What the symbols and abbreviations mean

A knitting pattern is a set of written instructions that tells you which stitches to make, in which order, and how many times to repeat them. The pattern uses abbreviations and symbols to save space—instead of writing "knit stitch," it writes "K." Instead of spelling out "purl stitch," it writes "P." Learning these shortcuts is the first step to understanding any pattern.

The most common abbreviations you will see are K (knit), P (purl), YO (yarn over), K2tog (knit two stitches together), and SSK (slip, slip, knit). A pattern might also use RS (right side) and WS (wrong side) to tell you which direction you are facing. Some patterns use symbols instead of letters—a small square means knit, a dot means purl, and a circle means yarn over. The pattern will include a key that explains what each symbol means, so you do not have to memorize them.

Numbers in parentheses or brackets usually tell you how many stitches you will have after completing that row or round. For example, "K2tog across (12 sts)" means you knit two stitches together repeatedly until you reach the end, and you should have 12 stitches left. This is a way to check your work as you go.

Key Takeaways

  • Abbreviations like K, P, YO, and K2tog are shortcuts for stitch names, and every pattern includes a key explaining what each one means.
  • Numbers in parentheses tell you how many stitches you should have after completing a row, so you can catch mistakes early.
  • Asterisks and brackets show you which stitches to repeat, and the pattern will tell you how many times to repeat them.
  • Row numbers run from the bottom of the piece to the top, and you read flat patterns left to right on odd rows and right to left on even rows.
  • The schematic diagram shows the finished measurements, so you can check whether the garment will fit before you start knitting.

Understanding repeat sections and brackets

Patterns use asterisks, brackets, and parentheses to show you which stitches to repeat. An asterisk at the start and end of a group of stitches means "repeat everything between these marks." For example, "*K2, P2*" means knit two, purl two, then knit two again, then purl two again—you repeat that sequence across the entire row.

The pattern will tell you exactly how many times to repeat the section. It might say "*K2, P2* repeat 6 times" or "*K2, P2* repeat to last 2 sts." The second version means you repeat until you have only 2 stitches left on your needle, then knit those 2 stitches as written. This prevents you from accidentally adding or dropping stitches.

Parentheses inside a repeat section usually give you options for different sizes. For example, "*K2, P(3, 4, 5)*" might mean size small knits 2 and purls 3, size medium knits 2 and purls 4, and size large knits 2 and purls 5. The pattern will tell you which number to use based on the size you are making. Always circle or highlight your size before you start, so you do not accidentally switch sizes halfway through.

Reading rows and rounds correctly

Patterns written for flat knitting (on straight needles or circular needles worked back and forth) are read from bottom to top. Row 1 is at the bottom, and the highest row number is at the top. When you knit a flat piece, you work odd-numbered rows (1, 3, 5) from left to right, and even-numbered rows (2, 4, 6) from right to left. This is because you turn your work around after each row.

Patterns written for circular knitting (in the round) are also read from bottom to top, but you always work from right to left, because you never turn your work. The pattern will say "Round 1," "Round 2," and so on instead of "Row 1," "Row 2." Some circular patterns use symbols arranged in a circle or spiral to show you the order of stitches, while others use written abbreviations just like flat patterns do.

If a pattern says "work even" or "work in pattern as established," it means continue making the same stitches in the same order without increasing or decreasing. This phrase appears when you have already set up a stitch pattern and now you just repeat it for several rows without changing anything.

Checking the schematic and finished measurements

Before you cast on a single stitch, look at the schematic diagram. This is a straightforward drawing of the finished garment with measurements written on it. The schematic shows the width across the chest, the length from shoulder to hem, the sleeve length, and the armhole depth. These numbers tell you whether the garment will fit your body.

Compare the schematic measurements to a sweater or shirt you already own and like the fit of. If the pattern says the finished chest width is 40 inches and your favorite sweater is 38 inches across, the pattern piece will be 2 inches larger. Some people prefer a snug fit and others prefer loose, so there is no single right answer—but you need to know what you are making before you start.

The schematic also shows you which size to choose. Patterns usually come in multiple sizes: small, medium, large, and sometimes extra-large. Each size has its own finished measurements. If you are between sizes, most knitters choose the larger size, because you can always wear a sweater with a little extra room, but you cannot make it bigger once it is finished.

Finding the cast-on number and gauge

The cast-on number is how many stitches you need to put on your needle before you start knitting. It appears near the top of the pattern, usually in a line that says "Cast on [number] stitches." This number is different for each size. If you are making a medium, find the medium cast-on number and use that one. If you use the wrong cast-on number, your finished piece will be the wrong width.

Gauge is how many stitches and rows fit in one inch of knitted fabric. The pattern will say something like "18 stitches and 24 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch on size 6 needles." This means if you knit a 4-inch square using size 6 needles and stockinette stitch, you should have exactly 18 stitches across and 24 rows tall. If your gauge is off, your finished garment will be the wrong size.

Before you start a garment, knit a small swatch (a practice square) using the yarn and needles the pattern calls for. Measure your swatch and count your stitches and rows. If your gauge does not match the pattern, go up or down a needle size until it does. This step takes an extra 30 minutes but saves you from spending weeks knitting a sweater that does not fit.

Decoding increases, decreases, and shaping instructions

Patterns use abbreviations to tell you when to increase or decrease stitches. Inc or M1 (make one) means add a stitch. Dec, K2tog, or SSK means remove a stitch by knitting two together or slipping and knitting. These instructions appear when the pattern is shaping a sleeve, neckline, or waistline.

Shaping instructions often appear in a format like "Inc 1 stitch each side every 4 rows 8 times." This means you add one stitch at the beginning and end of a row, then skip 3 rows, then add stitches again, and you repeat this 8 times total. The pattern is telling you exactly when and where to increase so the piece grows at the right rate.

Some patterns use a stitch diagram instead of written instructions for shaping. The diagram shows each stitch as a small symbol, and you can see the shape of the piece as it grows wider or narrower. If you find written instructions confusing, look for the diagram—many knitters find it easier to follow a picture than abbreviations.

Working with stitch patterns and color changes

If a pattern includes a stitch pattern like ribbing, garter stitch, or cables, the pattern will explain it once and then tell you to "work in pattern" or "continue in pattern as established." This means keep making the same stitches in the same order. For example, if you start with "K2, P2" ribbing, you continue knitting 2 and purling 2 for every row until the pattern tells you to stop or change.

Color changes appear in patterns for Fair Isle, stripes, or intarsia work. The pattern will either show you a color chart (a grid where each square is a different color) or give you written instructions like "K5 in color A, K3 in color B." If you are using a chart, each row of the chart matches one row of knitting, and you read it the same way you read the written pattern—left to right on odd rows, right to left on even rows.

When you switch colors, the pattern will tell you whether to carry the unused color along the edge (called stranding) or cut it and rejoin it later (called cutting). Stranding is faster but works best for small color changes. Cutting is slower but gives you cleaner edges and works better for large blocks of color.

Common mistakes and how to avoid them

The most common mistake is using the wrong cast-on number or the wrong size. Before you cast on, write down the cast-on number for your size and double-check it against the pattern. If you are making a medium, highlight every number that applies to medium and cross out the others. This takes 30 seconds and prevents you from knitting the wrong size.

Another frequent error is skipping the gauge swatch. Knitters often think they can skip this step to save time, but if your gauge is off by even half a stitch per inch, a sweater can end up 2 to 3 inches too big or too small. A 30-minute swatch is much faster than unraveling a sweater you spent 20 hours on.

Misreading row numbers is also common. Always check whether you are on an odd or even row before you start, because the pattern reads differently depending on which direction you are facing. If you lose track, count the rows you have completed and check the pattern to see which row number you should be on next.

Frequently Asked Questions

What does "work even" mean?

"Work even" means continue knitting the same stitches in the same pattern without increasing or decreasing. You are not changing the stitch count or the stitch pattern—just repeating what you have already been doing. This phrase appears when you have finished shaping one section and now need to knit several rows at the same width before shaping begins again.

How do I know which size to make?

Look at the schematic diagram and compare the finished measurements to a garment you already own and like. If the pattern says the finished chest is 40 inches and your favorite sweater is 38 inches, the pattern will be 2 inches larger. Choose the size whose finished measurements match what you want, not the size that matches your body measurements.

What if my gauge does not match the pattern?

Change your needle size. If your gauge is too loose (fewer stitches per inch than the pattern calls for), go down a needle size. If your gauge is too tight (more stitches per inch), go up a needle size. Knit another swatch with the new needle size and measure again. Repeat until your gauge matches.

Can I skip the schematic and just start knitting?

You can, but you risk making a garment that does not fit. The schematic takes 30 seconds to read and tells you the finished width, length, and sleeve length. Spending 30 seconds now prevents you from spending 20 hours knitting something that is too big or too small.

What does the asterisk mean in a pattern?

An asterisk marks the beginning and end of a stitch sequence you repeat. For example, "*K2, P2*" means knit 2 and purl 2, then repeat that sequence again. The pattern will tell you how many times to repeat it, or it will say "repeat to end" if you repeat until you run out of stitches.