What makes a raglan cardigan different from other cardigans

A raglan cardigan has sleeves that run diagonally from the underarm all the way up to the neckline, rather than sitting in a traditional cap at the shoulder. This diagonal seam is the raglan line, and it's what gives the cardigan its distinctive look and makes it easier to fit across the shoulders and chest.

The raglan construction is popular because it's forgiving to knit—you don't have to shape a complicated armhole or cap sleeve. Instead, you work the body and sleeves together in one piece (or mostly in one piece), decreasing stitches along those diagonal raglan lines as you go up. The result is a comfortable, flattering fit that works for many body types.

Most raglan cardigans are knit top-down, meaning you cast on at the neckline and work downward toward the hem. This method lets you try on the cardigan as you go and adjust the length before you bind off, which is a major advantage over bottom-up construction.

Key Takeaways

  • A raglan cardigan is defined by diagonal seams running from the underarm to the neckline, and top-down construction is the most common method for beginners.
  • You will need a pattern that specifies stitch counts for the neckline cast-on, raglan increase rates, and finished measurements at the bust and length.
  • Raglan increases happen on every other row or every row depending on your pattern, and you work them on both sides of four raglan lines (two sleeves, front, and back).
  • Trying on the cardigan every few inches lets you catch fit problems early and adjust sleeve length or body length before binding off.
  • Seaming the button bands and sewing on buttons comes after you finish the main knitting, and takes about an hour for a full cardigan.

Choosing a pattern and gathering materials

Start by finding a raglan cardigan pattern written for top-down construction. Look for patterns that list the neckline cast-on number, the rate of raglan increases (usually written as "increase 8 stitches every other row" or similar), and finished measurements for bust width and total length. Ravelry.com has thousands of free and paid patterns; search "top-down raglan cardigan" and filter by your skill level.

Check the pattern's yardage requirement and buy yarn in that weight and yardage. Raglan cardigans typically use fingering, sport, DK, or worsted weight yarn depending on the pattern. Buy slightly more than the pattern calls for—an extra 50 yards gives you a safety margin for gauge swatching and mistakes.

Gather your tools: circular needles in the size specified by the pattern (usually US 4 to 8 for most weights), a set of double-pointed needles or a smaller circular needle for the neckline cast-on, stitch markers, a yarn needle for weaving in ends, and a measuring tape. If the pattern includes a button band, you'll also need buttons in the size the pattern recommends.

Casting on and working the neckline ribbing

Cast on the number of stitches specified in your pattern using the long-tail or cable cast-on method. This is usually between 60 and 100 stitches depending on the cardigan's size. Use a circular needle even though you're working in the round on a small circumference—this is easier than managing double-pointed needles.

Work the neckline ribbing in 1x1 or 2x2 rib (knit 1, purl 1 or knit 2, purl 2) for the number of rows your pattern specifies, usually 6 to 10 rows. This ribbing sits at the neckline and should feel snug but not tight. If it feels too tight as you work, you can switch to a larger needle size for the ribbing alone.

On the row after you finish ribbing, you'll place stitch markers to mark your four raglan lines. Your pattern will tell you exactly where—typically you'll have a marker for the right sleeve, the back, the left sleeve, and the front. These markers stay in place for the entire cardigan and help you keep track of where to increase.

Understanding and working raglan increases

Raglan increases are the core of the construction. On increase rows, you add 2 stitches on each side of each of your 4 raglan markers—that's 8 new stitches per increase row. Your pattern will specify whether you increase every row or every other row; most patterns increase every other row for a more gradual slope.

To increase at a raglan marker, work to one stitch before the marker, knit 1, slip the marker, knit 1, then knit 1 into the front and back of the next stitch (or use your preferred increase method). This creates a visible line on both sides of the marker. Repeat this on both sides of all four markers on every increase row.

Work the non-increase rows (usually plain knit rounds) between increase rows. As your stitch count grows, you'll move from double-pointed needles to a longer circular needle to accommodate the increasing circumference. Most patterns tell you when to switch needle sizes.

Keep track of your row count. Many knitters use a row counter or mark off rows on paper. Losing count means you'll have uneven raglan lines, which won't affect the fit but will look asymmetrical.

Separating the sleeves and continuing the body

After you've worked the raglan increases for the number of rows your pattern specifies, you'll separate the sleeves from the body. At this point, your stitch count is divided into four sections: right sleeve, back, left sleeve, and front. Your pattern will tell you the exact stitch count for each section.

Put the sleeve stitches on stitch holders or scrap yarn—don't bind them off yet. Continue knitting the body (back and front) in the round on your circular needle. You'll work even (no more increases) until the body reaches the desired length, usually measured from the underarm to the hem.

Try on the cardigan at this point if possible. Measure from your underarm to where you want the hem to sit, then compare to your current length. If you need more length, keep knitting. If you're close, you can start planning your hem ribbing.

Finishing the body and sleeves

When the body reaches the correct length, work 1x1 or 2x2 ribbing for 6 to 10 rows, then bind off loosely using the standard bind-off or a stretchy method like the Jeny's Surprisingly Stretchy Bind-Off. The ribbing should feel as stretchy as the neckline ribbing.

Transfer the sleeve stitches from the holder back onto a circular needle or double-pointed needles. Pick up stitches around the armhole opening if your pattern requires it (some patterns do, some don't—follow your pattern exactly). Work the sleeves in the round, decreasing at the underarm seam if your pattern specifies, until the sleeve reaches your wrist or the desired length.

Finish the sleeve cuffs with ribbing and bind off the same way you did the body. Repeat for the second sleeve. Weave in all ends with a yarn needle, working them through ribbing or along a seam so they don't show.

Adding button bands and buttons

Most raglan cardigans have button bands knit as part of the front edges. If your pattern includes them, you'll pick up stitches along the front opening after the body is complete. Pick up one stitch for every row along the edge, or follow your pattern's specific pickup rate.

Work the button band in ribbing (usually 1x1 rib) for 6 to 10 rows. On one side, you'll make buttonholes by binding off 2 to 3 stitches and casting them back on in the next row. Space the buttonholes evenly—measure the distance from the neckline to the hem, divide by the number of buttons, and place a buttonhole at each interval.

Bind off the button band loosely, then sew buttons onto the opposite side using a needle and thread that matches the yarn color. Sew through the button and into the ribbing 4 times per button to find it firmly. Knot the thread on the inside and trim.

Blocking and wearing your cardigan

Wet-block your finished cardigan by soaking it in cool water with a gentle wool wash for 15 to 20 minutes. Gently squeeze out water without wringing, then lay it flat on a towel or blocking board. Shape it to the finished measurements listed in your pattern, pinning the edges if needed. Let it dry completely—this usually takes 24 to 48 hours.

Blocking evens out your stitches, opens up the fabric, and helps the cardigan hold its shape. Even if you're short on time, blocking makes a noticeable difference in how professional the finished cardigan looks.

Once dry, try on your cardigan and wear it. The raglan construction should feel comfortable across the shoulders, and the sleeves should reach your wrist without pulling. If you made adjustments as you knit, the fit should be close to what you intended.

Frequently Asked Questions

What if my raglan lines are uneven or crooked?

Uneven raglan lines usually happen when you lose count of your increase rows or place markers in the wrong spot at the start. If you notice it early, you can unknit a few rows and fix it. If you've already finished, the cardigan will still fit fine—the unevenness is mostly visible to you. Many knitters accept minor imperfections as part of handmade garments.

Can I knit a raglan cardigan bottom-up instead of top-down?

Yes, but it's more difficult for beginners because you have to shape the armholes and cap sleeves, and you can't try it on as you go. Most patterns are written top-down. If you want to work bottom-up, look for patterns specifically labeled that way rather than adapting a top-down pattern.

How do I know if my gauge is correct before I start?

Knit a swatch at least 4 inches by 4 inches in the stitch pattern your pattern uses, wash and block it the same way you'll wash the finished cardigan, then measure how many stitches and rows fit in 4 inches. Compare to your pattern's gauge. If your gauge is off, change needle sizes up or down until it matches.

What if the neckline is too tight or too loose?

If it's too tight, you can pick up stitches around the neckline and knit a new, looser ribbing, then bind off. If it's too loose, you can tighten it by picking up and re-knitting with a smaller needle. Both fixes take about 30 minutes and are worth doing if the neckline doesn't feel right.

Do I have to seam the sleeves to the body?

No. Top-down raglan construction creates the sleeve cap as you knit, so there's no seaming required at the armhole. You only seam the button bands if your pattern includes them, and that's optional—some patterns have you pick up and knit the bands instead.