What purling is and why you need it
A purl stitch is the reverse of a knit stitch. Where a knit stitch pulls the working yarn toward you and through the loop from back to front, a purl stitch pushes the yarn away and pulls it through from front to back. On the finished fabric, a purl stitch looks like a bump or ridge on the side facing you, while a knit stitch looks smooth and V-shaped.
You need to know how to purl because most knitting patterns combine knit and purl stitches to create texture and structure. Ribbing — the stretchy cuff on a sweater or sock — is made by alternating knit and purl stitches in the same row. Garter stitch, which looks the same on both sides, is made by purling every row if you started with knit rows. Stockinette stitch, the smooth fabric used for most garments, is made by knitting one row and purling the next, over and over.
Without the purl stitch, you can only make garter stitch (all knits), which is thick and less refined than most finished pieces. Learning to purl opens up nearly every pattern in existence.
Key Takeaways
- A purl stitch is worked by holding the yarn in front of your needles and pulling it through the loop from front to back, the opposite direction of a knit stitch.
- The working yarn stays in front of the needle for the entire purl stitch, unlike a knit stitch where it stays in back.
- Your hands and needle movements stay the same; only the yarn position and direction of the needle change.
- Purling every row creates garter stitch, while alternating knit and purl rows creates stockinette stitch, the most common fabric in knitting patterns.
- Most knitters find purling slower and more tiring than knitting at first, but speed and comfort improve with practice.
How to hold the yarn for a purl stitch
Before you move the needle, move the yarn. Bring your working yarn to the front of your work, between the two needles. If you just finished a knit stitch, the yarn is already in back, so you will need to move it forward deliberately. This is the single most important step — if the yarn is in the wrong place, the stitch will not form correctly.
Keep the yarn at the same tension you use for knit stitches. If you hold it over your index finger or pinched between your thumb and finger, do the same for purling. The only difference is the position: front instead of back.
Once the yarn is in front, keep it there for the entire purl stitch. Do not let it slip back behind the needle until you have completed the stitch and moved on to the next one.
The step-by-step motion of a purl stitch
Insert the right needle through the loop on the left needle from right to left — that is, from the front of your work toward the back. This is the opposite direction from a knit stitch. The right needle tip should go in front of the loop, not behind it.
Wrap the working yarn around the right needle tip, moving it from left to right and then down and under, so the yarn makes a small loop around the needle. This motion is the same as in a knit stitch, just with the yarn starting in front instead of in back.
Pull the right needle back through the loop on the left needle, bringing the new loop with it. The new stitch slides onto the right needle. Drop the old loop off the left needle. You have completed one purl stitch.
Repeat this motion for every stitch across the row. Your right needle will gradually fill with new stitches while your left needle empties.
Common mistakes when learning to purl
The most frequent error is forgetting to bring the yarn to the front before starting. If you purl with the yarn in back, you will accidentally create an extra loop and distort the stitch. Check the yarn position before every purl stitch until it becomes automatic.
The second common mistake is inserting the needle in the wrong direction. A purl stitch requires the needle to enter from the front; if you insert it from the back like a knit stitch, the loop will twist and look wrong. Slow down and watch the needle tip as it goes through the loop.
A third mistake is pulling the yarn too tight or too loose. Purling requires the same tension as knitting. If you pull hard on the yarn, your purled stitches will be smaller and tighter than your knit stitches, creating an uneven fabric. If you leave the yarn loose, the purled stitches will be sloppy. Aim for the same tension you use for knit stitches.
Many new knitters also find that purling is slower and more tiring than knitting. This is normal. Your hands are not yet used to the motion, and you are thinking through each step. With practice over several projects, purling becomes as automatic as knitting, and your speed will match.
Practicing purl stitches in garter stitch
The easiest way to practice purling is to knit a swatch in garter stitch using only purl stitches. Cast on 20 to 30 stitches using your preferred method. Purl every stitch in every row for at least 10 rows. This gives you repetition without the mental load of switching between knit and purl in the same row.
Garter stitch made entirely of purl rows looks identical to garter stitch made entirely of knit rows — bumpy and textured on both sides. This means you cannot tell if you made a mistake by looking at the finished fabric, so focus instead on how the stitches feel and how even they look on the needle.
After you are comfortable purling every row, try a straightforward ribbed pattern: knit one stitch, purl one stitch, all the way across, then repeat this pattern for every row. This forces you to switch between knit and purl and helps you build the muscle memory for moving the yarn in and out.
Moving from practice to real patterns
Once you can purl without thinking about the yarn position or needle direction, you are ready for a straightforward pattern that uses both knit and purl stitches. A basic stockinette stitch project — knit one row, purl one row, repeat — is the next logical step. Stockinette is the most common stitch in knitting patterns, so this skill will open up thousands of options.
Start with a small project like a dishcloth or a straightforward scarf. These projects are forgiving if your tension is uneven or your edges are messy, and they finish quickly enough that you stay motivated. Avoid complex colorwork or shaping until purling feels as natural as knitting.
As you work through projects, you will notice that your purl stitches gradually match your knit stitches in size and tension. This is the sign that you have moved from learning to doing. At that point, you can tackle any pattern that interests you.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is purling supposed to feel harder than knitting?
Yes, at first. Purling requires the yarn to be in front, which feels awkward if you are used to knitting with the yarn in back. Your hands have to work slightly differently, and the motion is less intuitive for most people. This discomfort fades after a few projects as your muscle memory builds.
What if I keep dropping stitches when I purl?
Dropped stitches usually mean the yarn is slipping off the needle before the stitch is complete. Make sure you are wrapping the yarn all the way around the needle tip and pulling it through completely before you move to the next stitch. Also check that the old stitch actually comes off the left needle — sometimes it gets stuck if the tension is too tight.
Can I purl if I knit continental style?
Yes. Continental knitters hold the yarn in their left hand and use the needle to pick it up. For purling, you still bring the yarn to the front, but the picking motion changes slightly because the yarn is already closer to the front. The principle is the same: yarn in front, needle in from the front, wrap and pull through.
Why do my purl stitches look bigger than my knit stitches?
You are probably pulling the yarn tighter on purl stitches than on knit stitches, or the needle is going through the loop at a slightly different angle. Try loosening your grip on the yarn and watching the needle angle in a mirror. Consistency in tension and needle angle across both stitch types takes practice.
Do I have to purl if I only want to make garter stitch?
No. Garter stitch can be made by knitting every row, which means you never have to purl. However, most patterns use stockinette or ribbing, both of which require purling. Learning to purl now will save you from hitting a wall when you want to make a sweater or a fitted garment.