What a Knitting Chart Shows You
A knitting chart is a grid where each square represents one stitch, and the symbols or colors in those squares tell you which stitch to knit. Instead of reading written instructions like "knit 3, purl 2," you look at the chart and follow the pattern row by row. Charts let you see the whole design at once—stripes, colorwork, cables, lace—so you can understand how the pattern builds before you start knitting.
Charts are read from bottom to top, one row at a time. The bottom row is your first row of knitting. Each row on the chart corresponds to one row you knit. Within each row, you read from right to left on right-side rows (the rows you see from the front) and left to right on wrong-side rows (the rows on the back). This mirrors the way your knitting actually grows on the needles.
Key Takeaways
- Each square on a chart represents one stitch, and the symbol or color tells you what type of stitch to make.
- Read charts from bottom to top, starting with the bottom row as your first row of knitting.
- On right-side rows, read left to right across the chart; on wrong-side rows, read right to left.
- A legend or key explains what each symbol means—knit, purl, yarn over, decrease, and so on.
- Row numbers on the left edge tell you which row you are working, and stitch counts help you stay on track.
Understanding the Legend and Symbols
Every chart comes with a legend—a small box that explains what each symbol means. Common symbols include an empty square for knit stitch, a dot or horizontal line for purl, a small circle for yarn over, a slash for decrease, and an X for cable stitches. Some charts use colors instead of symbols: red squares might mean knit with red yarn, blue squares mean knit with blue yarn. Always check the legend first, because different designers sometimes use different symbols for the same stitch.
The legend also tells you the stitch abbreviation—K for knit, P for purl, YO for yarn over. If you are familiar with written patterns, these abbreviations help you understand what the symbol represents. Spend a moment matching each symbol in the legend to the stitches you will actually make. This prevents mistakes later when you are focused on counting stitches.
Following Row Numbers and Stitch Counts
Row numbers appear on the left and right edges of the chart. The left edge shows the row number for right-side rows; the right edge shows the row number for wrong-side rows. This tells you exactly which row you are working and helps you find your place if you set the knitting down. Some charts number every row; others number every fifth or tenth row to reduce clutter.
The stitch count—the number of stitches in each row—is usually written at the edge of the chart. If your chart says "24 stitches," you should have exactly 24 stitches on your needle when you start that row. If your count does not match, you have either made an extra stitch, dropped one, or misread the chart. Counting your stitches at the end of each row takes 10 seconds and catches mistakes before they compound.
Reading Direction: Right-Side and Wrong-Side Rows
This is the part that confuses most new chart readers. On right-side rows—the rows you see from the front of your finished knitting—you read the chart from right to left, the same direction your working yarn moves across your needles. On wrong-side rows—the rows on the back—you read the chart from left to right. This is because you have turned your work around.
Some charts mark right-side rows with "RS" and wrong-side rows with "WS" to make this clear. If your chart does not mark them, assume odd-numbered rows are right-side rows and even-numbered rows are wrong-side rows. This is the standard in most knitting patterns. If you read a row backward, your pattern will be reversed or upside down, so take a moment to confirm which direction you are reading before you start a new row.
Repeats and Pattern Sections
Many charts show a pattern that repeats across the row. A repeat is marked with a box or bracket, often labeled "repeat" or shown with a thicker border. If the repeat is 8 stitches wide and your pattern says "work the repeat 5 times," you knit those 8 stitches five times across the row. This saves space on the chart instead of drawing the same 8 stitches five times.
Some charts also have edge stitches—a few stitches at the beginning and end of the row that are worked only once, not repeated. These are usually shown outside the repeat box. Read the pattern instructions to confirm whether edge stitches are included in the stitch count or added on top of it. Misunderstanding repeats is a common reason a finished piece comes out the wrong width.
Tracking Your Progress with a Row Counter
A row counter is a small tool you slide onto your needle after each completed row to keep track of where you are on the chart. You can buy a physical row counter, use a pen and paper, or mark rows off on a printed copy of the chart. Some knitters take a photo of the chart and mark it digitally as they go. The method does not matter—what matters is having a way to find your place when ready if you set the knitting down.
Without a row counter, you will eventually lose count and have to count stitches backward to figure out which row you are on. This wastes time and creates stress. A row counter costs a dollar or two and prevents that frustration. If you are working a chart with many rows, marking every fifth row with a highlighter on a printed copy also helps you see progress and spot mistakes faster.
Common Mistakes and How to Avoid Them
The most common mistake is reading a row in the wrong direction. Before you start a new row, glance at the row number and confirm whether you are reading left to right or right to left. The second most common mistake is misreading a symbol. If a stitch looks different than you expected, stop and check the legend. A purl stitch that should be a yarn over will throw off your entire pattern.
A third mistake is losing track of where you are on the chart. This happens when you knit several rows without marking them off. Use a row counter, a piece of tape, or a printed chart you can mark with a pen. If you realize you made a mistake three rows back, it is faster to tink back (unknit stitch by stitch) than to rip out and reknit. Keep your chart at eye level while you knit so you can glance at it constantly without straining your neck.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do I have to print the chart or can I use it on my phone?
You can use either. A printed chart is easier to mark up and does not need a battery, but a phone or tablet lets you zoom in on small symbols. If you use a screen, increase the zoom level so symbols are clear and you do not have to squint. Some knitters print the chart and tape it to a clipboard at a comfortable reading height.
What if the chart has a symbol I do not recognize?
Check the legend again—it should be there. If the legend does not explain a symbol, look at the written pattern instructions that came with the chart. If you still cannot find it, search the designer's website or contact them directly. Do not guess; a wrong stitch will throw off the entire pattern.
Can I read a chart if I do not know how to do all the stitches shown?
Yes, but you will need to learn those stitches first. Look up a video tutorial for each stitch in the legend before you start knitting. Practicing the stitch on scrap yarn for a few minutes helps you feel confident before you work it into the actual pattern. Charts assume you know the basic stitches; they show you where to place them, not how to make them.
Why does my finished piece not match the chart?
The most likely reason is that you read a row backward or misread a symbol. Count your stitches at the end of each row to catch mistakes early. If your piece is the right width but the pattern looks wrong, you may have worked a wrong-side row as if it were a right-side row. Check your row numbers and confirm you are reading in the correct direction.
Should I use a chart or written instructions?
That is personal preference. Charts are faster to scan once you understand them, and they show the whole design at once. Written instructions are more detailed and easier to follow if you are new to knitting. Many patterns include both. Try both methods on a small project and see which one feels natural to you.