the cable and join to work in a spiral without twisting.
  • To start on double-pointed needles, divide your stitches evenly among three or four needles, then use the fifth needle to work the first stitch and begin the circle.
  • The most common mistake is twisting your cast-on before you join, which creates a permanent spiral in your fabric that cannot be fixed.

How to join and start on circular needles

Cast all your stitches onto the circular needle using the long-tail method or your preferred cast-on. The stitches will bunch up on the cable. Lay the needle flat on a table and look at your cast-on edge — make sure it runs in a straight line around the circle and does not spiral or twist. This is the most important step. If your cast-on twists before you join, the twist will be permanent and you will have to pull out and start over.

Once you have confirmed the cast-on is straight, hold the needle so the working yarn hangs from the right needle tip. Insert the right needle tip into the first stitch on the left needle tip (the stitch closest to the left tip, not the one closest to the cable). Knit this stitch. You have now joined in the round. Continue knitting every stitch, and the stitches will spiral around the cable in a tube. Place a stitch marker on the right needle after you knit the first stitch so you know where each round begins.

How to join and start on double-pointed needles

Cast all your stitches onto one double-pointed needle using your preferred method. Divide the stitches evenly among three needles. For example, if you are casting on 60 stitches, put 20 stitches on each of three needles. Arrange the three needles in a triangle on your table, with the cast-on edges all facing the same direction (toward the center of the triangle). Check that none of the needles are twisted — the cast-on edge should form a straight line, not a spiral.

Pick up the fourth needle (your working needle) and the working yarn. Insert the working needle into the first stitch on the first needle (the stitch closest to the needle tip). Knit this stitch. You have now joined in the round. Continue knitting all the stitches on the first needle. When you reach the end of the first needle, that needle becomes your new working needle, and you use it to knit the stitches on the second needle. Keep going around the triangle. Place a stitch marker after the first stitch so you know where each round begins.

Tension and loose stitches at the joins

The stitches where you join on circular needles are often loose because the working yarn has to travel from one needle tip to the other. The first few stitches of each round may look sloppy. This is normal and tightens up as you work more rounds. Do not pull the yarn extra hard on these stitches — you will distort them. Instead, work a few extra rounds and the tension will even out on its own.

On double-pointed needles, the join between needles can also be loose. Some knitters tighten the first stitch on each new needle by pulling the working yarn snug before they knit it. Others work the first two stitches of each needle a little tighter. Experiment to see what feels natural. After five or six rounds, the loose stitches disappear into the fabric and become invisible.

Choosing the right needle size for your project

Circular needles come in many cable lengths: 16 inches, 24 inches, 32 inches, and longer. The cable length should be shorter than the circumference of your project. If the cable is too long, your stitches will be stretched and hard to work. If the cable is too short, the stitches will bunch and you will struggle to move them. A good rule is to choose a cable length that is about 2 inches shorter than your project's circumference.

Double-pointed needles come in standard lengths (usually 5 to 7 inches) and are sized by the circumference they work best for. A set marked for small circumference (like sock needles) works for projects around 6 to 8 inches around. A set marked for larger circumference works for projects 12 inches around or more. If you are unsure, buy a set of bamboo or wooden DPNs in a medium size — they are inexpensive and work for most small projects.

Common mistakes and how to fix them

The most common mistake is twisting your cast-on before you join. If you notice the twist after you have knitted a few rounds, you must pull out and start over — there is no way to fix it once you have joined. Always lay your needle flat and check the cast-on edge before you knit the first stitch.

Another common mistake is dropping a stitch at the join between needles on double-pointed needles. This happens because the stitches are loose and straightforward to miss. Count your stitches after every round for the first few rounds until you are confident. If you drop a stitch, pick it up with a crochet hook and pull it back up through the rows above it, the same way you would fix a dropped stitch in flat knitting.

A third mistake is using needles that are the wrong size for your project. If your circular needle cable is too long, your stitches will be stretched and your fabric will look loose and uneven. If your DPNs are too large for your circumference, you will have trouble controlling the stitches. Start with a needle size that feels comfortable in your hands and matches the circumference of your project.

When to switch from circular needles to double-pointed needles

Many patterns call for you to start a project on circular needles and switch to double-pointed needles when the circumference gets too small. This usually happens when you are decreasing for a hat crown or the top of a mitten. When your circular needle cable becomes too long for your stitches (usually around 40 to 50 stitches remaining), it is time to switch.

To switch, knit until you have worked all the stitches on the circular needle. Then divide the remaining stitches evenly among three double-pointed needles and continue knitting in the round using the fourth needle as your working needle. You do not need to bind off or cast on again — you straightforward move the stitches from one tool to the other and keep going. This is one of the advantages of knitting in the round: you can change tools without interrupting your work.

Frequently Asked Questions

What does "knitting in the round" mean?

Knitting in the round means working in a spiral instead of back and forth in rows. You cast on all your stitches, join them into a circle, and knit around and around. This creates a seamless tube. Most hats, socks, and sweater bodies are knitted in the round.

Do I have to use circular needles or can I use DPNs for everything?

You can use DPNs for any project, but circular needles are easier for large circumferences because the cable distributes the weight of the stitches. DPNs are better for small circumferences because they are shorter and easier to control. Most knitters use both depending on the project size.

Why do my stitches look loose where I joined?

The first few stitches after the join are often loose because the working yarn travels from one needle tip to the other. This is normal and tightens up as you work more rounds. Do not pull the yarn extra hard — just keep knitting and the tension will even out.

What happens if I twist my cast-on before I join?

If you twist your cast-on, you will create a permanent spiral in your fabric that cannot be fixed. You must pull out all your stitches and start over. Always lay your needle flat and check that your cast-on edge runs straight around the circle before you knit the first stitch.

Can I use any circular needle cable length for my project?

No. The cable length should be shorter than your project's circumference, or your stitches will be stretched and hard to work. Choose a cable length about 2 inches shorter than your project's circumference. If your cable is too long, switch to double-pointed needles.