What the Purl Stitch Is and Why You Need It
The purl stitch is the reverse of the knit stitch—instead of inserting your needle from front to back, you insert it from back to front, and instead of wrapping yarn away from you, you wrap it toward you. When you alternate knit and purl stitches row by row, you create ribbing. When you purl every row, you create garter stitch (the same bumpy texture you get from knitting every row). Learning to purl doubles what you can make, because most patterns use both stitches together.
Many new knitters find purling awkward at first because the motion feels backward and the yarn sits in front of your work instead of behind it. This is normal. Your hands will adjust within a few practice rows, and the motion becomes automatic the same way knitting does.
Key Takeaways
- The purl stitch inserts the needle from back to front and wraps yarn toward you, creating the opposite texture of a knit stitch on the same side of the fabric.
- Hold your working yarn in front of your needles before you start a purl stitch, and keep it there throughout the motion.
- The four-step motion is: insert needle, wrap yarn, pull loop through, and slip the old stitch off—the same sequence as knitting, just in reverse direction.
- Practice purling on a swatch using worsted-weight yarn and size 8 or 9 needles, which are forgiving and let you see your stitches clearly.
- Alternating one row of knits with one row of purls creates 1×1 ribbing, the stretchy texture used in cuffs and waistbands.
Setting Up Your Yarn and Needles for Purling
Before you insert your needle, move your working yarn to the front of your work. If you just finished a knit row, the yarn is already behind the needles—bring it forward between the two needle tips. The yarn should sit on top of your index finger (if you use the English hold) or rest in front of your left hand (if you use the Continental hold). This position matters because it controls how much yarn wraps around your needle and how tight your stitches become.
Hold your needles the same way you do for knitting: the working needle (the one with stitches) in your left hand, the empty needle in your right hand. Your left thumb and index finger should pinch the base of the stitch you are about to work, just as they do for knitting. The only difference is that your yarn now hangs in front instead of behind.
The Four-Step Purl Motion
Insert your right needle through the stitch from back to front—this is the opposite direction from knitting. Push the needle tip through the loop so the right needle sits in front of the left needle, with the stitch sitting between both needle tips. This takes practice to do smoothly; many beginners push too hard or at the wrong angle. Go slowly and let the needle glide through.
Wrap your working yarn around the right needle tip, moving from right to left (or from bottom to top, depending on how you hold the yarn). If you use the English hold, your index finger flicks the yarn around the needle. If you use Continental, your left index finger moves slightly to wrap the yarn. The wrap should sit between the two needle tips, just as it does in knitting.
Pull the right needle backward and downward, drawing the wrapped yarn through the loop on the left needle. You now have a new loop on the right needle. This is the moment where many beginners accidentally drop stitches—keep gentle tension on the yarn so the new loop stays on the needle.
Slip the old stitch off the left needle by lifting the left needle tip up and away. The new purl stitch now sits on the right needle. You have completed one purl stitch.
Common Mistakes and How to Fix Them
The most frequent error is inserting the needle in the wrong direction. If you insert from front to back (the knit direction) while your yarn is in front, you create a twisted stitch that looks wrong and throws off your tension. Before you wrap yarn, pause and confirm the right needle is in front of the left needle, not behind it.
Loose purl stitches happen when you do not keep tension on the working yarn as you pull the new loop through. Pinch the base of the stitch with your left hand and hold the working yarn steady with your right hand (or left index finger, if Continental). Do not let the yarn go slack between the needle and your hand.
Accidentally knitting instead of purling is straightforward when you are switching between rows. Before you start a new row, check where your yarn is. If it is behind the needles, bring it forward. If you realize mid-row that you knitted when you meant to purl, you can drop back one stitch and fix it, but it is faster to prevent the mistake by checking yarn position first.
Practicing Purling on a Test Swatch
Cast on 12 to 16 stitches using worsted-weight yarn and size 8 or 9 needles. These materials are forgiving and make it straightforward to see what your stitches are doing. Knit the first row to warm up, then purl the second row. Repeat this pattern for at least 10 rows. You should see a bumpy, ridged texture emerge—this is 1×1 ribbing, and it means you are alternating knits and purls correctly.
If your purl stitches look loose or uneven compared to your knit stitches, your tension is probably changing between the two. This is normal at first. Keep practicing; your hands will learn to maintain the same tension regardless of stitch direction. After 20 or 30 rows of alternating knits and purls, the motion becomes automatic.
Once alternating rows feels comfortable, try purling an entire row. Cast on again and knit one row, then purl every stitch in the next row. Repeat: knit one row, purl one row. This creates garter stitch, which looks the same on both sides. Garter stitch is a good test of consistent purl tension because any loose stitches stand out when ready.
How Purl Stitches Combine with Knit Stitches
When you knit a stitch on one side of the fabric, a purl bump appears on the other side. This is why patterns use both stitches: to create texture and structure. The most common combination is 1×1 ribbing—one knit stitch, one purl stitch, repeated across the row. When you work the next row, you knit the purl stitches and purl the knit stitches. This creates vertical columns that stretch and recover, which is why ribbing appears in cuffs, waistbands, and necklines.
Another common pattern is stockinette stitch: knit one row, purl one row, repeat. This creates a smooth, V-shaped texture on the front and bumpy garter texture on the back. Most sweaters and fitted garments use stockinette because it drapes well and shows stitch definition.
Seed stitch alternates knits and purls within the same row: knit one, purl one, knit one, purl one, all the way across. The next row reverses it: purl one, knit one, purl one, knit one. This creates a dense, bumpy fabric that does not curl and lies flat, making it popular for borders and blankets.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why do my purl stitches look bigger than my knit stitches?
Purl stitches often appear looser because the yarn sits in front of the needle, which can feel less controlled than knitting. Pinch the base of each stitch more firmly with your left hand and keep steady tension on the working yarn. After a few rows, your hands adjust and the stitches even out.
Can I purl if I knit Continental style?
Yes. Continental purling uses the same hand position as Continental knitting—your left index finger controls the yarn. Instead of flicking the yarn forward (as in English purling), you move your left index finger slightly to wrap the yarn around the needle. Many Continental knitters find purling faster than knitting because the motion is smaller.
What if I accidentally purl when I meant to knit?
If you notice when ready, drop the stitch off your right needle and insert the needle again from front to back (the knit direction). If you do not notice until later, you can unravel back to the mistake, but it is faster to prevent it by checking yarn position before each row.
Do I need to tension purl stitches differently than knit stitches?
No—the tension should be the same. If your purls look loose, you are probably releasing tension on the working yarn as you pull the loop through. Keep your hand steady and maintain the same grip you use for knitting.
Is there a faster way to purl?
Continental purling is generally faster than English purling because the hand motion is smaller. If you knit English style, you can experiment with Continental purling to see if it feels more efficient. Many knitters use a hybrid: English knitting and Continental purling.