Knitting charts are grids where each square represents one stitch, and symbols inside the squares tell you which stitch to work
A knitting chart is a visual map of your pattern, drawn on graph paper. Each small square on the grid stands for one stitch. Instead of reading words like "knit" or "purl," you look at the symbol printed in each square and work that stitch. The chart shows you exactly how stitches stack up vertically and sit side by side horizontally, so you can see the finished pattern before you knit it.
Charts work the same way whether you are following a Fair Isle sweater, a cable throw, or a lace shawl. Once you learn the symbol key, you can read any chart. Most patterns include a legend that shows what each symbol means — a small square for knit, a dash for purl, a backslash for decrease, and so on. The legend is your reference; keep it close while you work.
Key Takeaways
- Each square on a knitting chart represents one stitch, and the symbol inside tells you which stitch to work.
- Charts are read from bottom to top and right to left on right-side rows, then left to right on wrong-side rows — the same direction your needles move.
- The legend printed with your pattern shows what each symbol means; different designers sometimes use different symbols for the same stitch.
- Marking your place with a row counter or sticky note prevents you from losing track of where you are in a multi-row pattern.
- Flat patterns and circular patterns use different reading directions, so check your pattern instructions before you start.
Understanding the grid and what each row represents
The horizontal lines on a chart divide it into rows. Each row on the chart matches one row of knitting you will work. If your chart is 20 rows tall, you will knit 20 rows to complete the pattern repeat. The vertical lines divide the chart into columns, and each column represents one stitch across the width of your work.
Most charts show a small section of the pattern — often called a repeat — that you work over and over until your piece is the right size. A repeat might be 8 stitches wide and 12 rows tall. If your pattern says "work the 8-stitch repeat 6 times across," you will work those 8 stitches six times in each row, then move up to the next row and repeat the whole thing again.
The numbers along the edges of the chart tell you which row you are on. Row numbers usually appear on the right side of the chart for flat knitting (knitting back and forth on straight needles). Some charts show row numbers on both sides so you can see them no matter which direction you are reading.
Reading direction: right to left, bottom to top
For flat knitting, start at the bottom right corner of the chart. Read the first row from right to left — the same direction your right needle moves when you knit a row. When you reach the end of that row (the left side of the chart), you turn your work around. The next row is read from left to right, because now your right needle is moving in that direction.
This back-and-forth reading pattern continues all the way up the chart. Odd-numbered rows (1, 3, 5) are read right to left. Even-numbered rows (2, 4, 6) are read left to right. It feels strange at first, but it matches exactly what your hands do when you knit, so the chart stays lined up with your actual stitches.
Circular knitting — working in the round on circular needles or double-pointed needles — reads differently. Every row is read from right to left, because you never turn your work around. The chart will usually say "read all rows right to left" or "work in the round" at the top. If you are unsure, check your pattern instructions before you cast on.
Learning the symbol key and common stitch abbreviations
Every knitting chart comes with a legend that shows what each symbol means. The legend might be printed right on the chart itself or on a separate page. Common symbols include a small empty square for knit, a horizontal dash for purl, a backslash or forward slash for decreases, and an open circle for yarn over. Cables, bobbles, and lace stitches have their own symbols too.
The problem is that different designers use different symbols. One pattern might show a knit stitch as a blank square, while another uses a dot. That is why you must always check the legend for the specific pattern you are working. Assume nothing — even if you have knitted ten charts before, the eleventh one might use a different symbol system.
Some charts also include stitch abbreviations next to or inside the symbols. You might see "K" for knit, "P" for purl, "K2tog" for knit two together, or "YO" for yarn over. These abbreviations are shorthand and appear in the legend so you know what to do when you see that symbol on the chart.
Tracking your place so you do not lose your row
Knitting charts can be large and confusing, especially when you are working a pattern with many rows. A row counter — a small plastic tool that clips onto your needle — lets you advance one number each time you finish a row. You glance at it to see which row you just completed, then look at the chart to find the next row number.
A sticky note or index card placed under the row you are currently working also works well. Move it up one row each time you finish. This method keeps your eyes from jumping to the wrong row and helps you see the pattern you just completed, which is useful if you need to check your work.
Some knitters print their chart and cross off each row with a pencil as they go. Others use a chart app on their phone or tablet that highlights the current row and lets you tap to advance. Pick whichever method keeps you focused and prevents mistakes.
Handling repeats and pattern multiples
A pattern repeat is the smallest section of the chart that, when worked over and over, creates the full pattern. If your chart shows an 8-stitch repeat, that means the pattern is 8 stitches wide. To fill the width of your garment, you work those 8 stitches as many times as needed.
Your pattern instructions will tell you how many stitches to cast on. This number is usually a multiple of the repeat width, plus a few extra stitches called edge stitches. For example, if the repeat is 8 stitches wide and the pattern says "cast on 41 stitches," you are working the 8-stitch repeat 5 times (40 stitches) plus 1 edge stitch on each side. The edge stitches frame the pattern and are often worked in garter stitch or stockinette.
The chart itself usually shows only one repeat, not the entire width of your piece. You read across the chart once, then start over at the right edge and read it again, repeating until you have worked all the stitches in that row. This saves space and makes the chart easier to print and follow.
Adjusting charts for your gauge and stitch count
Sometimes a chart is printed at a size that does not match your actual knitting. If your gauge is different from the pattern designer's, or if you are working a different yarn weight, the chart might need to be enlarged or reduced. Many knitters photograph the chart with their phone and zoom in or out until it looks right next to their needles.
You can also print the chart at a different size. Most pattern PDFs let you adjust the print size before you print. Experiment with 110 percent or 125 percent if the squares are too small to read comfortably, or 75 percent if the chart is too large to fit on your lap while you work.
If you are working a pattern that does not include a chart but only written instructions, you can draw your own chart on graph paper. Write the stitch abbreviation or symbol in each square as you read the instructions. This takes time but gives you a visual map to follow, which many knitters find easier than reading line after line of text.
Common mistakes and how to avoid them
The most common mistake is reading a row in the wrong direction. If you suddenly have extra stitches or your pattern looks backwards, you probably read a row left to right when it should have been right to left. Check the row number: odd rows go right to left, even rows go left to right. If you are working in the round, every row goes right to left.
Another frequent error is skipping a row or working the same row twice. This is why a row counter or marked chart is so important. Mark each row as you finish it so you always know where you are.
Misreading a symbol is also straightforward, especially if the chart is small or the print is faint. Keep the legend within arm's reach and check it every time you see a symbol you are not 100 percent sure about. A few seconds of checking now saves you from ripping back later.
Frequently Asked Questions
What does a blank square mean on a knitting chart?
A blank square almost always means knit. However, always check the legend for your specific pattern, because some designers use different symbols. The legend is the only reliable source for what each symbol means.
Do I read every row of a chart from right to left?
No. For flat knitting, odd-numbered rows go right to left and even-numbered rows go left to right. For circular knitting, every row goes right to left because you never turn your work. Your pattern instructions will tell you which method to use.
What if my chart is too small to read?
Print it at a larger size, photograph it with your phone and zoom in, or draw your own version on larger graph paper. Many knitters also use a chart app that displays the pattern on a tablet, where you can zoom and tap to advance rows.
Can I use the same chart for different yarn weights?
The stitch pattern itself stays the same, but the finished size will change. A chart worked in fingering weight will produce a smaller garment than the same chart worked in worsted weight. Check your pattern for gauge information to see what yarn weight the designer used.
What if I lose my place in the middle of a row?
Count the stitches on your needle and match that number to the stitches you have worked on the chart. Mark where you stopped, then continue from that point. If you cannot figure out where you were, it is often faster to rip back one row and start that row again than to guess and risk mistakes.