Knitting on the wrong side means working from the back of your fabric instead of the front, and it reverses how your stitches look without changing how you make them.
When you knit on the wrong side, the bumpy side of stockinette stitch faces you instead of the smooth side. Your knit stitches look like purl stitches, and your purl stitches look like knit stitches. The pattern still grows — you are still inserting your needle, wrapping yarn, and pulling loops through — but the visual result is flipped.
This matters because some patterns ask you to work wrong-side rows deliberately. Reversible patterns, brioche knitting, and colorwork designs often require you to work from the back. If you do not know which stitches to make when you are facing the wrong side, you will either break the pattern or spend the whole row confused about what the instructions mean.
Key Takeaways
- On wrong-side rows, knit stitches appear as purls and purls appear as knits, so you must reverse your stitch choices to keep the pattern correct.
- The simplest method is to read your pattern row backwards and swap every knit instruction for a purl and every purl for a knit.
- Turning your work around so you face the right side lets you work the row normally, but adds extra turning and can create tension problems.
- Markers and stitch counters help you track where you are when working wrong-side rows, especially in complex patterns.
- Practice on a small swatch before working wrong-side rows into a large project so you can see how the stitches actually look.
Reading the pattern backwards and swapping stitches
The most direct approach is to read your written pattern from right to left instead of left to right. If the pattern says "knit 3, purl 2, knit 1," you read it as "knit 1, purl 2, knit 3" — and then you swap every instruction. Knit becomes purl, purl becomes knit. So you work "purl 1, knit 2, purl 3."
This works because a knit stitch viewed from the wrong side looks like a purl, and a purl viewed from the wrong side looks like a knit. By reversing both the order and the stitch type, you create the same visual pattern on the right side of the finished fabric.
Write this out on paper or in a notes app before you start the row, especially if the pattern is long or complex. Rewriting takes two minutes and prevents mistakes that take twenty minutes to fix. Many knitters keep a small notebook beside their needles for exactly this reason.
Turning your work to face the right side
Some knitters turn the entire piece around so they are always looking at the right side of the fabric. This means you work every row the way the pattern is written — no swapping, no reversing. You straightforward rotate your work 180 degrees before each wrong-side row.
The downside is that turning adds time and can create uneven tension at the edges. Your first and last stitches may look loose or tight if you are not careful about how firmly you pull the yarn when you turn. This method also does not work well for circular needles or when you are working in the round.
This approach works best for small projects or when you are still learning to read patterns. Once you are comfortable with the stitch swap, reading backwards is usually faster.
Using markers to track your place
Place a stitch marker at the start of each wrong-side row so you know which direction you are reading. Some knitters use one color for right-side rows and another for wrong-side rows. This visual cue takes only a second to glance at but prevents you from accidentally reading the row in the wrong direction.
For patterns with repeats, place markers between each repeat. This breaks the row into smaller chunks and makes it easier to spot mistakes before you have worked too far. If you drop a stitch or miscount, you catch it within a few stitches instead of discovering it three rows later.
A row counter also helps. Click it each time you finish a wrong-side row so you always know which row you are on. This is especially useful in patterns where wrong-side rows are not every other row — for example, in some colorwork designs where you might work two or three right-side rows in a row.
Practicing on a swatch first
Knit a small practice swatch using the same yarn and needles you plan to use for your project. Work a straightforward pattern that includes both knit and purl stitches — stockinette stitch with a few purl columns is ideal. Work several rows on the right side, then flip the piece and work a few rows on the wrong side using the stitch-swap method.
Look at both sides of the swatch when you are done. You will see exactly how the stitches appear from each direction and whether your tension stayed even. This takes fifteen minutes and saves you from frogging an entire sweater sleeve later.
Keep the swatch. Pin it to your project notes or take a photo. When you start a new project with wrong-side rows, you can refer back to it and remember how the stitches should look.
Common mistakes when working wrong-side rows
The most common error is forgetting to swap stitches and working the pattern exactly as written. This creates a mirror image of what you intended. You will notice when ready when you flip the piece over — the pattern will be backwards or upside down. If you catch it within a row or two, you can usually frog back and fix it. If you do not notice until you are several rows in, you have a bigger problem.
The second mistake is reading the row in the wrong direction. If your pattern says "knit 3, purl 2," and you read it left to right instead of right to left, you are working the stitches in the wrong order. The pattern will not line up with the rows below it. Again, this is usually obvious within a few stitches, so check your work frequently.
Tension changes are the third issue. Many knitters pull too tightly on the first stitch of a wrong-side row because they are thinking about the stitch swap and not paying attention to their hands. Work the first stitch loosely and deliberately, the same way you work every other stitch. This keeps the edge of your piece even.
When to use each method
Use the stitch-swap method for most projects. It is faster once you get used to it, and it keeps your tension consistent because you are always working from the same side of the fabric. Write out the row before you start, especially while you are learning.
Use the turning method if you are a beginner and the pattern is straightforward, or if you are working with very thick yarn where turning is not awkward. It removes the mental load of swapping stitches, which can help you focus on tension and technique.
Use markers and a row counter with either method. They take no extra time and catch mistakes before they become big problems.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do I have to work wrong-side rows, or can I always work from the right side?
You can turn your work to face the right side for every row if you want to. This is slower and can create tension issues, but it is not wrong. Some knitters do this for their entire knitting life. The stitch-swap method is faster once you learn it, but turning works if that is what feels natural to you.
What if I mess up a wrong-side row and do not notice until later?
If the mistake is only one or two rows back, frog back to that row and redo it. If it is further back and the mistake is small — a single wrong stitch in a large pattern — you can often leave it. Many knitters use the "one-row rule": if you would not notice it from three feet away, it is not worth frogging. If the mistake breaks the pattern visibly, frog back and fix it.
Does the yarn wrap direction change on wrong-side rows?
No. You wrap the yarn the same way every time — over the needle for a knit stitch, under the needle for a purl stitch. What changes is which stitch type you choose to make. The mechanics of wrapping stay the same; only your stitch decision flips.
Can I use the stitch-swap method with circular needles?
Yes, but you have to be careful. With circular needles, you are always working in the same direction around the circle. If your pattern calls for wrong-side rows, you still read backwards and swap stitches. Some knitters find this confusing because they are used to working in one direction. A small practice swatch helps here too.
What if my pattern does not say which rows are wrong-side rows?
Look at the stitch key or pattern notes. Most patterns label rows as RS (right side) or WS (wrong side). If yours does not, assume that every other row is wrong-side — the first row you work is usually right-side, the second is wrong-side, and so on. If you are unsure, work a small swatch and check both sides to see which one matches the pattern photo.