Knitting patterns use abbreviations, symbols, and charts to tell you what to do with your needles and yarn

A knitting pattern is a set of written instructions that tells you how to construct a garment or object row by row. Instead of spelling out "knit one stitch, purl one stitch" for every single row, patterns use shorthand: K1, P1. The abbreviations stay the same across most patterns, so once you learn them, you can read almost any pattern you find. The hardest part is not the abbreviations themselves — it is understanding how patterns layer instructions on top of each other and how to track where you are.

Most patterns come in one of two formats: written instructions (rows of abbreviations) or charts (grids of symbols). Many patterns use both. A written pattern reads left to right on right-side rows and right to left on wrong-side rows, which mirrors how your hands actually move. A chart reads the same way but shows you a picture of what the finished fabric should look like, which helps you spot mistakes before they become big problems.

Key Takeaways

  • The most common abbreviations are K (knit), P (purl), YO (yarn over), K2tog (knit two together), and SSK (slip, slip, knit), and these appear in nearly every pattern you will encounter.
  • Written patterns read left to right on right-side rows and right to left on wrong-side rows, matching the direction your hands move as you knit.
  • Charts use symbols instead of letters and show you a visual picture of the finished fabric, making it easier to spot mistakes.
  • Repeat sections marked with asterisks or brackets tell you to work the same sequence multiple times across a row, and the number in parentheses tells you how many stitches that section uses.
  • Keeping a row counter or marking your place with a sticky note prevents you from losing track of where you are in a long pattern.

The most common abbreviations and what they mean

Every pattern starts with a key that lists what each abbreviation stands for. The ones you will see most often are: K (knit), P (purl), YO (yarn over — a deliberate hole used for lace), K2tog (knit two stitches together to decrease), SSK (slip, slip, knit — another decrease), P2tog (purl two together), inc (increase by knitting into the front and back of one stitch), and sl (slip a stitch from one needle to the other without working it).

Less common but still standard abbreviations include tog (together), st or sts (stitch or stitches), rnd (round, used in circular knitting), RS (right side — the front of the finished piece), WS (wrong side — the back), and rep (repeat). Some patterns add their own abbreviations for specialty stitches. The pattern will always define these in a key at the top or bottom of the page.

Numbers next to abbreviations tell you how many times to do that stitch. K3 means knit three stitches in a row. P2tog means purl two stitches together as one decrease. If you see K2tog 3 times, you work that decrease three separate times across the row, not three times in one stitch.

How to read written row-by-row instructions

A written pattern gives you instructions for each row. The first row listed is usually the right side (the front of your finished piece). Right-side rows read left to right, the same direction you naturally knit. Wrong-side rows read right to left, which feels backward but matches how your hands actually move when you flip the work around.

Here is what a straightforward pattern row looks like: Row 1 (RS): K1, P1, K2, P3, K1, P1. This tells you: knit one stitch, purl one, knit two, purl three, knit one, purl one. When you reach the end of the row, you have completed Row 1. The next row is Row 2, and if it is a wrong-side row, you read it backward.

Patterns often use parentheses to group instructions. (K1, P1) 4 times means work the sequence K1, P1 a total of four times in a row. This saves space instead of writing K1, P1, K1, P1, K1, P1, K1, P1. Asterisks work the same way: *K2, P2; repeat from * to end means keep working K2, P2 over and over until you reach the end of the row.

Reading charts and symbol systems

A knitting chart is a grid where each square represents one stitch and each row of squares represents one row of knitting. The chart shows you what the finished fabric looks like from the front. A blank or white square usually means knit on the right side (or purl on the wrong side). A dot or filled square usually means purl on the right side (or knit on the wrong side). Other symbols represent yarn overs, decreases, and specialty stitches.

Every chart comes with a legend that shows what each symbol means. The legend is essential — different designers sometimes use different symbols for the same stitch, so you cannot assume a dot means the same thing in every pattern you see. Read the legend first, before you start knitting.

Charts read from bottom to top, because you knit from the bottom of a garment upward. The bottom row of the chart is Row 1. Right-side rows read left to right. Wrong-side rows read right to left. If the chart is for circular knitting (knitting in the round), all rows read left to right because you never flip the work around.

Charts are especially useful for catching mistakes early. If you are working a colorwork pattern or a lace pattern, you can look at your actual knitting and compare it to the chart. If a stitch does not match the symbol, you know something went wrong in that row.

Understanding repeats and how to count stitches

Most patterns include a repeat — a section of stitches that you work multiple times across a row. The repeat is usually marked with asterisks or a box on a chart. *K2, P2; repeat from * to end means you work K2, P2 over and over until you have no stitches left. The number in parentheses after the repeat tells you how many stitches that sequence uses. (K2, P2) uses 4 stitches.

To figure out how many times you will work a repeat, divide your total stitch count by the number of stitches in the repeat. If you have 32 stitches and the repeat uses 4 stitches, you work the repeat 8 times. If your stitch count does not divide evenly, the pattern will tell you what to do with the leftover stitches. Repeat from * to last 2 stitches, K2 means work the repeat as many times as it fits, then knit the last 2 stitches separately.

Keeping track of repeats is easier if you use a row counter or mark your place with a sticky note. Some knitters use a piece of yarn threaded through the stitches to mark the beginning of a repeat. This prevents you from accidentally working the repeat one extra time or one too few.

Decoding increases, decreases, and specialty stitches

Increases and decreases change the number of stitches on your needle, which is how patterns create shaping. Inc means increase — usually by knitting into the front and back of the same stitch, which adds one stitch. K2tog and SSK both decrease by one stitch, but they slant in opposite directions. K2tog slants right, and SSK slants left. Patterns use both to create balanced shaping on either side of a neckline or armhole.

YO (yarn over) creates a deliberate hole in the fabric and also increases by one stitch. It is used in lace patterns and eyelet details. A yarn over is just moving your yarn to the front of your work before you knit the next stitch, which leaves a loop behind.

Specialty stitches like cables, bobbles, or twisted stitches will have their own abbreviations defined in the pattern key. Do not assume you know what they mean — always check the key. Some patterns include a separate instruction section that explains how to work a cable or bobble before the main pattern begins.

How to track your progress and avoid mistakes

The easiest way to stay on track is to use a row counter — a small tool that slides onto your needle and lets you click off each completed row. You can also use a piece of paper with tick marks, a notebook, or a knitting app that tracks rows for you. Without some kind of counter, it is straightforward to lose track after 20 or 30 rows, especially if you have to put your knitting down and come back to it later.

Marking your place with a sticky note or a piece of yarn helps you follow the right row on a chart or written pattern. Move the marker down as you complete each row. This prevents you from accidentally repeating a row or skipping one.

If you make a mistake, compare your actual knitting to the pattern or chart. If a stitch does not match, you caught the error in the same row or the row above. The sooner you find a mistake, the easier it is to fix. If you have to rip back several rows, you will be glad you caught it early.

Frequently Asked Questions

What does it mean when a pattern says "work even"?

Work even means continue knitting in the same stitch pattern without increasing or decreasing until the piece reaches a specific length or row count. For example, "work even for 3 inches" means keep doing what you have been doing without shaping for the next 3 inches of fabric.

Why do some patterns read right to left on wrong-side rows?

Because you physically turn your work around when you flip from the right side to the wrong side. Your hands move in the opposite direction, so the pattern reads backward to match how you actually knit. If you are knitting in the round, all rows read left to right because you never flip the work.

How do I know if I am reading a chart correctly?

Check the row numbers on the side of the chart. They should start at 1 at the bottom and go up. Right-side rows are usually numbered on the right edge, and wrong-side rows on the left. If your finished knitting does not match the chart picture, you may be reading it upside down or backward.

What if my pattern uses abbreviations I have never seen before?

Check the pattern key at the beginning or end of the pattern. Every abbreviation should be defined there. If it is not, search the pattern name plus the abbreviation online — knitting communities like Ravelry have forums where you can ask other knitters what an unfamiliar abbreviation means.

Can I use the same abbreviations in every pattern I find?

Most abbreviations are standard across patterns, but some designers create their own for specialty stitches. Always read the key for each new pattern instead of assuming an abbreviation means the same thing everywhere. A few minutes reading the key at the start saves you from frogging (ripping out) rows later.