The two main methods for knitting in the round

Knitting in the round means working in a continuous spiral instead of turning your work back and forth in rows. You use either circular needles (two needle tips connected by a cable) or double-pointed needles (a set of four or five short needles with points on both ends). Circular needles work best for larger projects like sweater bodies and hats with a wide circumference. Double-pointed needles work better for small, tight circles like sock cuffs, hat crowns, and the tops of mittens.

The choice between them comes down to the circumference of what you are making. If your project is too small for the cable on your circular needle, stitches bunch up and the work becomes hard to manage. If you use double-pointed needles on a large project, you spend too much time moving stitches between needles. Most knitters own both and switch based on the job.

Key Takeaways

  • Circular needles work for projects larger than about 16 inches around; double-pointed needles work for anything smaller.
  • Cast on all your stitches onto one needle, then arrange them around the circle before you join, checking that none are twisted.
  • Mark the start of your round with a stitch marker so you know where each new round begins.
  • The first round is the hardest because stitches are loose; pull the working yarn snug after every few stitches to prevent gaps at the join.

How to set up circular needles

Cast on your stitches onto the left needle tip as you normally would. Once all stitches are on the needle, slide them down onto the cable so they sit in the middle, away from both needle tips. This gives you room to work without the cable getting in your way.

Before you join the round, lay the needle flat and check that the stitches form a circle with no twists. If the cast-on edge is twisted around the cable, your finished piece will have a permanent spiral. Untwist it by sliding stitches back onto the tips and rotating the cable until the edge lies flat. This step takes 30 seconds and prevents a ruined project.

Place a stitch marker on the right needle tip, right after your last cast-on stitch. This marks the beginning of your round. As you work, you will slip this marker from the left needle to the right needle at the start of each new round, so you always know where round 1 ends and round 2 begins.

Joining the round and the first few stitches

Hold the needle so the working yarn (the yarn attached to your ball) hangs from the right needle tip. Insert the right needle tip through the first cast-on stitch on the left needle tip, and knit it as you normally would. You have now joined the round. The gap between your last cast-on stitch and your first new stitch is where the seam of your piece will be.

The first round is tight because cast-on stitches do not stretch as easily as regular stitches. After every two or three stitches, pull the working yarn snug to close any gaps forming at the join. Do not pull so hard that you distort the stitch, but pull hard enough that the gap disappears. This prevents a loose, sloppy seam that shows in the finished piece.

By the time you finish the first round, the stitches will feel looser and the tension will even out. Subsequent rounds are much easier because the stitches have already been worked once.

Working with double-pointed needles

Cast on all your stitches onto one double-pointed needle. Divide them evenly among three or four needles — if you have 60 stitches and four needles, put 15 stitches on each. Arrange the needles in a square or triangle, with the working yarn hanging from the needle that holds your last cast-on stitch.

Before joining, check that none of the stitches are twisted around the needles. Lay the needles flat and look at the cast-on edge; it should form a circle with no spirals. If it is twisted, unwind it by rotating the needles until the edge lies flat.

Place a stitch marker on the first needle, right after your last cast-on stitch. Insert the empty needle (the one with no stitches) through the first stitch on the first needle, and knit it. You have now joined the round. Continue knitting around the needles in order. When you reach the end of one needle, that needle becomes empty and you use it to knit the stitches on the next needle.

Pull the working yarn snug after the first few stitches of the first round, just as you would with circular needles. The join will feel loose at first and tighten as you work.

Tension at the join and preventing laddering

A common problem with double-pointed needles is laddering — vertical lines of loose stitches running up the sides where two needles meet. This happens when you do not pull the yarn tight enough as you move from one needle to the next.

To prevent laddering, pull the working yarn snug after the first stitch on each new needle. You do not need to pull hard enough to distort the stitch, but hard enough that the gap closes. After the first stitch or two on a new needle, the tension evens out and you can work normally.

If you already have laddering in your finished piece, you can tighten it after the fact by running a tapestry needle up the loose column and pulling gently, distributing the extra yarn among the stitches. This is tedious but works.

Choosing the right needle size for your project

Circular needles come in different cable lengths, usually 16, 24, 32, and 40 inches. Measure the circumference of your project at its widest point. Your needle cable should be about 2 inches shorter than that circumference so stitches sit snugly without bunching. A 16-inch cable works for hats and small projects. A 24-inch cable works for sweater bodies and larger hats. A 40-inch cable works for blankets and very large garments.

If your project is too small for your shortest circular needle, use double-pointed needles instead. If you do not own the right size, you can also use the magic loop method, which uses one very long circular needle (40 inches or longer) folded in half to work small circumferences. This method takes practice but works in a pinch.

Double-pointed needles usually come in sets of four or five. A set of four works for most projects. A set of five gives you more flexibility in how you divide stitches, but four is standard and sufficient.

Common mistakes and how to fix them

The most common mistake is twisting the cast-on edge before joining. You catch this by laying the needle flat and looking before you knit the first stitch. If you do not catch it and knit a twisted round, you will see a spiral in your finished piece. The only fix is to rip back to the cast-on and start over.

The second common mistake is not pulling the yarn snug at the join, which creates a loose seam. If you notice this in the first round, you can tighten it by running a tapestry needle through the loose stitches and pulling gently. If you do not notice until later, the seam will show in the finished piece.

A third mistake is using a needle that is too large for your project. If your cable is much longer than your circumference, stitches spread out and the work becomes floppy and hard to control. Switch to a smaller cable or use double-pointed needles.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do I have to use a stitch marker at the join?

No, but it is worth the small effort. Without a marker, you have to count stitches or look at your pattern to know where each round starts and ends. A marker costs almost nothing and saves you from miscounting. You slip it from the left needle to the right needle as you pass it each round.

Can I knit in the round with straight needles?

No. Straight needles have a point on only one end, so you cannot work in a continuous circle. You would have to knit back and forth in rows and seam the sides together later, which defeats the purpose of knitting in the round.

What is the magic loop method?

The magic loop method uses one very long circular needle (40 inches or longer) folded in half to work small projects like sock cuffs. You pull a loop of cable through the middle of your stitches, creating two working sections. It works but has a steep learning curve and is slower than double-pointed needles for most people.

Why do my stitches look loose at the join?

The cast-on edge is naturally looser than regular stitches, and the join is the tightest point in the round. Pull the working yarn snug after every few stitches in the first round. If you already have loose stitches, run a tapestry needle up the loose column and pull gently to redistribute the yarn.

Can I switch from circular needles to double-pointed needles mid-project?

Yes. When your circumference becomes too small for your circular needle, slip all stitches onto double-pointed needles and continue. The transition is seamless. You might notice a slight change in tension where you switch, but it evens out after a few rounds.