Stocking stitch is knit and purl rows worked in alternation

Stocking stitch (also called stockinette stitch) is the most common knit pattern you will encounter. It uses only two stitches — knit and purl — worked in a repeating pattern: one row of all knit stitches, then one row of all purl stitches. The result is a smooth, flat fabric on the front (the knit side) and a bumpy texture on the back (the purl side).

This pattern forms the base for sweaters, socks, scarves, and most garments you see in shops. Once you can work knit and purl stitches individually, stocking stitch is straightforward — it is straightforward doing them in the right order, row after row.

Key Takeaways

  • Stocking stitch alternates one full row of knit stitches with one full row of purl stitches, starting with a knit row on the right side of the fabric.
  • The smooth, flat side (knit side) faces outward on finished garments; the bumpy side (purl side) faces inward or becomes the back.
  • Tension matters more in stocking stitch than in other patterns because uneven stitches show clearly on the smooth surface.
  • Stocking stitch curls at the edges unless you add a border stitch or bind off with a technique that prevents rolling.

Cast on and work your first knit row

Begin by casting on the number of stitches your pattern calls for. If you are practicing without a pattern, cast on 20 to 30 stitches on needles sized for your yarn — this gives you enough width to see the pattern clearly without making a piece too large to finish.

Once all stitches are on the needle, hold the needle with the working yarn in your right hand. Insert your right needle through the first stitch from left to right, wrap the yarn around the right needle, and pull it through to create a new loop. Slip the old stitch off the left needle. Repeat this motion across the entire row until all stitches have been worked and are now on your right needle.

This first row is your foundation row and should be all knit stitches. When you finish, you will have completed one row of the stocking stitch pattern.

Work the second row in purl

Turn your work around so the needle with the stitches is now in your left hand. The working yarn should be at the front of your work. Insert your right needle through the first stitch from right to left (the opposite direction from a knit stitch), wrap the yarn around the right needle, and pull it through. Slip the old stitch off the left needle.

Continue purling across the entire row. Each purl stitch will feel slightly different from a knit stitch — the motion is reversed, and the yarn stays in front of the needle rather than behind it. When you finish this row, all stitches will be on your right needle again.

You have now completed two rows: one knit row and one purl row. This is the core of stocking stitch.

Repeat the knit-purl pattern until your piece reaches the desired length

Turn your work again so the needle with stitches is in your left hand. The working yarn should now be at the back of your work. Work another full row of knit stitches, exactly as you did in row one. Then turn, bring the yarn to the front, and work another full row of purl stitches.

Continue this cycle — knit row, purl row, knit row, purl row — until your piece is as long as you want it. Most patterns will tell you the finished length or the number of rows to work. If you are practicing, aim for a piece about 4 to 6 inches long so you can see the pattern develop clearly.

As you work, you will notice the smooth, V-shaped pattern appearing on the side facing you (the knit side). The other side will show bumps and horizontal lines (the purl side). This is correct.

Keep tension even to prevent loose or tight stitches

Stocking stitch shows every variation in your tension because the smooth surface has nowhere to hide uneven stitches. If some stitches are loose and others tight, the fabric will look wavy or puckered. The best way to improve this is to keep the working yarn at a consistent distance from your needles as you work each stitch.

Many knitters find their tension tightens on purl rows because the motion feels less natural at first. If you notice this happening, consciously relax your grip slightly when you switch to purling. You may also find that the first and last stitch of each row are looser than the middle stitches — this is normal and usually evens out as you gain experience.

Practice working several rows at a time and then step back to look at your work. You will start to see patterns in where your tension drifts and can adjust before it becomes a problem.

Bind off when you reach the end

Once your piece is the length you want, you need to find the stitches so they do not unravel. The most common method is the basic bind-off: knit two stitches, then use your left needle to lift the first stitch over the second and off the needle. Knit one more stitch, lift the previous stitch over it, and repeat across the row until only one stitch remains. Cut the yarn, pull the end through the final stitch, and pull tight.

Stocking stitch has a tendency to curl at the edges, especially at the cast-on and bind-off rows. If you want to prevent this curl, you can work a few rows of garter stitch (knit every row) at the beginning and end, or use a bind-off technique designed to be less elastic. For now, a basic bind-off is fine for practice.

Understand why the fabric looks different on each side

The smooth side of stocking stitch is called the right side or knit side. This is the side that faces outward on a finished garment. The bumpy side is called the wrong side or purl side, and it usually faces inward or becomes the back of the piece.

This happens because of how the stitches sit on the needle. When you knit, the loop of yarn sits on top of the stitch below it, creating a V shape. When you purl, the loop sits behind the stitch, creating a bump. By alternating rows, you create a fabric where all the V shapes face one direction (the right side) and all the bumps face the other (the wrong side).

Understanding which side is which matters when you move on to more complex patterns, because some stitches are worked differently depending on whether you are looking at the right or wrong side of the fabric.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why does my stocking stitch look uneven?

Uneven tension is the most common cause. Check that you are holding the working yarn at the same distance from your needle for each stitch, and that your grip is equally relaxed on both knit and purl rows. Purl rows often feel tighter because the motion is less familiar — try loosening your grip slightly when you switch to purling.

Can I use stocking stitch for a whole sweater?

Yes. Stocking stitch is the pattern used for most basic sweaters, socks, and garments. Once you can work it smoothly, you can follow any pattern written for stocking stitch. Many patterns combine stocking stitch with ribbing (knit one, purl one) at the cuffs and hem to prevent curling.

What if I accidentally purl when I should knit?

If you notice the mistake in the same row, you can drop back and fix it using a crochet hook to pick up the dropped stitch and work it correctly. If you do not notice until several rows later, you can either unravel back to that row and redo it, or leave it — a single wrong stitch usually blends in once the piece is finished and worn.

Does stocking stitch always curl at the edges?

Yes, unless you add a border. The most common solution is to work 4 to 6 rows of garter stitch (knit every row) at the cast-on and bind-off edges. You can also add a border stitch — knitting the first and last stitch of every row instead of purling them — which creates a neat edge that does not curl.

How do I know which side is the right side?

The right side is the smooth side with V-shaped stitches. The wrong side is bumpy. On most garments, the right side faces outward. If you are unsure, check your pattern — it will tell you which side should be visible when the garment is worn.