Start with a sketch and a stitch count
Making a knit pattern means deciding what stitches go where, in what order, and for how many rows—then writing it down so you or someone else can follow it. You begin by sketching the shape you want (a sweater front, a dishcloth, a sock cuff) on graph paper, where each square represents one stitch and one row. This visual map is your foundation.
Count how many stitches wide your sketch is and how many rows tall. These numbers become your cast-on count and your total row count. If you want a 10-inch-wide piece and your yarn knits at 5 stitches per inch in stockinette stitch, you cast on 50 stitches. If you want it 8 inches tall at 7 rows per inch, you knit 56 rows. Write these numbers at the top of your pattern.
The graph paper approach works because knit stitches are roughly rectangular—wider than they are tall—so a square on the paper doesn't represent a perfect square in the finished fabric. This is why experienced pattern writers often note the stitch gauge (stitches per inch) and row gauge (rows per inch) right away. Without it, someone following your pattern in a different yarn might end up with a piece that's the wrong size.
Key Takeaways
- Graph paper with one square per stitch and row lets you map out your design visually before you write a single instruction.
- Your pattern must include the yarn weight, needle size, and stitch gauge so someone can reproduce your finished size.
- Write each row as a sequence of abbreviations (k for knit, p for purl, yo for yarn over) so the pattern is compact and scannable while knitting.
- Test your pattern by knitting it yourself in the yarn you specified, then measure the result to confirm the dimensions match what you promised.
- Charts work better than written rows for colorwork and textured patterns because the visual layout matches what you see on the needles.
Measure your gauge and choose your yarn
Before you finalize any numbers, knit a gauge swatch in the yarn and stitch pattern you plan to use. Cast on 20 to 30 stitches, knit in stockinette stitch (or whatever stitch your pattern will use) for 4 to 5 inches, bind off, and measure. Count how many stitches fit in 4 inches, then divide by 4 to get stitches per inch. Do the same for rows.
Write this gauge on your pattern in a clear spot—for example, "Gauge: 5 stitches and 7 rows = 1 inch in stockinette stitch on US 6 needles." If someone uses a different needle size or yarn, their gauge will change and so will their finished size. This is not a flaw in your pattern; it's why gauge matters. Always include the needle size you used.
Specify the yarn weight (fingering, sport, worsted, bulky) and yardage needed. If your pattern uses 800 yards, say so. If you used a specific yarn brand and color, list it—not because someone must use that exact yarn, but because it helps them pick a substitute with similar weight and fiber content.
Write out the pattern row by row
Once your sketch is finalized and your gauge is confirmed, translate each row into abbreviations. Standard abbreviations are k (knit), p (purl), yo (yarn over), k2tog (knit two together), ssk (slip, slip, knit), and so on. Write each row as a single line or a numbered sequence, depending on what's clearest.
For a straightforward stockinette rectangle, you might write:
Cast on 50 stitches. Row 1 (RS): Knit across. Row 2 (WS): Purl across. Repeat Rows 1–2 until piece measures 8 inches, ending on a WS row. Bind off.
For a pattern with shaping (increases or decreases), write out each row individually until the shaping is done, then you can use "repeat" instructions for the straight sections. For example:
Row 1 (RS): K2, M1, knit to last 2 stitches, M1, k2. Row 2 (WS): Purl across. Repeat Rows 1–2 six more times (14 stitches increased total). Work even in stockinette until piece measures 10 inches.
Always mark which rows are right-side (RS) and which are wrong-side (WS). This matters for colorwork, texture, and shaping. If your pattern has a repeat—a sequence of stitches that repeats across the row—put it in asterisks or brackets: *k2, p2; repeat from * to end.
Use charts for colorwork and texture
If your pattern includes color changes or a textured stitch pattern (cables, lace, bobbles), a chart is often clearer than written rows. A chart is a grid where each square represents one stitch, and each row of squares represents one row of knitting. Different symbols or colors in the squares show what stitch to work.
Create your chart on graph paper or use free charting software like Stitch Fiddle or Stitchmastery. Color in the squares to match your design, then create a legend that explains what each color or symbol means. For example, a white square might mean "knit on RS, purl on WS" and a black square might mean "purl on RS, knit on WS" (reverse stockinette).
Charts are read from bottom to top and right to left on right-side rows, left to right on wrong-side rows—the way you actually knit. This takes practice to read, but once you understand it, a chart shows you exactly what the finished piece will look like.
Test your pattern before sharing it
Knit your pattern exactly as written, using the yarn, needles, and gauge you specified. Measure the finished piece. Does it match the dimensions you promised? Are the shaping and stitch counts correct? Did you miss any abbreviations or make any math errors?
Ask a friend or fellow knitter to test-knit it too, if possible. They will catch unclear instructions and mistakes you missed. Note their feedback and revise the pattern before you consider it final.
Check your abbreviations against standard knitting abbreviations. If you use a non-standard term, define it. For example, if you write "M1L" (make one left), explain what that means or assume the reader knows it.
Format your pattern for readability
A finished pattern should have a clear structure: title, finished dimensions, yarn and needle requirements, gauge, abbreviations, and then the instructions. Use consistent formatting so the reader can scan it quickly.
Here's a basic template:
| Pattern Title | Your pattern name |
| Finished Size | Width × Height (e.g., 10" × 8") |
| Yarn | Weight, yardage, and fiber (e.g., Worsted weight, 800 yards, 100% wool) |
| Needles | Size and type (e.g., US 6, 24" circular) |
| Gauge | Stitches and rows per inch (e.g., 5 stitches and 7 rows = 1 inch in stockinette) |
| Abbreviations | List all abbreviations you use |
After the header, write the instructions in numbered steps or as a continuous sequence, whichever is clearer. Break long sections into paragraphs so the reader doesn't get lost.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do I need to use a specific software to write a knit pattern?
No. Graph paper and a pencil work fine for straightforward patterns. For charts, free tools like Stitch Fiddle or Stitchmastery are helpful but optional. Many knitters write patterns in a text editor or Word document. The key is clarity—whatever format you choose, make sure someone else can follow it.
What if my pattern has multiple sizes?
Write the smallest size in the main instructions, then put the larger sizes in parentheses or brackets. For example: "Cast on 40 (50, 60) stitches" means 40 for size small, 50 for medium, 60 for large. Repeat this for every number that changes. It's dense but saves space and keeps all sizes in one place.
How do I know if my stitch count is right?
After each row of shaping, count your stitches on the needle. Write down the count. If your pattern says you should have 60 stitches after Row 10 and you have 58, you made a mistake somewhere. Recount and trace back through your increases and decreases to find it.
Can I use abbreviations I make up myself?
You can, but don't. Standard abbreviations (k, p, yo, k2tog, ssk, M1) are understood by all knitters. If you invent your own, you must define it clearly in the abbreviations section. It's easier to stick with what everyone knows.
What should I do if someone finds an error in my pattern?
Thank them, verify the error, and publish a corrected version. If you're sharing the pattern online, note the correction date and what changed. This builds trust and helps other knitters avoid the same mistake.