Knitting instructions use a shorthand system of abbreviations, symbols, and formatting that tells you which stitch to make, how many times to repeat it, and when to change techniques

A knitting pattern is a set of written directions that replaces showing you each stitch by hand. Instead of "knit one stitch, then purl one stitch, then knit one stitch," the pattern says "K1, P1, K1." Once you learn what the abbreviations mean and how the pattern is organized on the page, you can follow any pattern—whether it's for a straightforward dishcloth or a complex sweater.

The pattern assumes you already know how to cast on, knit, purl, and bind off. If you don't, learn those four skills first. After that, reading a pattern is mostly about recognizing abbreviations and understanding how brackets and asterisks tell you to repeat sections.

Key Takeaways

  • Every pattern begins with a key that defines its abbreviations—K means knit, P means purl, YO means yarn over—and you should check this key before you start because different designers sometimes use different symbols.
  • Brackets and asterisks show you which stitches to repeat: *K2, P1* means knit two, purl one, then do that whole sequence again as many times as the pattern tells you.
  • Row numbers and stitch counts help you track where you are; if your stitch count doesn't match the pattern after a row, you made an error and should find it before moving on.
  • Gauge—the number of stitches and rows per inch—determines the finished size of your project, and checking your gauge before you start saves you from making something too big or too small.
  • Parentheses usually mean "do this for different sizes," so a sweater pattern might say (K2, P1) for size small, (K3, P1) for size medium, and you follow only the instructions in your size's parentheses.

Understanding the Abbreviations at the Start of Every Pattern

Every pattern includes a legend—usually called "Abbreviations" or "Key"—that lists what each short code means. The most common ones are K (knit), P (purl), YO (yarn over), K2tog (knit two together), and SSK (slip, slip, knit). But designers sometimes create their own abbreviations or use symbols instead of letters, so you must check the key before you start.

Write down the abbreviations on a sticky note or keep the pattern open to the key while you work. The first time you see an unfamiliar abbreviation, stop and find it in the key. This takes ten seconds and prevents you from guessing and making mistakes.

Some patterns use both abbreviations and symbols—a small circle might mean yarn over, or a diagonal line might mean slip one stitch. If the pattern includes a symbol chart (a grid where each square represents a stitch), the key will show you what each symbol means.

How Brackets and Asterisks Tell You to Repeat Stitches

Brackets [ ] and asterisks * * show you which stitches to repeat. When you see *K2, P1* repeat 6 times, you knit two stitches, purl one stitch, then do that exact sequence five more times (six times total). The asterisks mark the beginning and end of the section you repeat.

Brackets work the same way. [K1, P1] 4 times means knit one, purl one, then repeat that pair four times. Some patterns use both—the brackets might mark one repeat, and the asterisks might mark a larger section that contains multiple bracketed repeats.

If a pattern says K5, *P2, K3* repeat to last 5 stitches, K5, you knit five stitches, then do the P2, K3 sequence over and over until you have five stitches left, then knit those five. This type of instruction helps the pattern fit different stitch counts.

Reading Rows and Tracking Your Progress

Patterns number their rows so you know where you are. Row 1 is usually the first row you knit after casting on. Some patterns number every row; others number only the right-side rows (the rows you see from the front). Check the pattern to see which system it uses.

At the end of each row, count your stitches and compare the number to what the pattern says you should have. If you cast on 24 stitches and the pattern says "Row 1: K24" (knit all 24), you should still have 24 stitches after that row. If you have 23 or 25, you dropped a stitch or accidentally created one, and you should find the mistake before moving to the next row. Finding an error early is much easier than ripping back five rows later.

Many patterns include stitch counts in brackets at the end of each row: "Row 3: K2, P1, K2, P1 [6 sts]" tells you that you should have six stitches after that row. Use these as checkpoints.

What Gauge Means and Why It Matters

Gauge is the number of stitches and rows you knit per inch. A pattern might say "Gauge: 20 stitches and 28 rows = 4 inches on US 6 needles." This means that if you knit a four-inch square using the yarn and needle size the pattern specifies, you will have 20 stitches across and 28 rows up.

Before you start a sweater, hat, or anything where size matters, knit a small square (usually four inches by four inches) using the yarn and needles the pattern calls for. Measure it. If your gauge matches the pattern's gauge, your finished project will be the right size. If your gauge is off—if you have 18 stitches per four inches instead of 20—your project will be too big.

Gauge matters less for dishcloths, scarves, and blankets where size is flexible. But for fitted items, checking gauge takes 20 minutes and prevents you from spending hours knitting something that doesn't fit.

Parentheses for Different Sizes

Patterns that come in multiple sizes use parentheses to show which instructions explore to which size. A sweater pattern might say "Cast on (60, 70, 80) stitches for sizes Small, Medium, Large." You pick your size and follow only the numbers in your size's position.

Highlight or circle your size's numbers before you start. Some knitters rewrite the entire pattern for their size, replacing all the parentheses with just their numbers. This takes an extra 15 minutes but prevents mistakes when you're tired or distracted.

If the pattern uses letters instead of numbers—(S, M, L)—the key at the top tells you what each letter means. Always check this before you start.

Common Pattern Structures and What They Mean

Most patterns follow the same basic structure: cast on a number of stitches, work rows or rounds following the instructions, then bind off. But some patterns ask you to increase or decrease stitches (make the fabric wider or narrower), change colors, or switch between different stitch types.

When a pattern says "increase 1 stitch each end of next row," it means add one stitch at the beginning and one at the end, making your total two stitches wider. The pattern will tell you which increase method to use (yarn over, knit front and back, or another technique). When it says "decrease 1 stitch each end," remove one stitch from each end using the method the pattern specifies.

If a pattern includes a chart—a grid where each square represents one stitch and each row of squares represents one row of knitting—read it the same way you read the written instructions. Each square's symbol tells you which stitch to make. Charts are read from bottom to top, and right-side rows go left to right while wrong-side rows go right to left (unless the pattern says otherwise).

What to Do When You Get Stuck

If you don't understand an abbreviation, check the pattern's key. If the key doesn't explain it, search online for "[abbreviation] knitting" and you will find the definition. Ravelry.com, a database of knitting patterns, also has a glossary of abbreviations.

If your stitch count doesn't match the pattern after a row, stop and look for the mistake. Use a lifeline—a piece of yarn threaded through a row of stitches—so you can rip back to that row without losing stitches if you need to. This is especially useful when you're learning.

If you're unsure whether you're reading a section correctly, knit a few stitches and see if the result looks right. If it doesn't, you probably misread the instruction. Rip back and try again. Knitting is forgiving—you can always undo stitches and start over.

Frequently Asked Questions

What does "work even" mean?

It means continue knitting in the same stitch pattern without increasing or decreasing until the pattern tells you to do something different. If you've been increasing stitches every other row and the pattern says "work even for 10 rows," you knit 10 rows without any increases or decreases.

Why do some patterns say "RS" and "WS"?

RS means right side (the front of your finished project) and WS means wrong side (the back). Some stitches look different on each side, so the pattern tells you which side you're working on so you make the right stitches. If the pattern says "RS row: K all," you knit every stitch on the row facing you.

What if the pattern uses a symbol I don't recognize?

Check the pattern's key or legend—it should be on the first page or in a sidebar. If it's not there, search the pattern's name plus "key" or "abbreviations" online, or ask on a knitting forum like Ravelry. Someone will know what it means.

Can I change the yarn or needle size the pattern calls for?

You can, but it will change your gauge and the finished size. If you use thicker yarn or larger needles, your project will be bigger. If you use thinner yarn or smaller needles, it will be smaller. Check your gauge with your yarn and needles before you start so you know what size you'll end up with.

What does "slip one stitch" mean?

It means move one stitch from your left needle to your right needle without knitting or purling it. This is written as "sl 1." You usually slip stitches knitwise (as if to knit) or purlwise (as if to purl)—the pattern will tell you which. Slipping is used to create edges, decrease stitches, or move stitches around.