M1R is a left-leaning increase that sits nearly invisible in your fabric

M1R stands for "make one right" and creates a new stitch by lifting the horizontal strand between two stitches and knitting it through the back loop. The result leans to the right and blends into the fabric better than a yarn-over increase, which leaves a visible hole. You use M1R when a pattern calls for it by name, or when you need an invisible increase that slopes in a specific direction.

The "right" in the name refers to the direction the increase leans on the finished fabric, not the hand you use to make it. M1R pairs with M1L (make one left) in patterns where the designer wants increases to be nearly invisible — common in fitted sleeves, raglan shaping, and lace where the lean matters.

Key Takeaways

  • M1R lifts the strand between two stitches from front to back, then knits it through the back loop to create a right-leaning increase.
  • The stitch sits nearly flat in your fabric and does not leave a hole, making it useful for shaping where invisibility matters.
  • M1R and M1L are mirror increases — use M1R on the right side of a piece and M1L on the left side to keep shaping symmetrical.
  • The increase happens between two existing stitches, so your stitch count goes up by one without dropping or casting on.

The step-by-step motion for M1R

Insert your left needle from front to back under the horizontal strand that runs between the stitch you just knit and the next stitch on your left needle. The strand should sit on top of your needle. Bring your right needle around and knit this lifted strand through the back loop — that is, insert your right needle from right to left through the back of the loop on your left needle, wrap yarn, and pull through.

The back-loop entry is what makes M1R lean right. If you knit through the front loop instead, the stitch twists and leans the opposite direction. Many knitters find it helpful to pause after lifting the strand and make sure it sits clearly on the left needle before knitting it, because a loose or unclear strand can slip off.

After you knit the lifted strand, you have added one stitch. Continue knitting the next stitch on your left needle as normal. The new stitch sits between where you lifted the strand and the stitch you just completed.

M1R versus M1L and when to use each

M1L (make one left) lifts the strand from back to front and knits it through the front loop, creating a left-leaning increase. In a fitted garment, you would use M1R on the right edge and M1L on the left edge so both increases lean toward the center of the piece. This symmetry is invisible to the eye but matters to how the fabric sits.

If a pattern does not specify which increase to use, a yarn-over (YO) works in its place, though it leaves a small hole. M1R and M1L are preferred in garments where you want the shaping to disappear into the fabric — sweaters, fitted sleeves, and structured pieces. In lace patterns, the designer usually specifies which increase because the lean is part of the stitch pattern's visual design.

Common mistakes and how to fix them

The most frequent error is knitting the lifted strand through the front loop instead of the back loop, which reverses the lean. If you do this consistently, your increases will lean left instead of right. Check your last few increases by looking at them from the front of your work — the new stitch should slope to the right.

Another mistake is lifting the strand too loosely, which causes it to slip off the needle before you knit it. Pinch the strand gently between your left needle and your left hand while you insert your right needle and knit. If the strand does slip, you can usually pick it back up with your left needle and try again without unraveling.

Some knitters accidentally knit into the wrong strand — the one below the correct one. The correct strand is the one that sits directly between the stitch you just completed and the next stitch waiting on your left needle. If you are unsure, look at where your working yarn exits your last completed stitch and lift the strand that runs from that point toward your left needle.

Where M1R appears in patterns

Raglan sleeve patterns use M1R and M1L on both sides of the raglan line to create symmetrical shaping. You might see instructions like "M1R, knit to 2 stitches before the marker, M1L, slip marker" repeated every few rows. The increases stay invisible while the sleeve widens evenly.

Fitted waist shaping in sweaters often calls for M1R and M1L at specific points to add width without creating holes. Shawl patterns sometimes use M1R in the body to add stitches gradually, though many shawl patterns prefer yarn-overs because the holes are part of the design.

If you are reading a pattern and see "inc" or "increase" without specifying the method, check the pattern's abbreviation key. Some designers use "inc" to mean M1R, while others mean a knit-front-and-back increase (KFB). Always check the key rather than assuming.

Practicing M1R on a swatch

Cast on 20 stitches and knit 4 rows in stockinette stitch (knit on the right side, purl on the wrong side). On row 5, knit 5 stitches, then perform an M1R, knit 5 stitches, perform another M1R, and knit to the end. Knit the next row normally. Repeat this every 4 rows until you have added 6 or 8 increases.

As you work, watch how the new stitches sit in the fabric. They should blend in and lean slightly to the right. If they look twisted or lean the wrong direction, check that you are knitting through the back loop. A practice swatch takes 20 minutes and builds the muscle memory so the motion feels automatic when you are working on an actual garment.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the difference between M1R and KFB?

KFB (knit front and back) creates an increase by knitting into the same stitch twice — once through the front loop and once through the back loop. M1R lifts a strand between stitches instead. KFB is bulkier and leaves a small bump; M1R is nearly invisible. Patterns specify which one to use because they look different.

Can I use M1R on the left side of a piece?

Yes, but M1L looks better there because it leans toward the center. M1R on the left side will lean away from the center, which can look off-balance in a fitted garment. If a pattern does not specify, use M1R on the right and M1L on the left for symmetrical shaping.

What if I cannot find the strand to lift?

The strand sits on the row you just completed, running horizontally between the stitch your working yarn comes from and the next stitch on your left needle. If the yarn is too tight, loosen it slightly. If you are working too fast, pause and look at the base of your stitches — the strand is always there.

Does M1R count as a yarn-over?

No. A yarn-over wraps yarn around the needle and leaves a hole. M1R lifts an existing strand and knits it, creating a solid stitch with no hole. They are different increases used for different effects.