What purling is and why you need it
A purl stitch is the reverse of a knit stitch. Where a knit stitch pulls the working yarn toward you and inserts the needle from front to back, a purl stitch pushes the working yarn away and inserts the needle from back to front. The result looks different on the fabric—a purl creates a bump or ridge on the side facing you, while a knit creates a smooth V.
You need to know how to purl because most knitting patterns use both stitches together. A stockinette stitch (the smooth fabric you see on most sweaters) is made by knitting one row and purling the next row, back and forth. Ribbed fabric, which stretches and hugs, alternates knit and purl stitches on the same row. Seed stitch, garter stitch, and dozens of other textures all depend on combining knits and purls in different orders.
Without purling, you can only make garter stitch—knitting every row—which is bumpy on both sides. Learning to purl opens up almost every pattern that exists.
Key Takeaways
- A purl stitch inserts the needle from back to front with the yarn held in front, creating a bump on the working side of the fabric.
- The motion is the opposite of a knit stitch: instead of pulling yarn toward you, you push it away and work from the back of the loop.
- Purling feels awkward at first because your hand position changes and the yarn sits in front of the needle instead of behind it.
- Most knitting patterns require both knit and purl stitches, so learning to purl is necessary to move beyond garter stitch.
- Tension and rhythm improve with repetition; practicing rows of all purls or alternating knit and purl rows builds muscle memory faster than scattered practice.
How to hold the yarn for a purl stitch
The yarn position is the biggest difference between knit and purl. For a purl stitch, the working yarn must be in front of the needle at all times. If you use English-style tension (yarn held in your right hand), bring the yarn forward between the needles before you insert the needle. If you use Continental-style tension (yarn held in your left hand), the yarn is already in front when you're ready to purl—you don't have to move it.
This is why Continental knitters often find purling easier: the yarn doesn't have to move. English knitters have to bring the yarn forward before each purl and back before each knit, which takes an extra motion. Both methods work; the difference is just rhythm.
Check that the yarn is truly in front of both needles, not just resting on top of the right needle. If it's not positioned correctly, you'll accidentally create a yarn over (an unintended hole) instead of a purl.
The step-by-step purl motion
Start with the working yarn in front of the needle. Insert the right needle from right to left (back to front) through the loop on the left needle. This is the opposite direction from a knit stitch. The right needle goes in behind the loop, not in front of it.
Wrap the working yarn around the right needle, moving it from left to right underneath the needle. The yarn should make a complete loop around the shaft. This wrap is the same motion as a knit stitch—the difference is where the needle enters the loop.
Pull the right needle back through the loop, bringing the new loop with it. The old loop slides off the left needle. You now have one purl stitch on the right needle. The bumpy side of the stitch faces you.
Repeat this motion for each stitch across the row. Your rhythm will be slower at first, and that's normal. Most knitters purl more slowly than they knit because the hand position is less natural. Speed comes with repetition.
Common mistakes and how to fix them
The most frequent error is forgetting to bring the yarn to the front before purling. If you purl with the yarn in back, you've created a knit stitch instead. Check your fabric: if you see smooth Vs instead of bumps, your yarn was in the wrong place. The fix is straightforward—just move the yarn forward before the next purl.
Tension often becomes loose on purl rows, especially when you're learning. This happens because the motion is unfamiliar and your hands aren't yet coordinating smoothly. The stitches on a purl row may look bigger or looser than the stitches on a knit row. This evens out as you practice. If the difference bothers you, focus on keeping the same tension you use for knit stitches—don't squeeze the yarn tighter, just keep it consistent.
Another common issue is accidentally creating yarn overs between stitches. This happens when the yarn isn't brought far enough forward before you insert the needle, or when it drifts back as you work. The yarn should sit in front of the needle for the entire purl stitch. If you see small holes appearing in your fabric, check the yarn position.
Practicing purl rows and mixed stitches
The fastest way to build skill is to practice in this order: first, knit a few rows to warm up. Then purl an entire row. Then knit another row. Repeat this pattern for at least ten to fifteen rows. This teaches your hands the rhythm of switching between stitches without the added complexity of alternating them on the same row.
Once purling feels less awkward, try a stockinette stitch: knit one row, purl one row, repeat. This is the most common stitch in knitting and will feel natural after a few inches. Your fabric should look smooth on the knit side and bumpy on the purl side.
After stockinette feels solid, try seed stitch: knit one stitch, purl one stitch, all the way across the row. On the next row, purl where you knitted and knit where you purled. This creates a textured, bumpy fabric on both sides. Seed stitch is harder because you're switching stitches constantly, but it's excellent practice for hand coordination.
When to call in help or take a break
If your hands hurt or your wrists feel strained, stop and rest. Knitting should not cause pain. If purling hurts more than knitting, you may be tensioning the yarn too tightly or gripping the needles too hard. Loosen your grip and let the needles do the work.
If you've practiced for twenty or thirty minutes and purling still feels impossible, take a break. Muscle memory builds over days and weeks, not in a single session. Come back to it tomorrow. Most knitters find that a skill that felt awkward one day feels much more natural the next day, after their hands have had time to rest and process the motion.
If you're watching a video tutorial and the instructor's hand position looks completely different from yours, that's fine. There are many correct ways to hold needles and yarn. Find the position that feels least awkward for your hands and stick with it until it becomes automatic.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is purling harder than knitting?
Most knitters find purling slightly harder at first because the hand position is less intuitive and the motion feels backward. But purling isn't actually more difficult—it's just unfamiliar. After a few hours of practice, the difference in difficulty disappears. Some knitters eventually find purling just as fast as knitting.
Why does my purl row look looser than my knit row?
Tension naturally shifts when you switch stitches, especially while learning. Your hands aren't yet coordinating the yarn and needle movement smoothly, so stitches come out slightly larger. This evens out with practice. If the difference is very noticeable, check that you're not squeezing the yarn tighter on knit rows—keep the same tension throughout.
Can I knit without learning to purl?
You can make garter stitch (knitting every row) without purling, but almost all other patterns require both stitches. If you want to make sweaters, blankets, or anything with texture or drape, you'll need to purl. Learning it early saves frustration later.
What's the difference between English and Continental purling?
English knitters hold the yarn in their right hand and have to move it forward before each purl. Continental knitters hold the yarn in their left hand and the yarn is already in front, so they don't move it. Both methods produce the same stitch. Choose whichever matches the style you already knit in.
How long does it take to get comfortable purling?
Most knitters feel reasonably comfortable purling after three to five hours of practice spread over several days. You don't need to be fast—just consistent. After a few projects, purling becomes automatic and you stop thinking about it.