What a Purl Stitch Is and Why You Need It
A purl stitch is the reverse of a knit stitch. When you knit, the yarn sits in front of your needle and you insert the needle from left to right; when you purl, the yarn sits in front and you insert the needle from right to left, pulling the loop toward you instead of pushing it away. The result looks bumpy on the side facing you and smooth on the back—the exact opposite of a knit stitch.
You need to learn to purl because most knitting patterns alternate between knit and purl rows, or mix them within a single row. Ribbed fabric (the stretchy cuffs on sweaters), garter stitch (bumpy on both sides), and stockinette stitch (smooth on one side, bumpy on the other) all require you to purl. Without this stitch, you can only make one texture, and your projects will look flat and one-dimensional.
Key Takeaways
- A purl stitch is worked with the yarn in front of your needles, and you insert your working needle from right to left instead of left to right.
- The motion feels awkward at first because it is the opposite of a knit stitch, but muscle memory builds after 10 to 15 minutes of practice.
- Common beginner mistakes include dropping the yarn too early, inserting the needle at the wrong angle, and pulling too tight on the working yarn.
- You should practice purling on a practice swatch using worsted-weight yarn and size 8 to 10 needles before attempting a real project.
- Once you can knit and purl smoothly, you can make ribbed fabric, garter stitch, and stockinette stitch—the foundation of almost all knitting patterns.
Set Up Your Needles and Yarn
Cast on 20 stitches using the long-tail cast-on or any method you already know. Use worsted-weight yarn (medium thickness) and needles sized 8 to 10 US—these are forgiving and let you see your stitches clearly. Thinner yarn and smaller needles make purl stitches harder to see and harder to work into.
Knit one full row. This gives you a row of knit stitches to purl into, which is easier than purling into cast-on stitches. Turn your work so the working yarn is on the right side of your needles. You are now ready to purl.
Hold the Yarn in Front
This is the first and most important difference between knit and purl. Bring your working yarn to the front of your work, between the needles. If you are holding yarn in your right hand (English style), let it drape over your index finger. If you are holding yarn in your left hand (Continental style), let it rest on your index finger in front of the needles.
The yarn must stay in front for every purl stitch in the row. If it drifts to the back, your stitch will turn into a knit stitch by accident. This is the most common beginner mistake. Check the yarn position before you insert your needle into each stitch.
Insert the Needle and Pull the Loop
Hold the needle with your cast-on stitches in your left hand. Take your working needle (the empty one) in your right hand. Insert the working needle through the first stitch on the left needle from right to left—the opposite direction of a knit stitch. The tip of your working needle should pass through the stitch and come out on the side closest to you.
Wrap the working yarn around the tip of your working needle, going underneath and then over the top. The yarn should make a small loop around the needle. Pull the working needle back toward you, drawing the new loop through the old stitch. Slide the old stitch off the left needle. You have completed one purl stitch.
Repeat this motion for every stitch across the row. Work slowly—speed comes later. Aim for even tension: not so tight that the stitches are hard to work into, and not so loose that they slide around on the needle.
Common Mistakes and How to Fix Them
Dropping the yarn too early. If you pull the working yarn away from the needle before the new loop is fully formed, the stitch will unravel or twist. Keep the yarn wrapped around the needle until you have pulled the loop all the way through.
Inserting the needle at the wrong angle. The needle should go straight through the stitch, not at a slant. A slanted insertion makes the stitch tight and hard to work into on the next row. Practice inserting the needle perpendicular to the left needle.
Pulling too tight on the working yarn. New knitters often cinch the yarn hard after each stitch, which makes the stitches small and stiff. The working yarn should be snug but not strangled. If your stitches are hard to work into, loosen your tension slightly.
Forgetting to bring the yarn to the front. If you purl a stitch with the yarn in the back, it becomes a knit stitch. Before you start each row, check that the yarn is in front. Glance at it before every few stitches until the habit is automatic.
Practice Purl Rows Until They Feel Natural
Knit one row, then purl one row, and repeat this pattern for at least 10 rows. This creates garter stitch, which looks bumpy on both sides. Garter stitch is the best practice fabric because you can see every stitch clearly and mistakes are obvious.
After 10 to 15 minutes of practice, the motion will start to feel less strange. Your hands will remember the path the needle takes and the position of the yarn. Do not rush to a real project yet. Spend at least 20 to 30 minutes on a practice swatch so that purling becomes automatic, not something you have to think about.
If your stitches look uneven or lumpy, that is normal. Beginner purl stitches are often looser than knit stitches because the motion is unfamiliar. This evens out with practice. Keep going.
What to Do When You Drop a Stitch
A dropped stitch is a loop that has slipped off the needle. On a practice swatch, the easiest fix is to pull out the row back to the dropped stitch, then knit or purl back up to where you were. This takes 30 seconds and teaches you how stitches connect.
If you do not want to rip back, you can pick up a dropped stitch with a crochet hook. Insert the hook through the dropped loop from front to back, catch the horizontal strand of yarn above it, and pull the strand through the loop. Repeat this for each row the stitch has dropped, then place the stitch back on your left needle. This is fiddly but works.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why does my purl stitch look different from my knit stitch?
A purl stitch has a bump on the front and a smooth V on the back. A knit stitch has a smooth V on the front and a bump on the back. They are supposed to look different. When you alternate knit and purl rows, the bumps and Vs create different textures. This is intentional and correct.
How tight should I pull the working yarn?
The yarn should be snug enough that the stitch does not slide around, but loose enough that you can insert your needle into it easily on the next row. If you have to force the needle in, you are pulling too tight. If the stitch spins on the needle, you are too loose. Aim for the middle ground.
Can I purl if I knit Continental style?
Yes. In Continental style, the yarn stays on your left index finger. To purl, bring the yarn to the front of the needles (it may already be there), insert the needle from right to left, and use your left index finger to wrap the yarn around the needle tip. The motion is slightly different but the result is the same.
What happens if I accidentally knit when I meant to purl?
You will create a knit stitch instead of a purl stitch. On a practice swatch, this creates a small smooth spot in a bumpy row. On a real project, it can break the pattern. If you notice it right away, drop back to that stitch and fix it. If you do not notice until later, you can usually leave it—one wrong stitch is rarely visible in a finished project.
How long until I can purl without thinking about it?
Most beginners can purl without conscious thought after 30 to 45 minutes of practice. The motion becomes automatic, like typing. Until then, work slowly and check your yarn position often. Speed and smoothness come naturally once the motion is familiar.