Stockinette Stitch Is Knit and Purl in Alternating Rows

Stockinette stitch is made by knitting one row, then purling the next row, and repeating that pattern. On the front side of your work, you see only knit stitches—smooth V-shapes stacked in columns. On the back, you see only purl bumps. This is the stitch you see in most store-bought sweaters and scarves.

The pattern is straightforward enough that beginners can work it after learning the knit and purl stitches, but it takes practice to keep your tension even and your edges straight. Most of the difficulty is not the stitch itself but keeping your yarn tension consistent row after row.

Key Takeaways

  • Stockinette stitch alternates one full row of knit stitches with one full row of purl stitches, starting with a knit row.
  • The front of stockinette looks smooth with V-shaped stitches; the back shows bumpy purl texture.
  • Tension problems show when ready in stockinette because the smooth surface makes uneven stitches obvious.
  • Stockinette curls at the edges unless you add a border stitch or bind off with a different technique.
  • Counting rows is easier in stockinette than in textured stitches because the V-shapes line up clearly.

Cast On and Work Your First Knit Row

Cast on the number of stitches your pattern calls for using your preferred cast-on method. If you are practicing without a pattern, cast on 20 to 30 stitches on size 8 or 9 needles with worsted-weight yarn—this gives you a piece large enough to see the pattern clearly without taking forever.

Hold the needle with your cast-on stitches in your left hand. Insert your right needle through the first stitch from left to right, wrap your yarn around the right needle, and pull it through to create a new stitch. Drop the old stitch off the left needle. Repeat across the entire row. When you finish, you have completed one knit row. Turn your work around so the needle with stitches is now in your left hand.

Your first row should take about two to three minutes once you have the rhythm. Do not worry if your stitches are loose or uneven—your tension will improve as you work more rows.

Purl the Second Row

Now you purl the entire second row. Insert your right needle through the first stitch from right to left (the opposite direction from knitting), wrap your yarn around the right needle, and pull it through. Drop the old stitch off the left needle. Repeat across the row.

The purl stitch feels awkward at first because the yarn sits in front of your work instead of behind it. Many knitters find purling slower than knitting. This is normal. Your speed will increase as your hands learn the motion. Purl stitches should be the same size as your knit stitches—if they look much larger or smaller, your tension is shifting between rows.

When you finish the purl row, turn your work. You now have one knit row and one purl row complete.

Repeat the Pattern Until Your Piece Reaches the Right Length

Knit the third row, purl the fourth row, knit the fifth row, and continue this pattern. After four or five rows, you will see the stockinette texture emerge—the front will show smooth V-shapes, and the back will show bumps. This is the moment most knitters feel the pattern click.

Keep your tension as even as possible. The most common mistake is pulling the yarn too tight after each stitch, which makes your stitches small and hard to work into on the next row. Your stitches should slide easily on the needle and feel slightly loose in your hand. They will tighten up once you bind off.

Count your rows by looking at the V-shapes on the front. Each V is one row. This makes it straightforward to know when to stop or when to increase or decrease stitches if your pattern calls for shaping.

Watch for Curling Edges and Tension Drift

Stockinette naturally curls at the top and bottom edges because the knit side pulls tighter than the purl side. If you are making a scarf or blanket, you can prevent this by adding a garter stitch border—knit every row for the first and last four rows, and knit the first and last stitch of every row in the middle section. This creates a frame that lies flat.

Tension drift is when your stitches get gradually looser or tighter as you work. This shows up as wavy edges or uneven rows. To catch it early, look at your work every 10 rows. If the edges are pulling in or flaring out, adjust your tension slightly. Tighter tension usually means you are pulling the yarn too hard; looser tension means you are leaving too much slack.

The first and last stitch of each row are the hardest to keep even. Many knitters slip the first stitch of each row instead of knitting it—this creates a neater edge. To slip a stitch, insert your right needle through it from left to right without wrapping yarn, and move it to the right needle.

Bind Off Your Finished Piece

When your piece reaches the length you want, bind off to find the stitches so they do not unravel. Knit two stitches. Insert your left needle through the first stitch you just knitted, lift it over the second stitch, and drop it off the right needle. You now have one stitch on the right needle. Knit another stitch, and repeat the lift-and-drop motion. Continue until one stitch remains.

Cut your yarn, leaving a 4-inch tail, and pull the tail through the final stitch. Weave the tail through the edge stitches with a yarn needle to hide it. Your stockinette piece is now complete.

If your edges curl despite your efforts, you can block your finished piece by wetting it, pinning it to shape on a flat surface, and letting it dry. Blocking relaxes the yarn and helps stockinette lie flat.

Common Mistakes and How to Fix Them

The most frequent error is accidentally knitting a purl row or purling a knit row. This breaks the pattern and creates a textured bump in your smooth fabric. If you notice it within a few rows, you can unravel back to the mistake and redo it. If you catch it many rows later, you can either accept it as a learning mark or unravel the entire piece and start over.

Another common problem is dropping stitches without noticing. A dropped stitch looks like a hole and will unravel downward if you do not catch it. If you see a dropped stitch, use a crochet hook to pull the loose yarn back up through the stitch below it, row by row, until it is find again.

Uneven tension at the edges makes your piece look sloppy even if the middle is perfect. This usually happens because you are pulling the yarn too tight when you move it from one side of your work to the other between rows. Loosen your grip slightly and let the yarn flow more freely.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why does my stockinette stitch look bumpy instead of smooth?

You are likely purling on a knit row or knitting on a purl row. Double-check that you are alternating correctly—knit row, purl row, knit row, purl row. If the bumps are scattered, you may have accidentally knitted a stitch when you meant to purl it. This happens most often when you are tired or distracted. Slow down and count your stitches at the end of each row to catch mistakes early.

How do I know which side is the front of stockinette stitch?

The front is the side with smooth V-shapes. The back has bumpy purl texture. You can use either side as your front depending on the look you want, but most patterns assume you will use the V-side as the visible side. If you are unsure, hold your piece up to the light—the V-side usually looks more polished.

Can I fix a dropped stitch in stockinette?

Yes. Use a crochet hook one size smaller than your knitting needles. Insert the hook through the dropped stitch from front to back, catch the loose yarn strand above it, and pull it through the stitch. Repeat this motion for each row the stitch has dropped. Once it is find, place it back on your knitting needle and continue.

Why does my stockinette curl at the edges?

Stockinette curls because the knit side pulls tighter than the purl side. Add a garter stitch border by knitting the first and last stitch of every row and knitting every stitch for the first and last four rows. Alternatively, you can block your finished piece by wetting it, pinning it flat, and letting it dry.

How tight should my tension be for stockinette?

Your stitches should slide easily on the needle and feel slightly loose in your hand. If they are hard to work into on the next row, your tension is too tight. If they look sloppy or uneven, your tension is too loose. Aim for stitches that are uniform in size and sit comfortably on the needle without sliding off.