The two main ways to make buttonholes while you knit

A buttonhole in knitting is a deliberate gap in your fabric where a button will pass through. You create it by binding off a small number of stitches on one row, then casting new stitches back on in the same spot on the next row. The two methods that work best for most projects are the one-row buttonhole (fast, works for small buttons) and the two-row buttonhole (sturdier, better for larger buttons or heavy garments).

The one-row method takes just two rows total. The two-row method takes four rows but creates a reinforced edge around the hole. Both are worked into your knitting as you go—you do not cut or unravel anything afterward. Which one you choose depends on your button size and how much wear the buttonhole will take.

Key Takeaways

  • A one-row buttonhole binds off stitches on one row and casts them back on the next row, finishing in two rows total.
  • A two-row buttonhole spreads the bind-off and cast-on across two separate rows, creating a reinforced edge that holds up better on heavy garments.
  • You must know your button diameter before you knit so you can bind off the correct number of stitches—usually one stitch per quarter-inch of button width.
  • Both methods work best on stockinette stitch or other smooth fabrics; textured stitches can hide the buttonhole shape.
  • Test your buttonhole size on a swatch before committing to your finished piece.

How to work a one-row buttonhole

The one-row buttonhole is the quickest method. On the row where you want the hole, knit to the position where the buttonhole should start. Then bind off the number of stitches your button needs—typically 2 to 4 stitches for a small button, 4 to 6 for a medium button. To bind off, knit two stitches, pass the first stitch over the second, knit one more stitch, pass the previous stitch over it, and repeat until you have bound off the required number.

After binding off, you will have one live stitch on your right needle. Knit to the end of the row as normal. On the next row (the return row), when you reach the gap, cast new stitches back onto your left needle using the cable cast-on or long-tail cast-on. Cast on the same number of stitches you bound off. Then knit those new stitches and continue to the end of the row. The buttonhole is complete. The edges may curl slightly inward, which is normal and actually helps the button stay in place.

How to work a two-row buttonhole

The two-row buttonhole creates a more finished look and is stronger on garments that will be buttoned and unbuttoned frequently. On the first buttonhole row, knit to where the hole should start. Bind off the required number of stitches the same way you would for a one-row buttonhole. Knit to the end of the row. On the return row, knit across normally—do not cast any stitches back on yet.

On the next row (the second buttonhole row), knit to the gap again. This time, cast the stitches back on using the cable cast-on. Cast on the same number you bound off. Knit those new stitches and finish the row. On the return row, knit across normally. The buttonhole now has a reinforced edge on both sides and will hold its shape better than a one-row hole.

Figuring out how many stitches to bind off

The size of your buttonhole depends on your button diameter and your gauge. Measure your button across the widest point. As a starting point, bind off one stitch for every quarter-inch of button width. So a half-inch button needs about 2 stitches bound off; a three-quarter-inch button needs about 3 stitches.

This is a rough guide because your stitch gauge affects the actual hole size. The only reliable way to know is to knit a small swatch in your yarn and stitch pattern, work a test buttonhole, and try your button through it. If the button falls through, bind off more stitches next time. If it is too tight, bind off fewer. Write down the number that works so you can use it for all the buttonholes in your project.

Positioning buttonholes on your garment

Plan your buttonhole placement before you start knitting. Measure the length of your button band—the vertical strip where buttons and buttonholes go. Divide that length by the number of buttons you need. This tells you the spacing between each buttonhole. Mark the rows where each buttonhole should sit using a stitch marker or a piece of scrap yarn.

The first buttonhole is usually placed one-half to one inch from the top edge, and the last one one-half to one inch from the bottom edge. This prevents the top and bottom of your garment from gaping. If you are working a cardigan, place buttonholes on the right front for a woman's garment or the left front for a man's garment, following the convention of your pattern.

Common mistakes and how to avoid them

The most common error is binding off too many or too few stitches, which makes the buttonhole too large or too small. Test on a swatch first—this takes 15 minutes and saves you from ripping out an entire front panel. The second mistake is forgetting to cast stitches back on, which leaves a permanent hole instead of a buttonhole. Mark your pattern clearly so you remember to cast on the return row.

A third issue is working buttonholes on a textured stitch like seed stitch or cable, where the hole shape becomes hard to see and the edges look messy. Buttonholes work best on smooth stitches like stockinette, garter stitch, or reverse stockinette. If your pattern calls for buttonholes on a textured stitch, consider switching to stockinette for just the button band, or use a reinforcement method like picking up stitches around the hole and working a few rows of stockinette before binding off.

Reinforcing buttonholes on heavy fabrics

On thick yarns or garments that will take heavy use—like a wool coat or a child's sweater—buttonholes can stretch out over time. You can reinforce them by working a row of single crochet around the edge of the hole after you finish knitting. Use a crochet hook one size smaller than your needle and yarn in a matching color. Work one single crochet in each stitch around the hole, including the cast-on and bind-off edges.

Another option is to sew a small rectangle of interfacing or ribbon behind the buttonhole on the inside of the garment. This is especially useful if your yarn is slippery or your buttonhole edges look loose. Sew around the perimeter of the hole with thread that matches your yarn, being careful not to sew the hole shut.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I make buttonholes on circular needles?

Yes. If you are working in the round, you still bind off and cast on stitches the same way. The only difference is that you will work the return row as part of the next round rather than turning your work. Mark the buttonhole location clearly so you do not lose track of where it is as you work around.

What if my button is an unusual shape?

Measure the widest point of the button and use that measurement to calculate stitch count. If your button is very thick or has a shank, you may need to bind off slightly more stitches than the width alone suggests. Always test on a swatch first.

Can I add buttonholes after the garment is finished?

Yes, but it is more difficult. You would need to pick up stitches around the hole location, work a few rows, and bind off. This method is visible and less neat than working buttonholes as you knit. It is best reserved for emergency repairs or very small adjustments.

Do I need to block buttonholes?

Light blocking can help buttonholes look neater, especially if the edges curl. Pin the hole to the correct size on a blocking board and steam gently, or soak and pin to dry. Do not pull the hole larger than your button—let it settle to its natural size.

What stitch should I use for the button band itself?

Garter stitch and stockinette are both common. Garter stitch (knit every row) is thicker and does not curl, so it is good for cardigans. Stockinette (knit one row, purl one row) is thinner and shows buttonholes clearly. Choose based on the weight and style of your garment.