What skipping a stitch means and when you need it

Skipping a stitch in knitting means passing over one or more stitches on your needle without working into them. The stitch stays on the needle and moves to the next row or round. You skip stitches to create deliberate gaps, shaping, or texture — not because you made a mistake, but because the pattern calls for it.

Skipping appears in lace patterns, eyelet designs, and shaping instructions like "knit 2, skip 1, knit 2" across a row. It is different from dropping a stitch by accident: you control exactly which stitch is skipped and what happens next. Most patterns pair a skip with a decrease or yarn over to keep your stitch count stable.

The challenge is keeping tension even when you skip. A skipped stitch can pull tight or create a loose loop if you do not manage the yarn correctly on the next stitch.

Key Takeaways

  • Skipping a stitch means passing over it without working into it; the stitch stays on your needle and moves forward.
  • Most patterns pair a skip with a decrease or yarn over so your total stitch count does not change.
  • Tension matters: the stitch after a skip can pull tight or sag if you do not control the yarn evenly.
  • The most common skip is "slip, knit, pass slipped stitch over" (SKP), which decreases one stitch while creating a left-leaning line.

The slip-knit-pass-over method (SKP)

SKP is the most common way to skip a stitch. It combines a slip, a knit, and a pass-over in one motion, and it decreases your stitch count by one. Here is the exact order: slip one stitch knitwise to your right needle without working it, knit the next stitch normally, then use your left needle to lift the slipped stitch over the knit stitch and off the needle.

The result is a left-leaning decrease. The slipped stitch sits on top and leans toward the left side of your work. This is useful in shaping because it mirrors a right-leaning decrease (knit two together, or K2tog) — you can use SKP on the left edge and K2tog on the right edge of a neckline or armhole to make the shaping symmetrical.

To keep tension even, do not pull the yarn tight after you slip. Let the slipped stitch sit loose on your right needle, knit the next stitch at your normal tension, then pass over smoothly. If you yank the yarn after the slip, the knit stitch will be too tight and the decrease will look bunched.

Slipping a stitch without working it

Before you can skip, you need to know how to slip a stitch cleanly. Slipping means moving a stitch from your left needle to your right needle without inserting your needle through it or working it. There are two ways to slip, and the pattern will tell you which one to use.

Slip knitwise: Insert your right needle through the stitch from left to right, as if you were going to knit it, then slide the stitch off your left needle onto your right needle. This is the most common slip and the one used in SKP. It twists the stitch slightly, which is why it works well in decreases.

Slip purlwise: Insert your right needle through the stitch from right to left, as if you were going to purl it, then slide it off. This keeps the stitch in its original orientation and is used in lace patterns and when you want the stitch to sit flat on the next row. If a pattern just says "slip" with no direction, slip purlwise.

The difference matters because a twisted stitch looks different on the finished fabric. In lace, you usually slip purlwise to keep the stitch aligned. In decreases, you slip knitwise to create the lean you want.

Skipping in lace and eyelet patterns

Lace patterns skip stitches to create holes. A typical lace sequence is "yarn over, skip 1" or "yarn over, knit 2 together" — the yarn over adds a new loop, and the skip or decrease removes one stitch, so your stitch count stays the same and a hole forms.

In lace, you usually slip the stitch to skip purlwise, not knitwise. This keeps the stitch flat and aligned with the yarn over. The pattern will say something like "yarn over, slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over" (PSSO). This is almost the same as SKP, but the slip is purlwise instead of knitwise, which gives a different look — the hole is more open and the stitch sits straighter.

When you work lace, pay attention to where the yarn is before you slip. If you just finished a knit stitch, the yarn is in the back. If you are about to slip, bring the yarn to the front first (unless the pattern says otherwise). This prevents accidental yarn overs and keeps your stitch count correct. After you slip and pass over, the yarn should be in the position the next stitch needs.

Keeping tension even when you skip

The most common problem with skipping is uneven tension. The stitch right after a skip can look too tight or too loose because the yarn has to travel a different distance than it does in a normal stitch.

To fix this, do not pull the yarn tight when ready after a skip. Let the slipped stitch sit loose on your right needle. When you work the next stitch, use the same tension you use for every other stitch — not tighter, not looser. The yarn will settle into place on the next row, and the tension will look even.

If you are working lace and the holes look uneven, the problem is usually tension on the stitch after the yarn over and skip. Work that stitch at normal tension, not tight. It may feel loose on the needle, but it will look right when you bind off or block the piece.

Another trick: if you are skipping multiple stitches in a row (rare, but it happens in some patterns), work the stitch after the skip a tiny bit tighter than normal — not much, just enough to anchor the skipped stitches. This prevents a loose column of stitches.

Skipping in decreases and shaping

Shaping instructions often use skip language. "Knit 2, skip 1, knit 2" means knit two stitches, then use SKP or another decrease to remove one stitch, then knit two more. The skip is the decrease. Some patterns say "skip 1" when they mean "decrease 1" — they are the same thing in this context.

Other patterns use "skip" to mean "slip and hold." For example, "skip 2 stitches to a cable needle and hold in back" means slip two stitches to a cable needle without working them, hold that needle behind your work, then work the next few stitches. This is not a permanent skip — you will work those held stitches later. This is cable technique, not a skip in the sense of this article.

Always read the full instruction. If it says "skip and hold," you will work those stitches later. If it says "skip 1, knit 1, pass over," you are decreasing and those stitches are gone.

Common mistakes and how to avoid them

The most common mistake is slipping in the wrong direction. If a pattern says "slip 1 knitwise" and you slip purlwise, the stitch will twist the wrong way and the decrease will lean the opposite direction. Check the pattern before you slip, and if you are not sure, slip knitwise — it is the default in most decreases.

Another mistake is pulling the yarn too tight after a slip. This makes the next stitch bunched and the overall fabric uneven. Slip loosely, work the next stitch at normal tension, and let the yarn settle.

A third mistake is losing track of your stitch count. If a pattern says "yarn over, skip 1," you must do both — the yarn over adds a stitch, the skip removes one, and your count stays the same. If you do only the yarn over and forget the skip, you will have an extra stitch and your row will be wider than it should be. Use a stitch marker or a row counter to keep track.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the difference between SKP and K2tog?

SKP (slip, knit, pass over) leans left. K2tog (knit two together) leans right. Both decrease one stitch. Use SKP on the left side of shaping and K2tog on the right side to make the shaping symmetrical and balanced.

Can I skip more than one stitch at a time?

Yes, but it is rare. You can slip multiple stitches, knit one, then pass all the slipped stitches over. This creates a steeper decrease. Most patterns will specify how many to slip and pass. Tension becomes even more important with multiple skips — work the stitch after the pass-over at normal tension, not tight.

What does "slip 1, knit 2 together, pass slipped stitch over" mean?

This is a double decrease that removes two stitches. Slip one stitch knitwise, knit two together, then pass the slipped stitch over the result. It is used in lace and shaping where you need to remove two stitches at once and create a centered decrease.

Why does my skipped stitch look loose?

The stitch after the skip is probably too loose. Work it at your normal tension, not looser. The yarn will settle on the next row. If the whole column of skipped stitches is loose, tighten the stitch when ready after the skip just slightly — not much, just enough to anchor the skips above it.

Do I have to use SKP, or can I use a different decrease?

It depends on the pattern. If the pattern specifies SKP, use SKP — the lean direction matters for the design. If the pattern just says "decrease 1," you can use SKP, K2tog, or another decrease method. Check the finished look you want: left-leaning or right-leaning.