Stockinette stitch is knit stitches on the front and purl stitches on the back

Stockinette stitch is the most common stitch in knitting. On the side facing you, you see smooth V-shaped columns. On the back, you see bumps. You create this pattern by knitting one row, then purling the next row, then repeating. That alternation is the whole technique.

The stitch looks straightforward because it is straightforward. Once you can knit and purl, you can make stockinette. Most sweaters, socks, and blankets use stockinette as their base, so learning it well means you can follow almost any pattern.

Key Takeaways

  • Stockinette is made by alternating a knit row with a purl row, always working the same stitch in the same direction.
  • The smooth V side is the front (called the right side), and the bumpy side is the back (called the wrong side).
  • Tension matters more in stockinette than in other stitches because uneven tension shows as visible waves or loose spots.
  • Stockinette curls at the edges unless you add a border stitch or bind off with a different technique.
  • Counting rows is easier in stockinette than in textured stitches because each V is one row on the front.

Cast on and knit your first row

Start by casting on the number of stitches your pattern calls for. Use any cast-on method you know—long-tail, cable, or provisional all work. The cast-on row itself is not counted as row 1; it is the foundation.

Once your stitches are on the needle, knit across the entire row. Insert your needle into each stitch from left to right, wrap the yarn, and pull through. Do not purl this row. When you reach the end, you have completed row 1.

Purl your second row

Turn your work around so the needle with the stitches is in your left hand. Now purl across the entire row. Insert your needle into each stitch from right to left (the opposite direction from knitting), wrap the yarn, and pull through. This is row 2.

The difference between knit and purl is the direction your needle enters the stitch and where the yarn sits. In knit, the yarn is behind the needle. In purl, the yarn is in front. That small change flips the stitch inside out, which is why alternating rows creates the stockinette pattern.

Repeat knit and purl rows until you reach your length

Row 3 is a knit row. Row 4 is a purl row. Continue this pattern—knit, purl, knit, purl—until your piece is as long as you need. Count your rows by looking at the front (right side). Each V-shaped column represents one row.

Keep your tension consistent. Stockinette shows tension problems more obviously than bumpy stitches do. If some rows are loose and others tight, the fabric will have visible waves. Aim for even tension by keeping the same distance between your needles and the same yarn wrap pressure on every stitch.

Understand right side and wrong side

The smooth V side is called the right side (or RS). This is the side that faces outward on a finished garment. The bumpy side is called the wrong side (or WS). This faces inward.

When you cast on and knit row 1, the bumpy side is facing you. When you turn and purl row 2, the smooth side is facing you. This is correct. If you are confused about which side is which, look at the Vs. Vs mean you are looking at the right side.

Know that stockinette curls and how to stop it

Stockinette naturally curls at the edges—the top and bottom curl toward the right side, and the left and right edges curl toward the wrong side. This is not a mistake; it is how the stitch behaves. If your pattern does not account for this, the finished piece will look wavy.

To prevent curling, add a border of a different stitch around the edges. A garter stitch border (knitting every row) is the most common choice. Knit the first and last stitch of every row, or knit the first and last few stitches, depending on how wide you want the border. You can also add a border after the piece is finished by picking up stitches around the edge and knitting a few rows.

Some patterns use stockinette in the center and garter stitch around the perimeter on purpose. Others bind off with a stretchy method that reduces curling. Read your pattern to see what it calls for.

Fix common mistakes

If you knit two rows in a row by accident, you will see garter stitch (bumps) instead of stockinette (Vs) for those rows. Unravel back to the mistake and redo it. If you purl two rows in a row, the same thing happens. The pattern breaks visibly, so you will notice it quickly.

If a stitch looks twisted or loose, check your yarn tension. Twisted stitches usually mean the yarn wrapped the wrong way around the needle. Loose stitches mean you are wrapping too loosely or pulling too hard on the next stitch. Adjust and move forward; a few imperfect stitches in a large piece are not visible once the piece is worn.

If you accidentally increase or decrease (added or lost a stitch), count your stitches at the end of each row until you find where it happened. Unravel back to that row and fix it. Counting takes 10 seconds and saves you from unraveling the whole piece later.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why does my stockinette look wavy instead of smooth?

Uneven tension is the most common cause. Some stitches are loose and some are tight, which makes rows sit at different heights. Practice keeping the same pressure on your yarn wrap and the same distance between your needles on every stitch. It takes practice but improves quickly.

Do I have to purl? Can I just knit every row?

If you knit every row, you get garter stitch, not stockinette. Garter stitch is bumpy on both sides. Stockinette requires alternating knit and purl rows. If you want the smooth look of stockinette, you must purl.

How do I know which row I am on?

Count the Vs on the right side (smooth side). Each V is one row. You can also place a stitch marker or safety pin at the end of a row you want to remember, then count from there. Some knitters use a row counter that slides on the needle.

Can I fix a dropped stitch in stockinette?

Yes. Use a crochet hook to pick up the dropped stitch by pulling the loose yarn through the loop below it, row by row, until the stitch is back on the needle. If the dropped stitch is more than a few rows down, it is easier to unravel back to that point and redo it by hand.

What happens if I accidentally knit when I should purl?

You will see a bump or a twisted stitch in that spot, and the pattern will break. If you notice it right away, unravel one stitch and redo it. If you notice it later, you can either leave it (it is usually not visible in a finished garment) or unravel back and fix it.