M1R creates a new stitch by lifting the bar between two stitches and knitting it through the back loop

M1R stands for "make one right" and is an increase that leans to the right on your finished fabric. You lift the horizontal strand of yarn that sits between the stitch you just knitted and the next stitch on your needle, then knit into the back of that lifted loop. The result is a small, directional hole that slopes right — useful for shaping edges, creating decorative increases, or working paired increases that mirror each other.

M1R is different from a yarn over or a knit-front-and-back increase because it uses existing yarn rather than creating a new strand. This makes it less visible and more refined, especially in lace patterns or fitted garments where you want the increase to blend in.

Key Takeaways

  • M1R lifts the bar between two stitches and knits through the back loop, creating a right-leaning increase.
  • The bar you lift runs horizontally between the stitch you just worked and the next stitch waiting on your left needle.
  • Knitting through the back loop (not the front) is what makes the increase lean right instead of left.
  • M1R pairs with M1L (make one left) to create balanced, symmetrical shaping on both sides of a garment.

Step-by-step: How to work M1R on a knit row

Knit the stitch before where you want the increase. You now have one stitch on your right needle and your working yarn is attached to it. Look at the space between that right needle and your left needle — you will see a small horizontal bar of yarn connecting the base of the stitch you just made to the base of the next stitch waiting on your left needle.

Insert your left needle from front to back under that horizontal bar, lifting it onto your needle. The bar should sit on your needle like a new stitch, with the needle passing underneath it. Now you have two needles holding yarn: your right needle with the completed stitch, and your left needle with the lifted bar.

Insert your right needle into the back loop of the lifted bar (not the front loop — this is the key step that makes it lean right). Wrap your working yarn around the right needle and knit the stitch. Slip the lifted bar off your left needle. You have now created one new stitch, and your stitch count has increased by one.

M1R on a purl row works the same way, with one change

When you are working on a purl row and need to increase, you still lift the bar between stitches the same way. Insert your left needle from front to back under the horizontal bar and lift it onto your needle.

The difference is that you purl into the back loop of the lifted bar instead of knitting into it. Insert your right needle into the back loop from right to left, wrap your yarn, and purl the stitch. The result is the same: a right-leaning increase that matches the direction of an M1R worked on a knit row.

Why M1R leans right and how it pairs with M1L

M1R leans right because you knit into the back loop of the lifted bar. When you knit into the back loop, the new stitch twists in a way that makes it slope toward the right side of your fabric. If you knitted into the front loop instead, the increase would lean left — that is M1L (make one left).

Designers use M1R and M1L together on opposite sides of a garment to create balanced shaping. For example, on a raglan sleeve cap, you might work M1R at the right edge and M1L at the left edge on the same row. The increases mirror each other visually, creating a professional, symmetrical look.

Common mistakes and how to fix them

The most common error is knitting into the front loop instead of the back loop. If you do this, your increase will lean left instead of right. Check your pattern to see which direction you need; if you made the wrong one, you can usually frog back one row and redo it, or accept it if the mistake is not visible from the right side of the fabric.

Another mistake is lifting the wrong bar. Make sure you are lifting the bar that sits between the stitch you just completed and the next stitch on your left needle — not a bar from two rows down or from a different part of the row. The bar should be at the base of your stitches, running horizontally.

If your increase creates a hole that is too large, you may not be inserting your needle far enough into the back loop. Push your needle all the way through the back loop so the new stitch sits firmly on your needle before you wrap and knit.

When to use M1R in your projects

M1R appears in fitted garments, especially where you need invisible or nearly invisible increases. Raglan sleeves, waist shaping, and sleeve cap increases often call for M1R and M1L pairs. Lace patterns also use M1R because the increase is small and directional, allowing the designer to control how the pattern flows.

You will also see M1R in patterns that ask for "paired increases" or "balanced increases." Whenever a pattern says "M1R at each edge" or "M1R and M1L," it means you should work M1R on one side and M1L on the other to create a mirror effect.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the difference between M1R and a yarn over?

A yarn over creates a deliberate hole by wrapping yarn around the needle without working a stitch. M1R uses existing yarn and creates a nearly invisible increase. Use M1R when you want to add stitches without a visible hole, and yarn over when the hole is part of the design.

Can I use M1R on ribbed fabric?

Yes, but it works best if you work it in the knit column rather than the purl column. If your pattern does not specify, work M1R into a knit stitch to keep the ribbing pattern clear. On a purl column, the increase may look awkward because it breaks the vertical line.

Do I count the lifted bar as a stitch before I knit it?

No. The bar is not yet a stitch — it is just yarn. Once you knit into the back loop of the lifted bar, it becomes a stitch. Your stitch count increases by one at that moment.

What if my pattern says M1 without specifying R or L?

Some patterns use M1 to mean either direction, usually because the increase is not paired with another one and the direction does not matter for the design. In that case, you can work M1R or M1L — either one will add a stitch. If the pattern is not clear, check the schematic or finished measurements to see whether the increase should lean a particular way.