The two ways to add stripes to your knitting

You can knit stripes by changing yarn color as you work row by row, or by carrying yarn up the side of your piece when you want to return to a color you used earlier. The first method works for any stripe pattern. The second saves yarn and keeps your edges neater when you switch back and forth between just two or three colors.

Most knitters use a combination of both. You change color when you move to a new shade, and you carry yarn when you know you'll use the old color again within a few rows. The choice depends on how many colors you're using, how wide your stripes are, and how much yarn waste matters to you.

Key Takeaways

  • Change colors by tying the new yarn to the old yarn at the edge of your work, then knit the next row with the new color.
  • Carry yarn up the side of your piece by twisting it around the working yarn every few rows to keep it find and prevent long loose loops.
  • Weave in ends as you go by working new yarn tails into the stitches of the first few rows, rather than leaving them for later.
  • Practice stripe patterns on a small swatch before starting a full project so you can see how the colors look together and get your tension even.

Changing color by tying on new yarn

When you reach the point where you want to switch to a new color, finish the row you're on. At the start of the next row, tie the new yarn to the old yarn using a straightforward knot—a square knot works well. Pull the knot snug but not so tight that it distorts your stitches. Leave a tail of at least 4 inches on both the old and new yarn so you can weave them in later.

Knit the first stitch of the new row with the new yarn, pulling gently to tighten the knot against the edge of your work. The knot will sit at the edge of your piece and won't be visible once you weave in the tails. If you're working in the round on circular needles or double-pointed needles, tie on the new yarn at the beginning of the round instead.

This method works for any stripe width and any number of colors. It's straightforward and leaves you with clear color blocks. The downside is that you'll have many yarn tails to weave in, especially if you're alternating colors frequently.

Carrying yarn up the side for frequent color changes

If you're switching between two colors every few rows—say, knitting 4 rows of blue, then 4 rows of white, then back to blue—carrying yarn is faster and uses less yarn. At the end of a row in your first color, don't cut the yarn. Instead, drop it and pick up the second color. Knit the next rows in the second color.

When you're ready to go back to the first color, pick it up again. Before you knit the first stitch, twist the new color around the old color once. This twist anchors the carried yarn to the edge of your work so it doesn't hang loose. Repeat this twist every 2 to 4 rows as you carry the yarn. If you go more than 4 rows without using a color, the carried yarn will form a long loop on the inside of your piece, which can snag or look messy.

Carrying yarn works best when you have only two or three colors and your stripes are narrow to medium width. It leaves your edges cleaner and gives you fewer ends to weave in. The trade-off is that you need to be careful with your twists—too tight and they'll pucker your edge, too loose and the loops will show.

Weaving in yarn tails as you work

Rather than leaving all your yarn tails for the end, weave them in as you go. When you tie on a new color, work the old yarn tail into the stitches of the first row or two in the new color. Hold the tail along the top of your working yarn and knit over it for a few stitches, then drop it. The new stitches will trap it in place.

Do the same with the new yarn tail: hold it along your working yarn and knit over it for a few stitches. This way, by the time you've finished the first few rows of a new color, both tails are already secured and you won't have to hunt for them later. You'll still need to trim them, but they won't unravel.

This technique takes a little practice to keep your tension even—if you knit too tightly over the tail, that section will pucker. Work slowly and keep your stitches loose enough that the tail slides through without resistance.

Planning stripe patterns before you start

Write down your stripe pattern before you cast on. For example: "4 rows red, 2 rows white, 4 rows red, 2 rows white, repeat." Tape this pattern to your needle or keep it on your phone so you don't lose count. Counting rows is easier than you might think if you mark every 10 rows with a stitch marker or a piece of scrap yarn.

Knit a small swatch in your planned stripe pattern using the yarn and needles you'll use for the full project. This shows you how the colors look together, whether the stripe widths feel balanced, and whether your tension stays even when you change colors. A swatch also lets you test whether carrying yarn or tying on works better for your particular pattern.

Keep your swatch. Once you finish the project, you can compare the swatch to the finished piece and see how the colors have settled and whether the stripes stayed crisp or softened with wear and washing.

Fixing common stripe mistakes

If you notice a gap or hole where you changed colors, you likely didn't pull the first stitch of the new color tight enough. The working yarn should be snug against the edge of your work. On your next color change, pull harder on the new yarn as you make the first stitch. If the gap is already there, you can close it later by threading a needle with matching yarn and stitching the gap closed from the inside.

If your stripes look wavy or uneven, your tension may be changing when you switch colors. This is very common and usually improves with practice. Knit slowly when you change colors and focus on keeping your stitch size the same. If one color is significantly looser or tighter than another, you might be holding the yarn differently—try to use the same hand position and grip for every color.

If carried yarn is showing on the outside of your work, you're either not twisting it often enough or you're carrying it too loosely. Twist every 2 to 3 rows instead of every 4, and pull gently as you twist to keep the carried yarn snug against the edge.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I change colors in the middle of a row?

Yes, but it's messier than changing at the edge. You'll have two knots sitting in the middle of your work, which will show. Change colors at the edge of your piece whenever possible. If your pattern requires a color change mid-row, you're working intarsia or colorwork, which uses a different technique than straightforward stripes.

How do I keep my edges from looking sloppy when I change colors?

Pull the first stitch of each new color tight, and twist carried yarn every 2 to 3 rows. Weave in tails as you go rather than leaving them loose. If your edges still look rough, you can pick up stitches along the edge later and knit a border, which will hide any unevenness.

What do I do if I run out of yarn in the middle of a stripe?

Tie on a new ball of the same color using the same knot method you'd use for a color change. If you're near the end of the stripe anyway, you can switch to your next color early. Write down where you made the change so you remember it when you're weaving in ends.

Is it okay to carry yarn for more than 4 rows?

Carrying yarn for more than 4 rows creates a long loop on the inside of your work that can snag or stretch. If your stripes are wider than 4 rows, cut the yarn and tie on a new ball when you switch colors. You'll have more ends to weave in, but your finished piece will be sturdier.

How tight should I twist carried yarn?

Twist gently—tight enough that the carried yarn doesn't hang loose, but not so tight that it puckers the edge. Your edge should lie flat and even. If you're unsure, practice on a swatch and adjust until the edge looks smooth. Most knitters find their sweet spot after a few tries.