What an increase stitch does and when you need it

An increase stitch adds a new loop to your needle, making your fabric wider. You use increases when a pattern calls for them — usually to shape sleeves, necklines, or the body of a garment. Without increases, your piece stays the same width from bottom to top.

Most patterns tell you exactly where to increase and how many stitches to add. The three most common methods are the knit front and back (KFB), the yarn over, and the make one (M1). Each one looks slightly different in the finished fabric and sits in a different spot on your needle, so the pattern you are following will specify which to use.

Learning all three gives you the flexibility to follow any pattern. The KFB is the easiest to learn first because it uses only the stitch already on your needle. The yarn over is the fastest. The M1 is the tidiest and most invisible in the final piece.

Key Takeaways

  • The knit front and back (KFB) increase works by knitting into the same stitch twice — once through the front loop and once through the back loop — before slipping it off the needle.
  • A yarn over increase is made by wrapping yarn around the needle between two stitches, which also creates a small decorative hole in the fabric.
  • The make one (M1) increase is worked between two stitches by lifting the horizontal strand of yarn that runs between them and knitting into it.
  • Different patterns call for different increases depending on where the increase sits and whether a decorative hole is wanted.
  • Practicing each method on a small swatch before starting a full project helps you get the tension and rhythm right.

Knit front and back (KFB) — the easiest method

The KFB increase is the simplest because you work entirely with the stitch already on your left needle. Insert your right needle through the front of the stitch as if you were going to knit it normally. Wrap the yarn and pull the loop through, but do not slip the stitch off the left needle yet. Instead, insert your right needle through the back of the same stitch, wrap the yarn again, and pull a second loop through. Now slip the original stitch off the left needle. You have turned one stitch into two.

The KFB creates a small bump or bar at the base of the new stitch, which is visible in the finished fabric. This makes it useful for decorative increases or when the pattern specifically calls for it. The bump sits on the right side of the fabric, so if you want the increase to be less noticeable, you can work it on a purl row instead, where the bump ends up on the wrong side.

Practice the motion slowly: knit the front, keep the stitch on the needle, knit the back, slip off. Once you have the rhythm, you can work KFB increases quickly across a row.

Yarn over — the fastest increase

A yarn over (often written as YO in patterns) is made by wrapping the yarn around the needle between two stitches. The exact motion depends on what stitches come before and after the yarn over, but the basic idea is the same: you create a new loop by moving the yarn to the working position without knitting a stitch.

If you are working in stockinette stitch (knit on the right side, purl on the wrong side), a yarn over between two knit stitches is straightforward: knit one stitch, bring the yarn to the front of the work, insert the needle into the next stitch as if to knit, and knit it. The yarn that is now in front of the needle creates the new loop. On a purl row, purl one stitch, take the yarn to the back, purl the next stitch, and the yarn wraps around the needle the same way.

The yarn over creates a small hole in the fabric, which is why it is often used in lace patterns or when a decorative increase is wanted. If your pattern does not mention yarn overs and you see YO written out, it is calling for this method. The hole is intentional and part of the design.

Make one (M1) — the invisible increase

The make one increase is worked between two stitches and is the least visible in the finished fabric. To work an M1, insert your left needle from front to back under the horizontal strand of yarn that runs between the stitch you just knitted and the next stitch on the left needle. Knit into this lifted strand through the back loop. This twists the new stitch and closes the hole that would otherwise appear.

The M1 sits exactly where you place it — between two stitches — which makes it useful for shaping that needs to be precise. Because it is nearly invisible, it is the standard increase for fitted garments like sweaters and cardigans. Patterns often call for M1 when shaping sleeves or waistlines.

The main challenge with M1 is finding the horizontal strand, especially if your tension is tight. The strand is easiest to see if you look at your work from the side, between the two needles. Once you spot it, lift it onto the left needle and knit through the back loop. If you knit through the front loop instead, you will create a twisted stitch that looks different from the rest of your work.

How to choose which increase to use

Your pattern will usually tell you which increase to use by writing KFB, YO, or M1 in the instructions. If it just says "increase one stitch" without specifying the method, M1 is the safest choice because it is the least visible and works well in most situations.

If the pattern shows a schematic with a decorative element or mentions lace, yarn overs are probably what you need. If the pattern is for a fitted garment and does not mention a decorative effect, M1 is standard. KFB is less common in modern patterns but appears in some vintage designs and in patterns where the bump of the increase is part of the look.

When you are learning, pick one method and practice it on a small swatch until the motion feels natural. Then move to the next method. Switching between all three in a single project can be frustrating until you have muscle memory for each one.

Common mistakes and how to fix them

The most common mistake with KFB is slipping the stitch off the needle too early — before you have knitted both the front and the back. This leaves you with only one new stitch instead of two. The fix is to slow down and check that you have two loops on the right needle before you slip the original stitch off the left needle.

With yarn overs, the mistake is forgetting to bring the yarn to the front before knitting the next stitch, which means you have wrapped the yarn but not created a new loop. The hole will not appear, and you will have the same number of stitches you started with. If this happens, you can usually catch it on the next row and add the stitch back by picking up the missed yarn over.

The M1 mistake is knitting through the front loop instead of the back loop, which twists the stitch and makes it look different from the surrounding stitches. If you do this, the increase will still work, but it will be visible. On your next project, remember to knit through the back loop to keep the stitch aligned with the rest of your work.

Practicing increases on a swatch

Before you work increases on a full project, spend 15 to 20 minutes practicing on a small swatch. Cast on 20 stitches and knit a few rows in stockinette stitch to establish your tension. Then work a row of increases — for example, knit one, KFB, knit one, KFB, and so on across the row. Knit a few more rows, then try a row of yarn overs or M1 increases.

A practice swatch shows you how each increase looks in your own tension and helps you build the muscle memory for the motion. It also gives you a reference to look back at when you are working on a project and need to remember which method creates which effect. Keep your swatches in a folder or notebook so you can compare them later.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the difference between a left-leaning and right-leaning increase?

A right-leaning increase (like M1R or KFB) slants to the right in the finished fabric, while a left-leaning increase (like M1L) slants to the left. Patterns that call for shaping on both sides of a piece often use both types so the increases are symmetrical. M1R is worked by knitting through the back loop of the lifted strand, and M1L is worked by knitting through the front loop.

Can I use any increase method in any pattern?

Not always. Yarn overs create a hole, so they are not suitable for patterns that do not want a decorative effect. M1 is the most versatile and works in almost any situation. KFB creates a visible bump, so it is best used only when the pattern calls for it or when the bump is part of the design. Always follow the pattern's instructions for the best result.

What if I accidentally skip an increase in the middle of a row?

If you notice it right away, drop back to that point, pick up the stitch, and work the increase. If you do not notice until later, you can usually keep going — one missed increase will not ruin the fit of most garments. On your next project, use stitch markers to mark where increases should happen so you do not forget them.

Do I need to increase on every row?

No. Most patterns space increases out over several rows. A typical shaping instruction might say "increase one stitch every other row" or "increase one stitch every fourth row." The pattern will tell you exactly when to increase. Increasing too often makes the fabric flare out quickly, while spacing increases further apart creates a gentler slope.

Why does my increase look twisted or uneven?

Twisted stitches usually mean you knitted through the wrong loop (front instead of back, or vice versa). Uneven stitches often mean your tension changed when you worked the increase. Practice keeping the same tension on the new stitch as on the stitches around it. It takes a few projects to make increases look completely even, so do not worry if they are not perfect on your first try.