What an increase does and when you need one

An increase is a deliberate addition of one or more stitches to your working row. You use increases to make your knitting wider — to shape sleeves, create lace patterns, or expand a flat piece into something three-dimensional like a hat crown or the body of a sweater. Without increases, every row you knit stays the same width.

Most patterns tell you exactly where to increase and which method to use. If you are following a pattern, look for the abbreviation inc or M1 (make one) in the instructions. The method matters because different increases create different visual effects: some are nearly invisible, others are decorative.

Key Takeaways

  • A knit increase adds one or more stitches to your row, making your fabric wider at that point.
  • The three most common methods are knit front and back (KFB), make one left (M1L), and make one right (M1R), each creating a slightly different look.
  • KFB is the easiest method and works well for beginners, though it creates a small visible bump.
  • M1 increases are nearly invisible and are preferred in patterns where the shaping should not show.
  • Always count your stitches after increasing to make sure you added exactly the number your pattern called for.

Knit front and back (KFB) — the easiest method

KFB is the simplest increase and the best one to learn first. You work into the same stitch twice before dropping it off the needle, creating two stitches where there was one.

Insert your right needle through the front loop of the next stitch on your left needle, as if you were about to knit normally. Wrap the yarn and pull the new loop through — but do not drop the stitch off the left needle yet. Now insert your right needle through the back loop of that same stitch (from right to left), wrap the yarn again, and pull through. Now drop the stitch off the left needle. You now have two new stitches on your right needle.

KFB creates a small horizontal bump at the base of the increase, which is visible but not objectionable in many projects. It is fast and reliable, and you do not need to count stitches between increases the way you do with M1.

Make one left (M1L) — invisible increases

M1 increases are worked between two stitches rather than into a stitch itself, which makes them nearly invisible. M1L (make one left) leans slightly to the left and is the version most patterns call for.

Work to the point where you need the increase. Insert your left needle from left to right under the horizontal strand of yarn that runs between the stitch you just worked and the next stitch on the left needle — the strand that connects them. Lift that strand onto your left needle. Now knit into the back loop of that lifted strand (not the front loop). This creates one new stitch without a visible hole or bump.

The key is lifting the strand correctly: you are not picking up a stitch that already exists, you are lifting the connecting thread between two stitches. If you pick up the wrong strand, you will create a hole instead of an invisible increase.

Make one right (M1R) — the mirror of M1L

M1R (make one right) is identical to M1L except it leans to the right. Use it when a pattern calls for it, or when you are increasing on both sides of a center stitch and want the increases to mirror each other.

Work to the increase point. Insert your left needle from right to left under the horizontal strand between the stitch you just worked and the next stitch. Lift that strand onto your left needle. Now knit into the front loop of that lifted strand (the opposite of M1L). This creates one new stitch that leans right.

The only difference from M1L is the direction you insert the needle and which loop you knit into. Both methods are invisible; the lean is purely visual and matters most in lace or decorative shaping.

Increasing multiple stitches in one row

Some patterns ask you to increase several stitches across a single row — for example, "increase 12 stitches evenly across the row." This means you add 12 stitches total, spread out so the increases are roughly the same distance apart.

Divide the number of stitches on your needle by the number of increases you need to make. If you have 60 stitches and need to increase 12 stitches, you increase roughly every 5 stitches. Count as you go: knit 5 stitches, increase 1, knit 5, increase 1, and so on. You do not need to be exact — being off by one stitch in either direction is normal and invisible in the finished fabric.

Common mistakes and how to avoid them

The most frequent error is dropping the stitch too early when doing KFB. You must work into the front loop, then the back loop, before dropping the original stitch. If you drop it after the first loop, you will have only one new stitch instead of two.

With M1 increases, the most common mistake is picking up the wrong strand. The strand you want is the one that runs horizontally between two stitches — not the vertical leg of a stitch itself. If you are unsure, look at where your working yarn is coming from. The strand you need is the one closest to your working yarn.

Another mistake is forgetting to count your stitches after increasing. If a pattern says you should have 72 stitches after increasing and you have 70, you missed one increase. It is much easier to fix this on the current row than to discover it three rows later.

When to use each method

Use KFB when you are learning, when the pattern does not specify a method, or when you want a decorative visible increase. It is also the fastest method and works well in projects where the increase will be hidden by seaming or ribbing.

Use M1L and M1R when the pattern calls for them, or when you are shaping something where the increases should be invisible — like the sides of a fitted sweater or the crown of a hat. If a pattern says "M1" without specifying left or right, M1L is the standard choice.

In lace patterns, the pattern designer has usually chosen a specific increase method to create a particular visual effect. Follow the pattern exactly in these cases, because the increase is part of the design.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the difference between KFB and M1?

KFB works into one stitch twice and creates a visible bump. M1 lifts the strand between two stitches and is nearly invisible. KFB is easier for beginners; M1 is preferred in fitted garments where shaping should not show.

Can I use KFB if the pattern says M1?

Technically yes — both add one stitch — but the result will look different. The visible bump from KFB may not match the designer's intent. If the pattern specifies M1, use M1 for the look the designer planned.

How do I know which loop to knit into for M1?

For M1L, knit into the back loop of the lifted strand. For M1R, knit into the front loop. If you knit into the wrong loop, you will create a hole instead of an invisible increase. Practice on a swatch until the motion feels natural.

What if I increase in the wrong place?

If you notice the mistake on the same row, drop back to that stitch, undo it, and redo it in the correct spot. If you have already moved past it, you can usually leave it — one stitch in the wrong place is rarely visible in the finished piece. If it bothers you, you can always frog (rip out) back to that row and start over.

Do I need to increase on every row?

No. Most patterns increase on specific rows — often every other row or every fourth row — depending on how much shaping is needed. Follow your pattern's instructions for when to increase.