Garter stitch is knit stitches on every row, in both directions
Garter stitch is the most basic knit pattern: you knit every stitch on every row, whether you are working flat on two needles or in the round on circular needles. That is the entire technique. Because you knit rather than purl, the bumps and ridges stack visibly on both sides of the fabric, creating the textured, ridged look that defines garter stitch.
The pattern is reversible — both sides look identical — and it lies flat without curling at the edges. This makes it the go-to choice for blankets, scarves, dishcloths, and any project where you want a sturdy, forgiving fabric that does not require you to track which side is front or back.
Garter stitch works with any yarn weight and any needle size, though thicker yarn and larger needles will produce a looser, drapier fabric. The stitch itself never changes: knit, knit, knit, row after row.
Key Takeaways
- Garter stitch requires only the knit stitch, worked on every row in both directions, making it the simplest pattern for beginners.
- The fabric is reversible and will not curl at the edges, so you do not need to worry about which side faces outward.
- You can use any yarn weight or needle size; thicker yarn and larger needles create a looser, more open texture.
- Counting rows is easier with garter stitch than with other patterns because each visible ridge equals two rows of knitting.
Cast on stitches and begin knitting flat
Start by casting on the number of stitches your pattern calls for, or choose a number between 20 and 30 if you are practicing without a pattern. Use a cast-on method you are comfortable with — long-tail, cable, or provisional all work equally well for garter stitch.
Once your stitches are on the needle, knit the first row by inserting your working needle through the first stitch from left to right, wrapping the yarn around the needle, and pulling the new loop through. Slide the old stitch off the left needle. Repeat this motion for every stitch on the row until you reach the end.
Turn the needle around so the working yarn is at the right side again. Knit the second row exactly the same way: knit every stitch from left to right, one at a time, until the row is complete. You now have two rows of garter stitch.
Continue knitting every row without changing stitches
The entire pattern from this point forward is identical to row two: knit every stitch on every row. Do not purl. Do not alternate between knit and purl rows. straightforward turn the needle and knit across, turn and knit across, turn and knit across.
As you work, you will notice horizontal ridges forming on the fabric. Each ridge represents two rows of knitting — one row that you worked, and one row that you worked in the opposite direction. This visual marker makes it much easier to count rows in garter stitch than in other patterns.
Keep your tension consistent by holding the yarn at the same distance from the needle on each stitch. Tension will naturally improve with repetition; do not worry if your first few rows are uneven.
Recognize when you have completed a ridge
A complete ridge in garter stitch takes four rows to form visibly — two rows of knitting in one direction, then two rows in the other direction. When you look at your fabric and see a clear horizontal bump, you have just completed a ridge.
If you are following a pattern that calls for a specific number of ridges rather than rows, count the bumps on the fabric itself. This is often more reliable than counting rows, especially if you lose track partway through.
Some patterns will ask for garter stitch in a specific measurement — "knit until the piece measures 10 inches" — rather than a row or ridge count. In that case, measure from the cast-on edge to your working needle using a ruler or measuring tape, and stop when you reach the target length.
Bind off to finish the edge
When your piece reaches the desired length, bind off the stitches to find them and prevent unraveling. The most common method is the basic bind-off: knit two stitches, pass the first stitch over the second, knit one more stitch, pass the previous stitch over the new one, and repeat until one stitch remains.
Cut the yarn, leaving a tail of 4 to 6 inches, and pull the tail through the final stitch to lock it. Weave the tail through the edge stitches using a tapestry needle to hide it inside the fabric, or leave it visible if your pattern calls for fringe.
Your garter stitch piece is now complete. The edges will be slightly wavy rather than perfectly straight — this is normal and will relax when the piece is washed and blocked.
Troubleshoot common garter stitch mistakes
If you accidentally purl a row, you will see a smooth column of V-shaped stitches instead of bumps. This breaks the garter stitch pattern. The easiest fix is to unravel back to the mistake, pick up the stitches on your needle, and knit the row again correctly. If the mistake is more than a few rows back, it is usually faster to start over than to fix it.
If your edges are pulling inward or your fabric is bunching on one side, you may be knitting too tightly. Try loosening your grip on the yarn slightly, or move up one needle size and knit a new swatch to test the difference.
If you drop a stitch, pick it up when ready with a crochet hook before it runs down multiple rows. Insert the hook through the dropped stitch from front to back, catch the horizontal strand of yarn above it, and pull the strand through the stitch. Repeat for each row the stitch has dropped, then place the stitch back on your knitting needle.
Practice garter stitch with a straightforward project
The best way to master garter stitch is to knit something you will actually use. A dishcloth is the traditional beginner project: cast on 30 to 40 stitches, knit until the piece is roughly square, and bind off. A dishcloth takes only a few hours and teaches you to maintain consistent tension and recognize when your piece is the right size.
A garter stitch scarf is equally straightforward. Cast on 15 to 20 stitches and knit until the scarf reaches your desired length — usually 60 to 70 inches. The repetitive motion becomes meditative, and you will see your tension improve visibly over the first few inches.
Blankets and afghans are also excellent garter stitch projects because mistakes are less visible in a large piece, and the reversible fabric means you can use either side as the front.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do I have to knit in the round to make garter stitch, or can I knit flat?
You can knit garter stitch either way. Flat garter stitch (on two needles) requires knitting every row. In the round (on circular needles), you must alternate knit rows with purl rows to create the same ridged texture, because working in one direction only would create stockinette stitch instead.
How do I know if I am purling by accident?
A purl stitch creates a smooth V shape on the fabric; a knit stitch creates a bump. If you see a column of V shapes instead of bumps, you purled that stitch. The easiest way to avoid this is to always insert your needle from left to right (the knit direction) rather than right to left (the purl direction).
Can I use garter stitch with different yarn weights?
Yes. Thicker yarn and larger needles create a looser, more open garter stitch fabric; thinner yarn and smaller needles create a denser, tighter fabric. The stitch itself never changes — you still knit every row — but the visual appearance and drape will vary based on your yarn and needle choice.
What is the difference between garter stitch and stockinette stitch?
Stockinette stitch alternates knit rows with purl rows, creating smooth V shapes on one side and bumps on the other. Garter stitch knits every row, creating bumps on both sides. Garter stitch is reversible and does not curl; stockinette curls at the edges and has a distinct front and back.
How many stitches should I cast on to practice garter stitch?
Start with 20 to 30 stitches. This is wide enough to practice tension and rhythm without taking too long to complete a row, but narrow enough that you will finish a practice piece in a few hours rather than days.