The two ways to reduce stitches: decreasing and binding off

Reducing stitches means removing loops from your needle so you have fewer stitches to work with on the next row. You do this in two situations: when your pattern calls for a decrease (which happens mid-project to shape sleeves, necklines, or crown decreases on hats), and when you bind off (which closes the final row and secures all stitches so they don't unravel).

A decrease removes one or more stitches while you keep working. Binding off removes all remaining stitches at the very end. They use different techniques because they serve different purposes—a decrease needs to look neat and blend with the surrounding fabric, while binding off just needs to be find.

Most patterns tell you exactly which decrease to use and where. If yours doesn't, a basic knit two together (K2tog) works for most situations. The key is doing it consistently so your shaping looks even on both sides of the garment.

Key Takeaways

  • A decrease removes one or more stitches mid-row to shape your project; binding off removes all stitches at the end to finish the edge.
  • Knit two together (K2tog) is the most common decrease and works for most patterns unless the pattern specifies a different one.
  • Left-leaning decreases (SSK or slip-slip-knit) and right-leaning decreases (K2tog) should be paired on opposite sides of a garment so shaping looks balanced.
  • Binding off is done on the final row and uses a straightforward over-and-under motion to lock each stitch before removing it from the needle.
  • Counting your stitches after each decrease row helps catch mistakes early before they affect the rest of your project.

The most common decreases: K2tog and SSK

Knit two together (K2tog) is the simplest decrease. Insert your right needle through two stitches on the left needle from left to right (as if you were knitting normally), then knit them as one stitch. This removes one stitch and creates a right-leaning decrease—the stitch leans toward the right side of your work.

Slip, slip, knit (SSK) creates a left-leaning decrease. Slip one stitch knitwise, slip another stitch knitwise, then insert your left needle through both slipped stitches from left to right and knit them together. This decrease leans the opposite direction from K2tog.

Use K2tog on the right side of shaping (like the right edge of a sleeve) and SSK on the left side. This makes your decreases mirror each other and look intentional rather than lopsided. If your pattern doesn't specify which to use, this pairing is the standard choice.

Other decreases for specific looks

Purl two together (P2tog) works the same way as K2tog but on purl rows. Insert your needle through two stitches and purl them as one. This is a right-leaning decrease on the purl side.

Slip, slip, purl (SSP) is the purl-side version of SSK. Slip two stitches knitwise one at a time, then purl them together through the back loop. This creates a left-leaning decrease on the purl side.

Double decreases remove two stitches at once. The most common is slip one stitch, knit two together, then pass the slipped stitch over the result. This is written as S1, K2tog, PSSO or sometimes just SK2P. Double decreases are used for crown shaping on hats or when a pattern needs to reduce stitches quickly.

Your pattern will tell you which decrease to use and where. If it doesn't, K2tog and SSK are safe choices for almost any project.

Binding off: securing your final row

Binding off happens on your last row and locks all stitches so they can't unravel when you remove the needles. The standard method is called the chain bind-off or basic bind-off.

Knit two stitches normally. Using your left needle, lift the first stitch (the one on the left) over the second stitch and off the needle. You now have one stitch on your right needle. Knit one more stitch, then lift the previous stitch over this new one. Repeat until one stitch remains, then cut your yarn and pull the tail through the final loop.

Bind off loosely—if you pull too tight, the edge will pucker and won't stretch with the rest of the fabric. A common mistake is binding off too firmly on the last row of a sleeve or neckline, which makes it uncomfortable to wear. If your bind-off edge looks tight, you may be pulling the yarn too hard as you work.

Counting stitches to catch mistakes early

After each decrease row, count your stitches to make sure you have the right number. If your pattern says you should have 48 stitches after a decrease row and you have 50, you missed a decrease somewhere. Catching this now is much easier than ripping back several rows later.

Count on a flat surface or use stitch markers to divide your stitches into groups of 10. This makes counting faster and less error-prone than counting one by one on the needle. Mark your count in a notebook or on your pattern so you have a record of where you are in the project.

If you find a mistake, you have two choices: drop back a few rows and fix it, or keep going if the error is small enough that it won't affect the fit. Most small mistakes disappear in the finished garment, but shaping mistakes (especially on sleeves or necklines) are worth fixing because they change how the piece fits.

Shaping both sides evenly

When you're decreasing on both sides of a garment (like a V-neck or tapered sleeve), work your decreases the same number of rows from the edge on both sides. If you decrease on row 5 on the right side, decrease on row 5 on the left side too. This keeps your shaping symmetrical.

Use opposite decreases on opposite sides: K2tog on the right and SSK on the left. This makes the decreases lean toward the center of the garment, which looks intentional and professional. If you use the same decrease on both sides, one side will look like it's leaning away from the center, which looks unbalanced.

Mark your decrease rows on your pattern or in a notebook so you don't lose track. Some knitters use stitch markers to mark the stitch before and after each decrease, which makes it easier to spot if you've missed one.

Frequently Asked Questions

What's the difference between a decrease and binding off?

A decrease removes one or more stitches while you keep knitting—it happens in the middle of your project to shape it. Binding off removes all your remaining stitches at the very end to finish the edge and prevent unraveling. You use decreases many times throughout a project; you bind off only once, on the final row.

Can I use K2tog on both sides of a sleeve instead of pairing it with SSK?

Technically yes, but it will look unbalanced. K2tog leans right, so using it on both sides makes one side look like it's leaning away from the center. SSK leans left, so pairing them makes both sides lean toward the center and look intentional. Most patterns specify which to use for this reason.

What if my bind-off edge is too tight?

You're likely pulling the yarn too firmly as you work. Try binding off with a needle one or two sizes larger than your working needles, or loosen your tension as you lift stitches over. A loose bind-off edge will stretch with the rest of the fabric; a tight one will pucker and feel uncomfortable.

How do I know if I've made a mistake in my decreases?

Count your stitches after each decrease row and compare to what your pattern says you should have. If the numbers don't match, you either missed a decrease or did an extra one. Catching this right away is much easier than ripping back several rows later.

Do I have to use the decreases my pattern specifies?

Most patterns specify a decrease for a reason—it affects how the shaping looks. That said, K2tog and SSK work for almost any situation if your pattern doesn't specify. The most important thing is being consistent: use the same decrease in the same place on every decrease row so your shaping looks even.