The two main ways to knit a sleeve

You can knit a sleeve in two ways: top-down (starting at the shoulder and working toward the wrist) or bottom-up (starting at the cuff and working toward the armhole). Top-down sleeves let you try on the garment as you go and adjust the length before you bind off. Bottom-up sleeves require you to measure carefully or follow a pattern closely, because you commit to the length before you attach the sleeve to the body.

Most patterns specify which method to use. If you are choosing your own approach, top-down is more forgiving for a first sleeve because you can see how the fit looks before you finish.

Key Takeaways

  • Top-down sleeves start at the armhole and decrease stitches as you work down to the cuff; bottom-up sleeves start at the cuff and increase stitches as you work up to the armhole.
  • You pick up stitches around the armhole opening for a top-down sleeve, which means counting the available stitches carefully or using a pattern's stitch count.
  • Cap shaping (the curved part at the top of the sleeve) requires decreasing stitches in a specific sequence to match the armhole curve.
  • Sleeve length is measured from the base of the armhole to the wrist bone, and you should measure on the person wearing the garment if possible.

Picking up stitches for a top-down sleeve

When you knit a sleeve from the top down, your first step is to pick up stitches around the armhole. The armhole is the opening where the sleeve will attach. Count the stitches available around the entire armhole opening—this includes stitches still on the needle at the shoulder and stitches you bound off along the sides of the armhole.

Use a smaller needle than your body needle to pick up stitches. Insert the needle under the edge stitch, wrap yarn around it, and pull through to create a new stitch. Work your way around the entire armhole. If your pattern says to pick up 60 stitches and the armhole has 64 bound-off stitches, you will skip some stitches or pick up in a pattern (for example, pick up 3 stitches, skip 1) to reach the target number.

Once you have picked up all stitches, join in the round using a circular needle or magic loop, and knit the first round. This is your starting point for the cap shaping.

Shaping the sleeve cap

The cap is the curved part of the sleeve at the top. It needs to decrease in width as it moves down from the armhole toward the upper arm, so the sleeve sits smoothly against the shoulder. Most patterns tell you exactly where and how many stitches to decrease.

A typical cap-shaping sequence decreases stitches every round for the first few rounds, then every other round, then every third round, gradually spacing the decreases further apart. For example, a pattern might say: "Decrease 2 stitches every round for 4 rounds, then decrease 2 stitches every other round for 6 rounds." This creates a smooth curve instead of a sharp angle.

Decreases are usually done 2 stitches in from each edge of the sleeve (called a selvedge). If you are working in the round, you might decrease at the beginning and middle of the round using a centered double decrease (slip 2 stitches together, knit 1, pass the slipped stitches over) or two separate decreases on either side.

Decreasing down the sleeve length

After the cap shaping is complete, you continue decreasing stitches as you work down the sleeve, but much more gradually. These decreases shape the sleeve to fit the arm. Most sleeves decrease every 6 to 10 rounds (depending on how fitted you want the sleeve) until you reach the target stitch count for the cuff.

Measure the sleeve length as you work. Measure from the base of the armhole (where the cap shaping ended) straight down to the needle. When the sleeve reaches about 2 inches above the wrist bone, stop decreasing and work even (no more decreases) until you reach the wrist bone itself.

If you are knitting a fitted sleeve, you might decrease 1 stitch on each side every 8 rounds. If you want a looser sleeve, decrease less often or not at all after the cap shaping. Your pattern will specify the decrease frequency.

Knitting the cuff and binding off

Once the sleeve reaches the wrist bone, you have a few options for the cuff. You can knit 1 to 2 inches of ribbing (usually knit 1, purl 1 or knit 2, purl 2) to create an elastic edge that hugs the wrist. Ribbing is stretchy and helps the sleeve stay in place. Alternatively, you can bind off directly without ribbing if the pattern calls for it.

When you are ready to finish, bind off using a standard bind-off or a stretchy bind-off (like the Jeny's Surprisingly Stretchy Bind-Off) so the cuff does not feel tight. Weave in the yarn ends, and the sleeve is complete.

Bottom-up sleeves: Working from cuff to cap

If you are knitting a sleeve from the bottom up, you cast on stitches at the cuff (usually the wrist measurement) and increase stitches as you work toward the armhole. Cast on using a long-tail cast-on or another method that creates a neat edge. Knit the cuff ribbing first (1 to 2 inches), then switch to stockinette stitch or your pattern stitch.

Increase stitches gradually as you work up the sleeve, usually every 6 to 10 rounds, until you reach the target stitch count for the armhole. Measure the sleeve length as you go. When the sleeve reaches the armhole (usually about 16 to 20 inches from the cast-on edge, depending on arm length), you stop increasing and bind off all stitches or place them on a holder.

With a bottom-up sleeve, you will sew or graft the sleeve cap to the armhole opening on the finished body. This requires more finishing work than a top-down sleeve but gives you a traditional construction.

Common mistakes and how to avoid them

The most common mistake is not measuring the sleeve length as you work. If you knit too long or too short, you have to rip back and reknit. Measure from the base of the armhole to the wrist bone on the person who will wear the garment, and check your progress every few inches.

Another mistake is decreasing too quickly or too slowly. If you decrease too fast, the sleeve becomes too narrow and tight. If you decrease too slowly, the sleeve hangs loose and baggy. Follow your pattern's decrease sequence, or if you are designing your own, decrease about 1 stitch on each side every 8 rounds for a fitted sleeve.

Uneven cap shaping happens when you forget to decrease at the correct intervals. Mark your decrease rounds on a piece of paper or use a row counter to stay on track. If the cap looks lumpy or uneven, you may have skipped a decrease or done one too many.

Frequently Asked Questions

What if my armhole is a different size than the pattern says?

Count the actual stitches around your armhole and pick up that number (or close to it). If the count is very different from the pattern, the sleeve may fit differently, but you can still knit it. Measure the finished sleeve on the person wearing it to make sure the length is correct.

Can I knit both sleeves at the same time?

Yes, using two circular needles or magic loop. Cast on for both sleeves on separate needles, then work one sleeve, switch needles, and work the other. This ensures both sleeves are the same length and have the same stitch count. It takes more attention but saves time overall.

How do I know if my sleeve cap is the right shape?

The cap should curve smoothly from the armhole down to the upper arm, with no sharp angles or bumps. If you see a ridge or a sudden change in width, you may have decreased too much in one area. Check your pattern's decrease sequence and adjust future sleeves if needed.

What is the difference between a fitted and a loose sleeve?

A fitted sleeve decreases stitches frequently (every 6 to 8 rounds) so it hugs the arm. A loose sleeve decreases less often (every 10 to 12 rounds) or not at all after the cap shaping. Your pattern will specify which style to knit.