What M1 means and when to use it
M1 stands for "make one" and is a method of increasing stitches by creating a new stitch from the horizontal strand of yarn between two existing stitches. Unlike yarn-over increases, which leave a visible hole, M1 creates a nearly invisible increase that blends into your fabric. You will see M1 called for in patterns when the designer wants the increase to be structurally sound and visually clean.
M1 appears most often in shaping instructions — increasing for sleeve caps, raglan armholes, or waist shaping in fitted garments. It also shows up in lace patterns where the increase pairs with decreases to create a balanced design. The stitch sits slightly to the left or right depending on which direction you work it, so patterns sometimes specify M1L (left-leaning) or M1R (right-leaning) to control the angle.
Key Takeaways
- M1 is worked by lifting the horizontal strand between two stitches onto your needle and knitting through the back loop to twist it closed.
- M1L (left-leaning) and M1R (right-leaning) are the two directions; patterns tell you which one to use based on where the increase should slant.
- The increase happens on the working row itself, not on a purl row, so you need to know which direction you are working before you start.
- Practicing M1 on a swatch before working it into a garment helps you keep tension even and avoid accidentally creating a hole.
How to work M1R (right-leaning increase)
M1R is the most common version and creates an increase that leans slightly to the right. Hold your needles in working position with the left needle in your left hand and the right needle in your right hand. Locate the horizontal strand of yarn that runs between the stitch you just worked (on the right needle) and the next stitch waiting on the left needle.
Insert the tip of your left needle under this horizontal strand from front to back, lifting it onto the needle. You now have a new loop on your left needle. Knit through the back loop of this lifted strand using your right needle and working yarn. Knitting through the back loop twists the stitch closed so it does not create a hole. Slip the twisted stitch onto your right needle. You have now increased by one stitch.
How to work M1L (left-leaning increase)
M1L creates an increase that leans slightly to the left and uses the same horizontal strand but a different insertion method. Again, locate the strand between the stitch you just worked and the next stitch on the left needle. This time, insert your left needle under the strand from back to front, lifting it onto the needle.
Knit through the front loop of this lifted strand using your right needle and working yarn. The front-loop insertion (rather than back-loop) creates the left-leaning slant. Slip the new stitch onto your right needle. The difference between M1L and M1R is only the direction you insert the needle and which loop you knit through — the strand itself is always the same one.
Common mistakes and how to avoid them
The most frequent error is knitting through the front loop on an M1R or the back loop on an M1L, which reverses the lean and creates a twisted appearance. Remember: M1R uses the back loop, M1L uses the front loop. Write this on a sticky note and tape it to your project bag if you work both directions in the same pattern.
A second mistake is picking up the wrong strand. The strand you need always sits between the stitch you just completed and the stitch waiting on the left needle — never the strand on the far side of the next stitch. If you pick up the wrong strand, you will create a gap instead of a clean increase. Slow down and look directly at the needle tips to confirm you have the right strand before lifting it.
Tension problems are also common. If your M1 stitches look loose or uneven compared to the rest of your knitting, you may be pulling too hard on the working yarn after you complete the increase. Work the M1 at the same tension as your regular stitches, and let the twisted loop sit naturally on the needle without forcing it tight.
When to use M1L versus M1R in your patterns
Patterns usually tell you which direction to use, but understanding why helps you read a pattern more confidently. When increases are paired on either side of a center stitch (common in raglan shaping), M1L on the left side and M1R on the right side create a balanced, symmetrical look because each increase leans away from the center.
In single-increase rows, the direction matters less for fit but still affects appearance. Many knitters choose M1R as their default because it is slightly easier to execute consistently. If a pattern does not specify a direction and you are working a single increase, M1R is a safe choice. The key is consistency — use the same direction every time you see M1 in a row unless the pattern tells you otherwise.
Practicing M1 on a test swatch
Before working M1 into a garment, spend ten minutes practicing on a small swatch using yarn and needles similar to your project. Cast on 15 stitches and knit 4 rows in stockinette stitch (knit on right-side rows, purl on wrong-side rows). On row 5, knit 5 stitches, work M1R, knit 5 stitches, work M1L, knit to the end.
Purl the next row, then repeat the increase row. After a few repeats, you will feel the motion become automatic and your tension will even out. This small investment prevents frustration when you are working on a sweater or shawl where mistakes are harder to fix. Keep the swatch and refer to it if you forget the motion weeks later when you return to your project.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use M1 on a purl row?
Yes, but the motion changes. On a purl row, you still lift the horizontal strand between stitches, but you purl through the back or front loop instead of knitting. M1R on a purl row means purling through the front loop; M1L means purling through the back loop — the opposite of knit rows. Many patterns avoid this by placing all increases on knit rows to keep the instructions simpler.
What is the difference between M1 and yarn over?
Yarn over (YO) creates a visible hole and is often used intentionally in lace patterns. M1 creates a closed stitch with no hole and is used when you want the increase to be invisible. Both add a stitch, but they look and feel completely different in the finished fabric.
Why does my M1 look twisted?
You are likely knitting through the wrong loop. Double-check that M1R goes through the back loop and M1L goes through the front loop. If the stitch still looks twisted after you correct this, your tension may be too tight — relax slightly on the working yarn after you complete the increase.
Do I count the M1 stitch as one of my stitches for the row?
Yes. When a pattern says "knit 5, M1, knit 5," you have 11 stitches total on that row (5 + 1 new + 5). The M1 creates the extra stitch; you do not knit an additional stitch after it unless the pattern tells you to.
Can I use M1 to fix a dropped stitch?
No. M1 is for intentional increases during knitting. A dropped stitch needs to be picked up with a crochet hook or by reknitting that section. M1 will not repair the gap left by a dropped stitch.