Knitting in the round creates seamless tubes and circles without seams

Knitting in the round means working in a continuous spiral instead of turning your work back and forth. You create a tube or circle by joining your cast-on stitches into a loop and working around and around. This method eliminates the seam you'd have if you knitted flat and sewed the edges together later. Hats, socks, sleeves, and sweaters are all easier to make this way because you see the right side of your work the entire time and never have to purl a row.

You have two main tools to choose from: circular needles (two needle tips connected by a cable) or double-pointed needles (a set of four or five short needles with points on both ends). Circular needles work best for larger projects with many stitches. Double-pointed needles work best for small circumferences like sock cuffs or hat crowns. Both methods use the same basic technique once your stitches are on the needles.

Key Takeaways

  • Cast on your stitches onto a circular needle or one double-pointed needle, then distribute them evenly across all needles before joining.
  • Mark your starting point with a stitch marker so you know where each round begins and ends.
  • Join your cast-on edge into a loop by knitting the first stitch of the round, being careful not to twist the stitches.
  • Work every round as a knit round (or follow your pattern) because you are always looking at the right side of the fabric.
  • Switch to double-pointed needles when your circular needle becomes too large for the remaining stitches, usually near the end of a hat or sock.

Setting up stitches on circular needles

Cast on the number of stitches your pattern calls for directly onto your circular needle using your preferred cast-on method. Long-tail cast-on and cable cast-on both work well. Count your stitches carefully before you join—a miscount now means frogging (ripping out) later. Lay the needle on a flat surface and look at the cast-on edge. Make sure the stitches form a single line around the needle with no twists or loops crossing over each other. A twist at the cast-on edge cannot be fixed once you join; you will have to start over.

Slide all your stitches toward the needle tips so they are not bunched up on the cable. This makes it easier to see what you are doing when you join. If your cast-on stitches are very tight, gently stretch the cable to loosen them slightly. The stitches should sit comfortably on the needle without sliding off, but not so tight that you cannot work them.

Joining your cast-on edge without twisting

Place a stitch marker on your working yarn (the yarn attached to your ball) right after your last cast-on stitch. This marks the end of your cast-on row and the beginning of your first round. Pick up your needle and bring the two needle tips together so the cast-on edge forms a circle. The working yarn should come from the needle tip on your right hand.

Knit the first stitch of the round using the working yarn. Pull the yarn snug as you work this stitch so the gap between your last cast-on stitch and your first knit stitch closes. This is the moment your stitches officially join into a loop. Keep the stitch marker on your needle as you work; it will slide along the cable and mark the start of each new round. After you knit the first stitch, continue knitting around the circle. You are now knitting in the round.

Working rounds on circular needles

Once you have joined, knit every stitch of every round unless your pattern tells you otherwise. Because you are always facing the right side of your work, you never purl a row. This is different from flat knitting, where you alternate knit rows and purl rows. If your pattern says "knit 1, purl 1 in the round," you will knit 1 stitch, then purl 1 stitch, then repeat. The pattern instructions account for the fact that you are working in a spiral.

Work at a steady pace and keep your tension even. The stitches on the cable should move smoothly as you work. If you feel resistance or the cable is pulling, you may have twisted the cast-on edge. Stop and check. If there is a twist, you will need to rip out and rejoin. If the stitches feel loose and floppy, you may be pulling too hard on the working yarn. Relax your grip slightly and let the stitches sit naturally on the needle.

Count your rounds by watching your stitch marker pass the needle tip. Each time the marker comes around to your right needle tip, you have completed one full round. This is much easier than counting rows in flat knitting because you can see the rounds stack up in a spiral.

Switching to double-pointed needles for small circumferences

When your circular needle becomes too large for your remaining stitches—usually when you are decreasing toward the crown of a hat or the toe of a sock—switch to a set of double-pointed needles. These are typically 4 or 5 inches long with points on both ends. A set usually comes with four or five needles. You will use three or four to hold stitches and one to work with.

Divide your stitches evenly across three or four needles. If you have 60 stitches and are using four needles, put 15 stitches on each needle. Slide the stitches toward the center of each needle so they do not fall off the blunt end. Tie a piece of yarn or use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of the round. Knit the first stitch using the empty needle, pulling the yarn snug to close any gaps between needles. Continue knitting around, using the empty needle to work the stitches on the next needle. As you finish each needle, it becomes the empty needle you use next.

Double-pointed needles feel awkward at first because you have multiple needle tips to manage. Work slowly and keep your tension even. The gaps between needles are common trouble spots where stitches can loosen. Pull your working yarn a little tighter as you transition from one needle to the next, but not so tight that you create a visible ladder of loose stitches.

Fixing common mistakes in circular knitting

The most common mistake is a twisted cast-on edge. If you notice a twist after you have joined, you must rip out and rejoin. Prevent this by laying your needle flat before joining and checking that the cast-on edge forms a single loop with no crossovers. A second common mistake is loose stitches at the join. The gap between your last cast-on stitch and your first knit stitch should close as you work the first round. If it stays loose, pull your working yarn tighter as you knit the first few stitches of the next round.

A third mistake is accidentally knitting into the cast-on edge instead of the live stitches. This happens when your cast-on stitches are bunched up and hard to see. Spread your stitches out on the needle before you join, and make sure you are picking up the loop that sits on the needle, not the bumps of the cast-on edge below it. If you do knit into the cast-on edge, you will see an extra row of stitches. Rip back to the join and start again.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do I have to use a stitch marker to track the start of each round?

No, but it makes counting rounds much easier. Without a marker, you have to count the spiral visually or keep a tally on paper. A marker costs almost nothing and slides along the cable as you work. Place it right after your last cast-on stitch before you join, and it will mark the start of every round automatically.

What size circular needle should I use for my project?

Use a needle length that fits your stitch count comfortably. If you have 80 stitches, a 16-inch circular needle works well. If you have 120 stitches, a 24-inch needle is better. The stitches should stretch around the cable without bunching, but the needle should not be so long that it feels floppy. Many knitters own needles in several lengths for this reason.

Can I knit in the round with straight needles?

No. Straight needles have a point on one end and a stopper on the other, so you cannot work in a continuous circle. You would have to knit flat and sew a seam. Circular needles and double-pointed needles are the two tools designed for seamless in-the-round knitting.

Why do I have loose stitches between my double-pointed needles?

The transition between needles is a natural weak point because you are changing tools. Pull your working yarn slightly tighter as you knit the first stitch on a new needle. This closes the gap. If the looseness is severe, you can tighten those stitches on the next round by pulling the working yarn snug as you work them.

How do I know when to switch from circular needles to double-pointed needles?

Switch when the circular needle becomes uncomfortable to work with—usually when you have fewer stitches than the needle length. For a 16-inch circular needle, this is often around 40 stitches or fewer. If you are decreasing toward a hat crown or sock toe and the needle starts to feel too large, it is time to move to double-pointed needles.