What SKP Means and Why You'll Use It

SKP stands for "slip, knit, pass slipped stitch over"—a decrease stitch that removes one stitch from your needle and leans slightly to the left. You'll see it in patterns whenever the designer wants a slanted decrease that pairs visually with a knit two together (K2tog) decrease, which leans right. Together, they create balanced shaping in sweaters, hats, and shawls.

The stitch is straightforward once you break it into its three parts. Unlike some decreases that feel fiddly, SKP becomes automatic after a few rows. Most knitters find it easier than it looks on the page.

Key Takeaways

  • SKP is a left-leaning decrease made by slipping a stitch, knitting the next stitch, then passing the slipped stitch over the knit stitch.
  • The stitch removes one stitch from your needle and is often paired with K2tog decreases for balanced shaping.
  • You slip the first stitch knitwise (as if to knit), knit the next stitch normally, then use your left needle to lift the slipped stitch over the knit stitch and off the needle.
  • Common mistakes include slipping purlwise instead of knitwise, or pulling too tight on the working yarn after the decrease.

The Three Steps of SKP

Step 1: Slip the stitch. Insert your right needle through the next stitch on your left needle as if you were about to knit it, but instead of wrapping yarn and pulling through, straightforward slide that stitch onto your right needle. This is called slipping knitwise. Do not wrap yarn around your needle—just move the stitch over.

Step 2: Knit the next stitch. Knit the following stitch on your left needle the way you normally would: insert your right needle, wrap yarn, and pull a new loop through. You now have two stitches on your right needle—the slipped stitch and the new knit stitch.

Step 3: Pass the slipped stitch over. Use the tip of your left needle to lift the slipped stitch (the first one on your right needle) up and over the knit stitch you just made, then let it drop off the right needle. You have now decreased by one stitch. The knit stitch stays on your right needle.

How to Hold Your Needles While You Work

Many knitters find SKP easier if they position their hands before starting. Hold your left needle in your left hand as usual. After you slip the stitch and knit the next one, pause for a moment. Your right needle now holds both stitches loosely.

Bring the tip of your left needle up from underneath and behind the right needle. Hook the left needle's tip under the slipped stitch (the one closer to the base of your right needle). Lift it up and forward, rolling it over the knit stitch. Let it fall off the right needle. This motion becomes smoother each time you do it.

Some knitters prefer to use their right index finger to hold the knit stitch in place while they lift the slipped stitch over with their left needle. Try both ways and stick with whichever feels more stable in your hands.

Common Mistakes and How to Avoid Them

The most frequent error is slipping the stitch purlwise instead of knitwise. If you slip purlwise, the stitch twists on your needle, and the decrease will look uneven or distorted. Always insert your needle as if to knit, not as if to purl, even though you are not actually knitting.

Another common problem is pulling the working yarn too tight after you complete the decrease. This pinches the new stitch and makes it smaller than the stitches around it. After you pass the slipped stitch over, give your working yarn a gentle, even tension—the same tension you use for your regular knit stitches. The decrease should sit flat and even with its neighbors.

Some knitters accidentally knit into the slipped stitch a second time, or they pass the wrong stitch over. Slow down for the first few decreases in a row. Once your hands learn the motion, your speed will come naturally.

SKP in the Context of Your Pattern

Patterns usually write SKP in a sequence with other stitches. You might see something like "K5, SKP, K8" on a decrease row. This means knit five stitches normally, then perform your SKP decrease, then knit eight more stitches. The decrease happens in the middle of the row, and the stitches on either side anchor it visually.

When a pattern calls for multiple decreases on the same row—for example, "K5, SKP, K8, K2tog, K5"—the SKP and K2tog pair create a balanced V-shape. The SKP leans left, the K2tog leans right, and together they frame the stitches between them. This is why designers choose SKP over other decreases: it is not just functional, it is decorative.

Practicing SKP on a Swatch

If you are new to the stitch, knit a small practice swatch before you work it into a project. Cast on about 20 stitches in a worsted-weight yarn and a size you can see clearly. Knit a few rows in stockinette stitch (knit on the right side, purl on the wrong side) to establish a baseline.

On the next right-side row, knit to the middle of your row, then perform an SKP. Knit to the end. On the next right-side row, do another SKP in roughly the same spot. After three or four decreases stacked vertically, you will see the left-leaning line they create. This is what SKP looks like when it is working correctly. Compare it to a K2tog decrease on another swatch to see the difference in lean.

When Your SKP Doesn't Look Right

If your SKP stitches look twisted, bunched, or significantly tighter than the rest of your work after you have tried the stitch five or six times, a local yarn shop or knitting group can watch you work and spot the issue. Sometimes a small adjustment in how you hold your needles or tension your yarn makes all the difference.

The most common visual problems are a twisted stitch (which means you slipped purlwise), a loose stitch (which means your tension is too loose after the decrease), or a stitch that sits higher than its neighbors (which means you are pulling the slipped stitch too far before passing it over). Most knitters are happy to help someone learn a new stitch, and a few minutes of feedback can save you hours of frustration on a larger project.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is SKP the same as SKPO?

SKPO stands for "slip, knit, pass over"—it is the same stitch with a shorter name. Some older patterns use SKPO, some use SKP. They mean the identical thing. Use whichever abbreviation your pattern uses.

Can I use SKP on purl rows?

Yes. On a purl row, slip the stitch purlwise, purl the next stitch, then pass the slipped stitch over the purled stitch. This creates a left-leaning decrease on the wrong side of your fabric, which becomes a right-leaning decrease when you look at the right side. Check your pattern to see which side the decrease should lean on.

What is the difference between SKP and SSK?

SSK (slip, slip, knit) is another left-leaning decrease. You slip two stitches knitwise one at a time, then insert your left needle through both and knit them together. Both SKP and SSK lean left, but they create slightly different textures. Your pattern will specify which one to use.

Why does my SKP look loose compared to my other stitches?

This usually means your tension on the working yarn is too loose after the decrease. Keep the same even tension you use for regular knit stitches. If the stitch still looks loose, you may be pulling the slipped stitch too far to the right before you pass it over. Keep all stitches close together on your needle until the moment you complete the decrease.

Can I do SKP at the edge of my work?

Yes, but most patterns avoid it because edge stitches are harder to work into and the decrease can look uneven. Designers usually place decreases at least one or two stitches in from the edge. If your pattern calls for an edge decrease, follow it exactly—the designer has tested it.