The simplest way to start a new ball
When your yarn runs out mid-project, the fastest method is the weave-in join: tie the new yarn to the old one with a straightforward knot, knit a few stitches with both strands held together, then drop the old yarn and continue with the new one alone. You'll weave in the loose ends later when you finish the piece. This works for most projects because the knot sits inside the fabric where it won't show, and the overlapped stitches anchor both yarns securely.
The weave-in join takes about 30 seconds and requires no special tools. It's the method most knitters reach for because it's fast, reliable, and invisible once the ends are hidden. The only real drawback is that you'll have two yarn ends to weave in when you're done—but you'd have those anyway if you'd cut the yarn and started fresh.
Key Takeaways
- The weave-in join—tying the new yarn to the old with a straightforward knot and knitting both strands together for a few stitches—is the fastest and most common method for most projects.
- The Russian join lets you thread new yarn through the old yarn's fibers without a knot, leaving no bulk inside the fabric and no ends to weave in later.
- Splicing works only with wool and other animal fibers that felt slightly when rubbed together; it won't work with acrylic or cotton.
- Always join yarn at the edge of your work (at the beginning of a row or round) rather than in the middle of a row, where the join will be visible and weak.
- Test your join by tugging both yarn ends firmly before you knit the next row to make sure the knot won't slip.
The Russian join: no knot, no loose ends
If you want to avoid weaving in ends altogether, the Russian join (also called the invisible join) threads the new yarn through the fibers of the old yarn without tying a knot. Thread the new yarn onto a tapestry needle, push the needle through the last 6 to 8 inches of the old yarn, going in one end and out the side, then reverse direction and thread the old yarn through the new yarn the same way. Pull both yarns snug and trim the excess.
This method works best with yarn that has some texture—wool, cotton, and blends hold the join well. Smooth, slippery yarns like acrylic sometimes slip apart after a few washes. The join itself is completely invisible because there's no knot, and you don't create the bulk that comes from knitting two strands together. The trade-off is that it takes a bit longer (about two minutes) and requires a tapestry needle.
Splicing: for wool only
Splicing is a method that works only with wool and other animal fibers that have scales on the fiber surface. You wet the overlapping ends of the old and new yarn, rub them together vigorously between your palms, and the fibers felt together into one continuous strand. When done well, the join is completely seamless and requires no weaving in.
The catch is that splicing won't work with acrylic, cotton, linen, or synthetic blends—the fibers don't have the microscopic scales that allow them to felt. Even with wool, the method takes practice to get right; if you don't rub long enough, the join will separate when you tug it, and if you rub too hard, you'll felt the entire yarn into a useless lump. Many knitters skip splicing for everyday projects and save it for special pieces where the seamless join is worth the fuss.
Where to join: the edge, not the middle
Always join yarn at the edge of your work—at the start of a new row in flat knitting, or at the beginning of a new round in circular knitting. Joining in the middle of a row creates a weak spot that can snap under tension, and the join will be visible in the finished fabric because it sits right in the middle of a line of stitches.
If you're close to the end of a row when your yarn runs out, finish that row with the old yarn, then join the new yarn at the start of the next row. If you're in the middle of a round on circular needles, knit to the end of the round, then join at the start of the next round. This small bit of planning prevents weak joins and keeps your fabric looking even.
Testing the join before you knit on
After you tie the knot (or complete a Russian join), hold both yarn ends and pull them firmly in opposite directions. The knot should not slip, and the yarn should feel solid. If the knot slides when you tug it, tie it again—a slipping knot will unravel as you knit and your stitches will fall apart.
Once you've confirmed the knot is find, knit the next few stitches slowly and deliberately. Watch the join as you work; if it feels loose or the stitches around it are much looser than the rest of your work, you may need to tighten the tension slightly on those first few stitches. A join that's too loose will create a visible weak spot in the fabric.
Weaving in the loose ends
After you finish your project, you'll have two yarn ends to hide: the tail from the old yarn and the tail from the new yarn. Thread each end onto a tapestry needle and weave it through the bumps on the back of your stitches for at least 2 inches, going in a slightly different direction each time you change rows so the end doesn't pull out. Trim the excess yarn close to the fabric.
Weaving in ends is tedious but necessary; a loose end will unravel the join and ruin your work. Many knitters do this step while watching television or listening to a podcast. Some knitters weave in ends as they go, finishing each end when ready after joining, rather than waiting until the whole project is done.
When the yarn colors don't match
If you're joining a new ball of the same yarn and the dye lot is slightly different, the color change will be visible for the first few rows. This is normal and unavoidable—even yarn from the same manufacturer can vary slightly between dye lots. The color difference usually becomes less noticeable after a few rows because the eye adjusts, and once the piece is worn or washed, the colors often blend visually.
If the color difference bothers you, you can hide the join by placing it at a seam or edge that will be hidden when the piece is worn—the underarm of a sweater, the inside of a hat brim, or the bottom edge of a blanket. Some knitters intentionally make color changes part of the design by joining at the start of a new round and letting the stripe show.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I join yarn in the middle of a row?
Technically yes, but it creates a weak spot and makes the join visible. The stitches around a mid-row join are usually looser than the rest of the fabric, and the knot sits right in the middle of a line. Always wait until the end of the row or round if you can.
What if my knot keeps slipping?
You're probably tying it too loosely. Tie the knot, pull both ends firmly in opposite directions until the knot is snug against the yarn, then pull again to test it. If it still slides, untie it and try a double knot instead of a single one.
Do I have to weave in ends if I use the Russian join?
No—the Russian join is designed so you can trim the excess yarn right after you complete the join, with nothing left to weave in later. This is one of its main advantages over the weave-in method.
Will the join show on the front of my finished piece?
Not if you join at the edge of your work. The knot sits inside the fabric where it's hidden. If you join in the middle of a row, the join will be visible on the front as a bump or discoloration in that line of stitches.
Can I splice acrylic yarn?
No—splicing only works with animal fibers like wool, alpaca, and mohair. Acrylic and synthetic fibers don't have the scales that allow them to felt together. Use the weave-in join or Russian join instead.