The two main ways to create a buttonhole

A buttonhole in knitting is a deliberate gap you make in your fabric to thread a button through. The two methods that work best are the yarn over buttonhole (which creates a small, neat hole) and the bind-off buttonhole (which creates a larger, more structured opening). Which one you choose depends on the size of your button and how much structure you want the hole to have.

The yarn over method works well for small buttons and takes just one row to complete. The bind-off method takes two rows but gives you a cleaner edge and works better for larger buttons or heavier fabrics. Both are worked on the right side of your garment, usually on a row where you're knitting normally.

Key Takeaways

  • A yarn over buttonhole is made in a single row by creating a decrease and yarn over on the same row, and it works best for small buttons.
  • A bind-off buttonhole spans two rows: you bind off stitches on one row, then cast them back on the next row, creating a larger hole.
  • Plan your buttonhole placement before you start knitting by marking the rows where each button will sit.
  • Test your buttonhole size with your actual button before you finish the garment, because a hole that's too tight will stretch and a hole that's too loose will let the button slip through.

The yarn over buttonhole: one-row method

This is the quickest buttonhole and the one most knitters learn first. On the row where you want the hole, knit to the point where the buttonhole should start. Then work a decrease (knit two together or slip, slip, knit) to remove one stitch, and when ready make a yarn over to add one stitch back. This creates a small hole where the decrease and yarn over sit side by side.

The yarn over leaves a visible loop that becomes the buttonhole. On the next row, you knit across normally—the yarn over becomes a regular stitch and the hole stays open. This method works best for buttons smaller than half an inch across. For a slightly larger hole, you can work two decreases and two yarn overs in the same row, spacing them one or two stitches apart.

The bind-off buttonhole: two-row method

This method creates a more defined buttonhole with finished edges, and it's the choice for larger buttons or garments that will get heavy use. On the first row, knit to where the buttonhole should be. Bind off the number of stitches you want the hole to span (usually two to four stitches, depending on button size). Finish the row normally.

On the next row, knit to the bound-off gap. Using the cable cast-on or another cast-on method, cast the same number of stitches back onto your needle. Then knit to the end of the row. The cast-on stitches fill the gap and create a buttonhole with a neat, finished edge on both sides. This method is sturdier than the yarn over and won't stretch as easily with repeated buttoning.

Planning buttonhole placement before you start

The best time to decide where your buttonholes go is before you cast on. Count how many buttons your garment will have, then divide the length of the button band evenly. If you're making a cardigan with five buttons, space them roughly the same distance apart from the bottom edge to the neckline. Mark these rows on your pattern or on a piece of paper so you don't forget where they should be.

For a button band that runs vertically up the front of a cardigan, the first buttonhole usually sits one or two rows up from the cast-on edge, and the last one sits one or two rows down from where you'll bind off. This keeps buttons from sitting right at the very edge, where they can catch or pull. If you're working from a published pattern, the pattern will tell you exactly which rows to use.

Matching buttonhole size to your button

The hole needs to be large enough for the button to pass through without stretching the fabric, but not so large that the button falls through. A good test is to thread your actual button through the hole before you finish the garment. The button should slide through with a little resistance—if it's too tight, you'll stretch the hole every time you button the garment, and if it's too loose, the button won't stay fastened.

If your buttonhole is too small, you can gently stretch it by working the hole with a tapestry needle and blocking the garment. If it's too large, you've already knitted past it, so the fix is to unravel back to that row and redo the buttonhole with fewer stitches. This is why testing with your actual button before you finish is worth the five minutes it takes.

Fixing a buttonhole that went wrong

If you accidentally skipped a buttonhole row or made the hole in the wrong place, you have two options. The first is to unravel back to that row, fix the buttonhole, and knit forward again. This is tedious but guarantees a clean result. The second is to use a crochet hook to create a buttonhole after the fact by carefully pulling yarn through the stitches where the hole should be, but this method is visible and not as neat.

If the hole is slightly off-center or slightly the wrong size but still usable, it's often worth leaving it as is. Buttonholes are functional, and a button that fits through the hole will hide minor imperfections. If the hole is truly unusable—too large, torn, or in the completely wrong spot—unraveling is the cleaner choice.

Working buttonholes in different stitch patterns

If your button band is worked in ribbing (knit one, purl one), make your buttonhole on a knit row so the hole lines up with the knit stitches and sits flush with the pattern. If your band is garter stitch (knit every row), the buttonhole will look the same no matter which row you work it on. For stockinette stitch (knit on right-side rows, purl on wrong-side rows), always work the buttonhole on a right-side row so the hole sits on the front of the garment where it's visible and functional.

Textured stitches like seed stitch or moss stitch can hide a buttonhole slightly, so you may need to make it one stitch larger than you would in stockinette. Test with your button to be sure. The principle stays the same: the buttonhole should be worked on a row where you're actively knitting, not purling, so you can see what you're doing and the hole sits on the right side of the fabric.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I make a buttonhole in the middle of a sweater body, not just on the button band?

Yes, but it's less common. You would use the same yarn over or bind-off method, but the hole will be more visible because it sits in the main fabric rather than on an edge. Buttonholes in the body of a garment are usually decorative or functional (like for a drawstring to pass through) rather than for actual buttons. Work it the same way you would on a button band.

What if my button is very large or oddly shaped?

Measure the widest part of the button and make your buttonhole slightly larger than that measurement. A square or rectangular button may need a buttonhole that's wider than it is tall. Test the button through the hole before you finish the garment. If it's a very large button, the bind-off method will give you a more stable hole than the yarn over method.

Do I need to reinforce the buttonhole edges?

For most garments, no. The knitted stitches around the hole are strong enough on their own. If you're making a garment from a delicate yarn or one that will get heavy use, you can reinforce the buttonhole by working a few stitches of single crochet around the edge after you finish knitting, but this is optional and changes the look of the hole.

How many stitches should I bind off for a bind-off buttonhole?

Usually two to four stitches, depending on your button size and yarn weight. A small button on fingering-weight yarn might need only two stitches bound off. A large button on bulky yarn might need four. The best approach is to make a test swatch, bind off different numbers of stitches, and see which one your button passes through comfortably.

Can I make a buttonhole on a circular needle?

Yes. Work the buttonhole on the row where you want it, using the same yarn over or bind-off method. If you're working in the round, you'll work the buttonhole on the round where it should appear, then continue knitting around. The principle is identical to working on straight needles.