Knitting shorts is possible but requires planning your gauge, yarn weight, and fit before you cast on
Knitting shorts differs from knitting a sweater or hat because shorts need to fit snugly around your waist and thighs without sagging, and the leg openings must be the right width for your foot to pass through. Most hand-knit shorts are worked flat (on straight needles) or in the round (on circular needles), starting at the waist and decreasing down each leg, or starting at one leg and increasing toward the waist. The yarn weight matters more than it does for other garments—worsted weight or heavier works best because lighter yarn creates shorts that sag and lose shape after a few wears. You will also need to measure your actual body, swatch to find your gauge, and choose a pattern designed for shorts rather than adapting a sweater pattern.
The biggest difference between knitting shorts and other garments is that fit is unforgiving. A sweater that is an inch too wide can still work, but shorts that are an inch too wide at the thigh will slide down and bunch at the waist. This means your gauge swatch is not optional—it is the foundation of the entire project. Skipping the swatch or assuming your gauge will match the pattern is the most common reason hand-knit shorts do not fit.
Key Takeaways
- Worsted weight yarn or heavier holds its shape better in shorts than fingering or sport weight, which will stretch out and sag around the legs.
- You must knit a gauge swatch before starting—shorts fit depends entirely on your stitch and row gauge matching the pattern's numbers.
- Measure your waist, hip, thigh, and inseam length before choosing a pattern, because shorts fit tighter than sweaters and a half-inch error changes the whole garment.
- Most hand-knit shorts are worked in the round from the waist down, which eliminates seams and makes it easier to try on as you go.
- Elastic threaded through the waistband or a drawstring keeps shorts from sliding down, since knit fabric stretches more than woven fabric.
Measure yourself and choose the right yarn weight
Before you pick a pattern, measure your natural waist (where your pants normally sit), your hip at the fullest point, your thigh circumference about 2 inches below your hip, and your inseam from your hip bone down to where you want the shorts to end. Write these numbers down. Shorts need to fit closer to your body than a sweater does, so if a sweater pattern says "finished bust 40 inches," shorts at 40 inches around the hip will be too loose. For shorts, aim for finished measurements that are 1 to 2 inches larger than your actual body measurement—this gives you room to move without excess fabric.
Yarn weight is critical. Fingering weight (the thinnest yarn) and sport weight create fabric that stretches easily and loses elasticity after a few wears—your shorts will bag out at the knees and thighs. Worsted weight (medium thickness) or bulky weight holds its shape much better and is forgiving if your gauge is slightly off. Merino wool or wool blends are ideal because they have natural elasticity and recover their shape after washing. Cotton and cotton blends work but do not bounce back as well, so they need a tighter gauge to stay in place. Check the yarn label for fiber content and yardage; most shorts patterns call for 800 to 1,500 yards depending on size and yarn weight.
Knit and measure your gauge swatch
Gauge is the number of stitches and rows per inch in your knitting. If your gauge does not match the pattern's gauge, your shorts will be the wrong size. Cast on 20 to 24 stitches using the yarn and needles the pattern calls for, and knit in stockinette stitch (knit on the right side, purl on the wrong side) for at least 6 inches. Bind off loosely and lay the swatch flat on a table without stretching it. Let the swatch sit for at least 24 hours before measuring—yarn relaxes and your gauge may shift slightly.
Place a ruler horizontally across the middle of the swatch and count how many stitches fit in 4 inches. Divide by 4 to get stitches per inch. Do the same vertically for rows per inch. If your gauge is tighter (more stitches per inch) than the pattern calls for, your shorts will be smaller—you may need to go up a needle size. If your gauge is looser (fewer stitches per inch), your shorts will be larger, and you may need to go down a needle size. Knit a new swatch with the adjusted needle size and measure again. This step takes time but prevents wasting yarn on a garment that does not fit. Many knitters knit two or three swatches before the gauge matches exactly.
Cast on at the waist and work in the round
Most shorts patterns start at the waist and work downward in the round using circular needles. Cast on the number of stitches for your waist measurement using the long-tail cast-on method, which creates a stretchy edge. Join the stitches into a circle by knitting the first stitch through the loop of the last stitch, being careful not to twist the stitches. Place a stitch marker at the join to mark the beginning of each round. If you are new to working in the round, practice on a small project first—the circular needle takes some getting used to, but it becomes natural quickly.
Knit the waistband in ribbing (alternating knit and purl stitches, usually 1x1 or 2x2 ribbing) for 1 to 2 inches. Ribbing is elastic and helps the waistband stay up. After the ribbing, switch to stockinette stitch and knit straight for 1 to 2 inches to create the hip area. This is where you try on the shorts for the first time—slip them on over your hand and check that the waist feels snug but not tight, and that the fabric sits at your natural waist. If the waist is too loose or too tight at this point, you can still unravel and adjust the cast-on number before you go further.
Decrease for the thigh and leg
Once you reach the hip, you will decrease stitches to shape the thigh and leg. The pattern will tell you where to decrease and how often. Most patterns use either paired decreases (one decrease on each side of the leg) or distributed decreases (spread around the leg). Decreases are usually worked every 4 to 6 rounds, removing 2 to 4 stitches per round depending on how much shaping the pattern calls for. Common decrease methods include knit two together (k2tog) and slip, slip, knit (ssk)—both reduce your stitch count by one.
Knit straight without decreasing for 2 to 3 inches after the hip to create the thigh area, then begin decreasing. Continue decreasing every 4 to 6 rounds until you reach your desired thigh circumference. After the thigh, knit straight for another 2 to 3 inches, then decrease again for the calf and shin. The leg should taper gradually—if you decrease too quickly, the shorts will look bunched and uncomfortable. Try on the shorts every 1 to 2 inches of knitting to check the fit, especially around the thigh and calf. This frequent checking prevents you from knitting past the point where the fit is correct.
Finish the leg opening and add elastic or a drawstring
When you reach your desired inseam length, bind off the remaining stitches using a stretchy bind-off method, such as the sewn bind-off or the stretchy bind-off. Do not bind off too tightly, or the leg opening will be difficult to pull on. The leg opening should be snug enough that the shorts do not fall down but loose enough to slip on over your foot without struggling. Test the leg opening by pulling the shorts on—if you have to force them over your heel, the opening is too small and you will need to unravel and re-bind off more loosely.
To keep the shorts from sliding down, thread elastic through the waistband ribbing using a tapestry needle. Measure elastic that is 1 to 2 inches smaller than your waist measurement, thread it through the ribbing, and sew the ends together securely. Alternatively, add a drawstring by threading yarn or cord through eyelets (holes) you create by working yarn-overs in a row of the waistband. A drawstring gives you more control over the fit and is easier to adjust than elastic. Many knitters use both—elastic for security and a drawstring for fine-tuning the fit.
Weave in ends and wash your finished shorts
Once you bind off, weave in all loose yarn ends using a tapestry needle, working the ends through the stitches on the wrong side of the fabric. Weave at least 2 inches to prevent the ends from pulling loose. Trim the excess yarn close to the fabric. Pay special attention to ends at the waistband and leg openings, where they are most likely to come loose during wear.
Wash your shorts in cool water with mild wool detergent (even if the yarn is a blend) and lay them flat to dry. Do not wring or twist them, and do not put them in the dryer. Once dry, try them on and check the fit. If the waistband is too loose, tighten the elastic or drawstring. If the legs are too tight or too loose, you can unravel the leg opening and re-bind off with a different tension, though this is time-consuming. Most hand-knit shorts fit best after one or two wears, when the fabric settles into its final shape and the elastic relaxes slightly.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I knit shorts on straight needles instead of circular needles?
Yes, but it is more work. You will knit flat in rows and seam the legs together at the end using a tapestry needle and mattress stitch. Circular needles are faster because you avoid seaming, but straight needles work if that is what you have. Either way, your gauge and fit matter equally.
What happens if my shorts are too loose after I finish them?
If the waist is loose, tighten the elastic or drawstring. If the thigh or leg is too loose, you can unravel from the bind-off up to where the fit is correct, then re-bind off at a tighter gauge. This wastes yarn but saves the garment. If the whole garment is too loose, you may need to unravel and reknit with a smaller needle size.
How long does it take to knit a pair of shorts?
Time depends on yarn weight, pattern complexity, and your knitting speed. Worsted weight shorts typically take 15 to 30 hours of active knitting. Bulky weight is faster, sometimes 10 to 15 hours. Fingering weight can take 40 hours or more. Most knitters finish a pair over two to four weeks of regular knitting.
Do hand-knit shorts shrink in the wash?
Wool and wool blends may shrink slightly if washed in hot water or dried in a dryer. Always use cool water and lay flat to dry. Cotton and cotton blends shrink more easily, so check the yarn label for care instructions. Blocking (pinning the shorts to shape and letting them dry) after washing helps them hold their size.
Can I add pockets to hand-knit shorts?
Yes, but it requires planning before you cast on. Most patterns include instructions for picking up stitches and knitting a pocket lining, or you can sew a fabric pocket to the inside after the shorts are finished. Adding pockets after binding off is easier than planning them into the pattern if you are a beginner.