What a purl stitch is and how it differs from knit

A purl stitch is the reverse of a knit stitch. When you knit, you insert your needle from front to back and pull the yarn through to create a smooth V-shaped bump on the front of your fabric. When you purl, you insert your needle from back to front and pull the yarn through to create a bump on the back of your fabric instead. From the front, a purl row looks bumpy and textured, while a knit row looks smooth.

The two stitches are mirror images of each other. If you flip a knitted piece over, the back looks like purling, and the back of purling looks like knitting. Most knitting patterns use both stitches in combination to create different textures and patterns. Garter stitch (knit every row) looks the same on both sides because knit and purl bumps stack on top of each other. Stockinette stitch (knit one row, purl one row) creates the smooth V pattern you see on most sweaters and scarves.

Key Takeaways

  • A purl stitch inserts the needle from back to front with the yarn held in front, the opposite of a knit stitch.
  • The motion is the same as knitting—wrap, insert, pull through—but the needle direction and yarn position are reversed.
  • Purling feels awkward at first because your hand position changes, but the muscle memory builds quickly with repetition.
  • Alternating knit and purl rows creates stockinette stitch, the most common fabric in knitting patterns.
  • If your purl stitches look loose or uneven, check that you are holding tension the same way you do for knit stitches.

How to hold the yarn for a purl stitch

The main difference between knit and purl is where you hold the yarn before you insert the needle. For a purl stitch, bring the yarn to the front of your work before you insert the needle. If you are using the English method (yarn in your right hand), hold the yarn in front of the needles at about the same height as your working needle. If you are using the Continental method (yarn in your left hand), bring the yarn forward between the needles so it sits in front of your work.

This yarn position is the opposite of knitting, where the yarn sits in the back. Many new knitters find this the hardest part of purling—remembering to move the yarn forward before each stitch. A helpful habit is to move your yarn to the front as the last step after finishing a knit row, so it is already in position when you start purling.

The four steps of a purl stitch

Once your yarn is in front, the purl stitch follows the same four-step pattern as a knit stitch, just in reverse direction.

Step 1: Insert the needle. Push your working needle (the right needle) through the first stitch on your left needle from right to left, so the needle goes in from the back of the stitch and comes out toward the front. This is the opposite of knitting, where you insert from front to back. The needles will form an X shape, with your working needle behind the left needle.

Step 2: Wrap the yarn. Bring the yarn around your working needle the same way you do for a knit stitch. If you use English method, wrap the yarn around the needle with your right hand. If you use Continental method, use your left index finger to guide the yarn around the needle. The wrap direction is the same as knitting—the yarn moves in a loop around the needle shaft.

Step 3: Pull the needle through. Draw your working needle back through the stitch, pulling the wrapped yarn with it. The new loop slides off the left needle and onto the working needle. You now have a new purl stitch on your right needle.

Step 4: Drop the old stitch. Let the original stitch slip off the left needle. You have completed one purl stitch. Repeat these four steps across the entire row.

Common mistakes when learning to purl

The most frequent error is forgetting to bring the yarn to the front before inserting the needle. If you insert the needle with the yarn still in the back, you will accidentally create a yarn over (an intentional hole used in lace patterns) instead of a purl stitch. Check your yarn position before every stitch until moving it forward becomes automatic.

Another common problem is purling too tightly. Because the motion feels less natural than knitting at first, many people unconsciously tense their hands and pull the yarn too hard. This creates purl stitches that are noticeably tighter than the knit stitches in the same row, making your fabric look uneven. Try to use the same tension and hand position you use for knitting. If your purls are still tight after a few rows, loosen your grip slightly and see if the tension evens out.

Some knitters also accidentally twist their purl stitches by inserting the needle in the wrong direction or wrapping the yarn the wrong way. If your purl stitches look crossed or distorted, slow down and watch your needle angle. The needle should go straight through the stitch from back to front, not at an angle.

Practicing purl stitch in garter and stockinette

The best way to build purl muscle memory is to practice in straightforward patterns. Garter stitch (knit every row) is all knit, so it does not help you practice purling. Instead, try a small swatch using stockinette stitch: knit one row, purl one row, and repeat. This alternating pattern forces you to switch between knit and purl on every row and shows you when ready whether your tension is even.

Cast on 20 stitches using your preferred method. Knit the first row. On row 2, bring your yarn to the front and purl across. On row 3, move your yarn to the back and knit across. Continue this pattern for at least 10 rows. You should see smooth V-shaped bumps on the knit rows and bumpy texture on the purl rows. If the purl rows look loose or tight compared to the knit rows, adjust your tension on the next purl row.

Once stockinette feels comfortable, try ribbed stitch (knit 1, purl 1 across each row). This pattern requires you to switch between knit and purl within the same row, moving your yarn back and forth constantly. Ribbed stitch is harder than stockinette but builds speed and accuracy faster because you practice the yarn movement more frequently.

When to use purl stitches in patterns

Most knitting patterns tell you exactly when to knit and when to purl. The pattern will say something like "Row 1: Knit across. Row 2: Purl across." or use abbreviations like "K" for knit and "P" for purl. Some patterns use charts with symbols instead of written instructions—a blank square usually means knit and a dot or X means purl.

Understanding why a pattern uses purl helps you remember when to use it. Stockinette stitch (knit one row, purl one row) creates a smooth, flat fabric that shows stitch definition clearly, so it is common in sweaters and blankets. Garter stitch (knit every row) creates a bumpy, stretchy fabric that looks the same on both sides, so it is often used for scarves and edges. Ribbed stitch (knit and purl alternating in the same row) creates vertical lines that stretch and recover, so it is used for cuffs and waistbands.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why do my purl stitches look different from my knit stitches?

Purl stitches naturally look bumpy while knit stitches look smooth, so they should look different. However, if your purl stitches are noticeably looser or tighter than your knit stitches in the same piece, you are likely using different tension. Try to hold the yarn at the same distance from the needle and pull with the same pressure on both knit and purl rows. Uneven tension usually evens out after a few rows of practice.

Do I have to move my yarn to the front for every purl stitch?

Yes. The yarn must be in front before you insert the needle for a purl stitch. If you forget and insert with the yarn in the back, you create a yarn over instead. This becomes automatic after you purl for a while, but in the beginning, it helps to move your yarn forward as soon as you finish each knit row.

Can I purl if I knit Continental style?

Yes. Continental purling uses the same yarn-in-left-hand position as Continental knitting. Bring the yarn forward between the needles before inserting, then use your left index finger to guide the yarn around the needle. Many Continental knitters find purling easier than English knitters because they do not have to switch hand positions.

What is the difference between a purl stitch and a yarn over?

A yarn over is created when you wrap the yarn around the needle without inserting through a stitch, leaving a hole in the fabric. A purl stitch inserts the needle through an existing stitch and pulls the yarn through. If you purl with the yarn in the back instead of the front, you accidentally create a yarn over. Always check that your yarn is in front before inserting the needle.

How long does it take to get comfortable purling?

Most knitters feel comfortable with purl stitches after 30 to 60 minutes of practice. The motion becomes automatic after you complete a few rows of stockinette or ribbed stitch. Speed comes later—many experienced knitters purl slower than they knit, and that is normal. Focus on even tension and correct needle angle first, and speed will follow naturally.