Knitting charts are a grid of symbols that show you exactly which stitch to make in each position

A knitting chart is a visual map of your finished fabric, read from bottom to top and usually from right to left. Each square represents one stitch, and the symbol inside that square tells you what stitch to knit there. Instead of following written instructions like "knit 3, purl 2, knit 1," a chart lets you see the pattern taking shape as you work—which is especially useful for colorwork, lace, and cables where the visual pattern matters.

Charts replace or accompany written row-by-row instructions. Some knitters find them easier to follow once they learn the symbols, because you can glance at the chart and see exactly where you are in the pattern, and what comes next. Others use charts alongside written instructions for confirmation. Either way, learning to read one takes about 15 minutes of practice.

Key Takeaways

  • Each square in a chart represents one stitch, and the symbol inside tells you which stitch to make.
  • Charts are read from the bottom up and from right to left on right-side rows, then left to right on wrong-side rows.
  • A legend printed with the chart explains what each symbol means—always check the legend first, because symbols vary between designers.
  • Row numbers run along the sides of the chart so you can track which row you are working and find your place if you stop mid-row.
  • Colorwork charts use different colors or shades to show which yarn color goes in each stitch, rather than symbols.

Understanding the grid and how to count rows

The chart itself is a grid, usually printed on graph paper or shown on a screen. Each small square is one stitch. The rows of squares stack vertically, with row 1 at the bottom and the highest row number at the top. This matches the way you knit: you start at the cast-on edge and work upward.

Row numbers appear along the left or right edge of the chart. Right-side rows (the rows you see from the front of the finished fabric) are usually numbered on the right side of the chart and read left to right. Wrong-side rows are numbered on the left and read right to left. Some charts number every row; others number every fifth or tenth row to save space. Count the unmarked rows by hand if you need to know exactly which row you are on.

The width of the chart tells you how many stitches are in each row. If the chart is 20 squares wide, you cast on 20 stitches (or a multiple of 20 if the pattern repeats). The height tells you how many rows to knit. A chart that is 30 squares tall means 30 rows of knitting.

Reading the legend and identifying symbols

Every chart comes with a legend—a small key that explains what each symbol means. The legend is usually printed below or beside the chart. Common symbols include a blank square (knit on right-side rows, purl on wrong-side rows), a dot (purl on right-side rows, knit on wrong-side rows), an X (knit through the back loop), and a forward slash or backslash (decreases). Symbols for cables, yarn overs, and other specialty stitches vary by designer.

Always read the legend before you start, because the same symbol can mean different things in different charts. One designer might use a dot for purl; another might use a horizontal line. The legend removes the guesswork. If a symbol appears in the chart but not in the legend, check the pattern notes or the designer's website—it is an error in the printed chart.

For lace patterns, symbols often show the direction of a decrease or the position of a yarn over. A forward slash usually means "knit 2 together" (a right-leaning decrease), and a backslash usually means "slip, knit, pass slipped stitch over" (a left-leaning decrease). A small circle or oval represents a yarn over. These symbols are fairly standard across most lace charts, but the legend will confirm.

Working a chart row by row

Start at the bottom of the chart, at row 1. If row 1 is a right-side row, read the squares from right to left. Work each stitch as the symbol tells you. When you reach the left edge, you have completed the row. Turn your work and begin row 2.

Row 2 is a wrong-side row, so read it from left to right. This feels backward at first, but it makes sense: you are reading the chart as it appears on the page, which matches the way the stitches line up on your needle. After you complete row 2, turn your work again and read row 3 from right to left.

Mark your place on the chart as you go. Use a ruler, a magnetic strip, or a piece of tape under the row you are working. This prevents you from accidentally skipping a row or reading the same row twice. Many knitters print the chart and cross off each row with a pencil as they finish it.

Repeating patterns and reading repeat markers

Many charts show a pattern that repeats across the row. Instead of printing the entire pattern 10 times, designers print it once and mark the repeat section with a box or heavy lines. The repeat box shows you which stitches to work over and over until you reach the end of the row.

For example, a chart might show a 6-stitch repeat marked with a box. If your pattern calls for 24 stitches, you work the 6-stitch repeat four times across the row. The stitches outside the repeat box (called edge stitches) are worked once at the beginning and end of the row to balance the pattern. The pattern notes will tell you how many times to repeat the marked section.

Some charts also show a repeat across multiple rows. A box drawn around a 6-stitch-by-8-row section means you work those 8 rows, then repeat the same 8 rows again. This is common in colorwork and cable patterns. The pattern instructions will specify how many times to repeat the vertical section.

Colorwork charts and reading colors instead of symbols

In colorwork charts, each square is colored or shaded to show which yarn color belongs in that stitch. There are no symbols—the color itself is the instruction. A legend shows you which color or shade corresponds to which yarn. For example, a white square means "knit with white yarn," and a gray square means "knit with gray yarn."

Colorwork charts are read the same way as symbol charts: bottom to top, right to left on right-side rows, left to right on wrong-side rows. The difference is that you are choosing yarn color instead of choosing a stitch type. Most colorwork is worked in stockinette stitch (knit on right-side rows, purl on wrong-side rows), so the chart only needs to show color.

When working colorwork, carry the yarn you are not using loosely across the back of your work (called stranding) or twist the two yarns together at the color change (called intarsia). The chart does not tell you which method to use—that information is in the pattern instructions. The chart only shows where each color goes.

Troubleshooting when you lose your place

If you stop mid-row and forget which stitch you were on, count the stitches on your needle and match that number to the chart. If you have 12 stitches on your needle and the chart is 20 stitches wide, you have completed 8 stitches and are about to work stitch 9. Look at stitch 9 on the chart and continue from there.

If you completed a row but are not sure which row you just finished, count the rows of fabric on your needle and match that count to the chart. If you have 15 rows of finished fabric, you just completed row 15 and are about to start row 16. This method works because each row of knitting creates one row of bumps on the fabric.

If you made a mistake several rows back and want to fix it, you can unravel (rip back) to the mistake and pick up the stitches again. Use the chart to see exactly what stitch should be in each position as you re-knit. This is one of the biggest advantages of charts: they show you the correct stitch for every position, making it straightforward to fix errors.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why do charts read right to left on some rows and left to right on others?

Charts are drawn to match the way fabric looks when you hold it in front of you. On right-side rows, you are looking at the front of the fabric, so you read left to right on the page just like reading words. On wrong-side rows, you are looking at the back, so the chart flips—you read right to left to match the stitch positions on your needle.

What if my chart does not have a legend?

Check the pattern notes or the designer's website—the legend may be printed separately or explained in text. If you still cannot find it, contact the designer or the publisher. Working without a legend means guessing what symbols mean, which leads to mistakes. It is worth taking a few minutes to track down the correct legend.

Can I enlarge a chart if it is too small to read?

Yes. Photocopy the chart at a larger size, or take a screenshot and zoom in on your computer or phone. Many knitters print charts at 150% or 200% of the original size. Just make sure the squares stay square (not stretched), or the proportions will look wrong and you may miscount stitches.

Do I have to memorize the symbols?

No. Keep the legend next to you while you knit and refer to it as often as you need. After working a few charts, you will recognize common symbols without looking them up, but there is no need to memorize them. Knitting is not a speed sport—accuracy matters more than memory.

What if the chart shows more rows than my pattern says to knit?

The chart may show the full repeat of a stitch pattern, but your pattern may only call for part of it. For example, a cable chart might show 12 rows, but your sweater pattern might say "work rows 1–8 of the chart." Work only the rows your pattern specifies. The extra rows on the chart are there for reference or for other projects that use the same stitch pattern.