What Purl One, Knit One Actually Does

Purl one, knit one is a two-stitch pattern that alternates between a knit stitch and a purl stitch on every row. The result is a textured fabric called garter stitch when you repeat it — a bumpy, reversible cloth that looks the same on both sides. This pattern is one of the first things knitters learn because it builds rhythm and teaches you to switch between the two basic stitches without dropping your tension.

The pattern works the same way whether you are knitting flat (back and forth on straight needles) or in the round (on circular needles). The key is consistency: you purl the same stitch you knitted on the previous row, and knit the same stitch you purled. This creates the characteristic ridged texture.

Key Takeaways

  • Purl one, knit one means you alternate a purl stitch and a knit stitch across every row, always working the opposite stitch on the next row.
  • The pattern creates a bumpy, reversible fabric that looks identical on both sides.
  • You need to keep your yarn in the correct position — in front of the needles for purl, in back for knit — or the stitches will distort.
  • The rhythm of switching between knit and purl helps you develop even tension and muscle memory for both basic stitches.
  • This pattern works on any number of stitches and is forgiving of small mistakes because the texture hides uneven rows.

Setting Up Your Cast-On

Before you begin the pattern, you need an even number of stitches on your needle. If you cast on 20 stitches, you will have 10 pairs to work with. If you cast on 24, you will have 12 pairs. An odd number will throw off the pattern halfway through the row.

The cast-on method you use does not matter for this pattern — long-tail, cable, or any other method will work. What matters is that you count your stitches before you start the first row and confirm the number is even.

How to Work the First Row

Hold your needles with the cast-on stitches on your left needle and the working yarn on the right side of your work. Insert your right needle into the first stitch from left to right (as if you are about to knit), wrap the yarn around the needle, and pull through to create a knit stitch. This is your first stitch of the row.

For the second stitch, move your yarn to the front of your work (between the two needles). Insert your right needle into the next stitch from right to left (as if you are about to purl), wrap the yarn around, and pull through to create a purl stitch. Continue this pattern across the entire row: knit, purl, knit, purl, until you reach the end.

When you finish the row, turn your work around so the stitches you just made are now on your left needle, ready for the next row.

Working Subsequent Rows

On the second row, you reverse the pattern. The stitch that was a knit stitch on row one is now a purl stitch, and the stitch that was a purl stitch is now a knit stitch. This is the rule that creates the texture: you always work the opposite stitch.

Start row two by moving your yarn to the front and purling the first stitch (which was a knit stitch on the previous row). Then move your yarn to the back and knit the second stitch (which was a purl stitch on the previous row). Continue alternating across the row. When you finish, turn your work and repeat row two for as many rows as your pattern calls for.

The rhythm becomes automatic after a few rows: purl, knit, purl, knit on one row, then knit, purl, knit, purl on the next. Your hands will start to anticipate the yarn position change without you thinking about it.

Keeping Your Yarn in the Right Position

The most common mistake in this pattern is forgetting to move your yarn between the front and back of your work. If your yarn stays in the wrong position, you will accidentally create extra stitches or holes in your fabric.

Before you knit, your yarn should be behind the needles (away from you). Before you purl, your yarn should be in front of the needles (toward you). Develop the habit of moving your yarn first, then inserting your needle. This prevents you from working a stitch with the yarn in the wrong place.

If you notice a hole or an extra loop in your fabric, it usually means the yarn was in the wrong position for that stitch. You can usually fix it by dropping back a row or two and re-working those stitches, or you can leave it as a learning mark and move forward.

Recognizing Your Progress

After four or five rows, you will start to see the bumpy texture appear. Each bump represents a pair of stitches — one knit and one purl — stacked on top of each other. The fabric should feel squishy and reversible, with no smooth side and no bumpy side. If one side looks smooth and the other bumpy, you have accidentally switched to a different pattern (likely stockinette stitch).

The edges of your work should be relatively straight, though they may be slightly wavy if your tension is uneven. This is normal and will even out as you practice. The pattern itself is very forgiving because the texture hides small tension variations.

When to Use This Pattern

Purl one, knit one is useful for borders, edges, and small projects like dishcloths or scarves. Because the fabric is thick and squishy, it works well for items that need warmth or texture. It is less common for large garments because the thickness can make fitted pieces bulky.

Many knitters use this pattern as a border around the edge of a larger project worked in a different stitch. For example, you might knit the body of a sweater in stockinette stitch and then pick up stitches around the neckline and work a few rows of purl one, knit one to create a finished edge that will not curl.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the difference between purl one knit one and garter stitch?

Purl one, knit one is the pattern you work (alternating stitches on each row). Garter stitch is the texture that results from working this pattern. The terms are often used interchangeably because the pattern always produces garter stitch.

Can I use this pattern with an odd number of stitches?

Yes, but the pattern will not be symmetrical. With an odd number, one edge will always be a knit stitch and the other will always be a purl stitch. This can actually be useful if you want a specific edge finish, but it is not the traditional way to work the pattern.

Why does my fabric look loose or uneven?

Uneven tension usually comes from pulling too hard when you switch between knit and purl stitches. Try to keep the same amount of tension on every stitch, even when you move your yarn from front to back. It takes practice, but your tension will even out after a few projects.

Do I need to count stitches on every row?

No, but it is a good habit to count every few rows, especially when you are learning. If you accidentally drop a stitch or add one, catching it early makes it much easier to fix. After you have worked the pattern many times, you will be able to feel when something is wrong.

Can I purl one knit one in the round?

Yes. On circular needles, you work the same pattern: knit one, purl one all the way around. On the next round, you work purl one, knit one. The fabric will look the same as when you work it flat, with the same bumpy texture on both sides.