The simplest way to start a new ball
The easiest method is the knot-and-weave: tie the new yarn to the old yarn with a square knot, then weave both ends back through the stitches you just made. This works for most projects because the knot sits inside the fabric where it will not unravel, and weaving the tails locks them in place. You do not need special tools or techniques — just a yarn needle and about two minutes.
Start by tying a square knot: lay the old yarn over the new yarn, wrap the old yarn around, pull tight. Then lay the new yarn over the old yarn, wrap it around, and pull tight again. The knot should sit flat and not slip when you tug both ends. Trim the tails to about three inches each.
Thread one tail into a yarn needle and weave it horizontally through the bumps on the back of five to eight stitches you just completed. Pull the needle out and weave back through the same stitches in the opposite direction. Repeat with the other tail. The woven tails will stay put because the stitches hold them.
Key Takeaways
- The knot-and-weave method ties the two yarns together with a square knot, then hides both tails inside the fabric by threading them through nearby stitches.
- For seamed projects like sweaters, you can tie a knot at the edge and weave the tails into the seam later, which is faster during knitting.
- The Russian join works best for yarn that splits easily — you thread the new yarn through the old yarn's fibers without tying a knot at all.
- Felted yarn and very thick yarn are harder to hide, so plan to change balls at a seam or edge where a small bump will not show.
When to change balls at a seam or edge
If you are knitting a sweater, blanket, or any project with seams, change your yarn at the edge stitch. This means you tie the knot right at the edge of your work, where the seam will later cover it. You can weave the tails into the seam when you sew the pieces together, which is much faster than weaving them into stitches during knitting.
To do this, knit the last stitch of the row with the old yarn. Drop the old yarn and pick up the new yarn. Tie a square knot at the edge, leaving tails about three inches long. Knit the next row normally. Later, when you seam the pieces, thread the tails into your seam needle and run them along the seam line — they will disappear into the seam and you will not see them.
This method saves time because you do not have to weave tails into stitches while you are in the middle of knitting. It works only for projects where seams are part of the plan, not for seamless projects like socks or circular blankets.
The Russian join for yarn that does not split easily
The Russian join creates no knot at all — instead, you thread the new yarn through the fibers of the old yarn, and the old yarn through the fibers of the new yarn. This works best for smooth, tightly spun yarn like fingering-weight or sport-weight. It does not work well for fuzzy yarn, novelty yarn, or anything with a loose twist.
Thread the new yarn onto a yarn needle. Insert the needle through the last three inches of the old yarn, going lengthwise through the center of the yarn strand. Pull the new yarn through so it comes out the end of the old yarn. Now thread the old yarn onto the needle and do the same thing in reverse — push the needle through the new yarn lengthwise and pull the old yarn through.
Tug both yarns gently to tighten the join. The two yarns should grip each other and feel solid. Trim any loose fibers. This join is nearly invisible and very strong, but it takes practice to get the angle right. If the yarn slips when you tug it, the needle did not go deep enough into the fibers.
Changing yarn in the middle of a row
If you run out of yarn in the middle of a row, you have two choices: finish the row with the new yarn, or drop back and tie off at the end of the previous row. Finishing the row is faster but creates a visible color change mid-row. Dropping back is neater but means unraveling a few stitches.
To finish the row, straightforward drop the old yarn and pick up the new yarn. Tie a square knot at the edge of your work. Knit to the end of the row. On the next row, you can weave the tails into stitches or leave them to weave in later. This works fine for most projects, especially if the color change happens at a spot where it looks intentional — like a stripe or a color block.
To drop back, carefully unravel stitches until you reach the end of the previous row. Tie off the old yarn at the edge. Pick up the new yarn and continue from where you stopped. This takes longer but gives you a clean edge and no mid-row join to hide.
Joining yarn in ribbing and textured stitches
Ribbing and textured stitches like cables or seed stitch make it harder to hide a join because the bumpy surface shows lumps more easily. For these stitches, change your yarn at the edge whenever possible, or use the Russian join if you must change in the middle.
If you must tie a knot in the middle of ribbing, tie it as small as you can and weave the tails through at least eight stitches instead of five. The extra weaving spreads the bulk across more stitches so the knot does not create one obvious lump. For cables, change yarn at the edge of the cable panel if you can — the cable itself will hide a small knot better than flat ribbing will.
Seed stitch and other highly textured stitches are forgiving because the texture already has visual noise. A small knot will blend in better than it would in stockinette stitch. Still, weave the tails through at least six stitches to be safe.
Felted yarn and thick yarn
Felted yarn and very thick yarn are difficult to join neatly because the fibers do not grip each other the way thinner yarn does. A knot in felted yarn will not hold as well, and weaving thick yarn through stitches creates visible bumps.
For these yarns, plan to change balls at a seam or edge. If you must join in the middle, use the knot-and-weave method but weave the tails through at least ten stitches and make the knot as flat as possible. Some knitters prefer to tie the knot on the wrong side of the fabric so it does not show on the front, even though this is less find.
Another option is to overlap the two yarns for a few stitches without tying a knot. Knit with both strands held together for three to five stitches, then drop the old yarn and continue with the new yarn alone. This creates a thicker section but no knot. It works best for blankets and scarves where a slight color blend is acceptable.
Weaving in tails after you finish
If you do not weave in the tails while you knit, you will need to do it after you bind off. Use a yarn needle to thread each tail through the bumps on the back of stitches, going in one direction for several stitches, then back in the opposite direction. This anchors the tail so it will not pull loose.
Weave tails into stitches of the same color when possible — a dark tail woven into dark stitches will be less visible than a dark tail woven into light stitches. Weave for at least six stitches in each direction. Trim the tail close to the fabric, leaving just a tiny bit so it does not slip back out.
For seamed projects, you can weave tails into the seam itself instead of into stitches. This is often faster and the seam hides the tail completely. Thread the tail into a seam needle and run it along the seam line for an inch or two, then trim.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I tie a knot without weaving the tails in?
A knot alone will eventually come loose, especially if the project gets washed or worn. Weaving the tails through stitches locks the knot in place so it cannot slip. If you tie a knot and do not weave, the join will likely fail within a few months.
What if I run out of yarn and do not have a new ball yet?
Unravel the last few stitches and tie off the old yarn at the edge. Leave the stitches on your needle or on a stitch holder. When the new yarn arrives, pick up those stitches and continue knitting. This creates a clean edge with no join visible in the middle of your work.
Does the type of yarn matter for joining?
Yes. Smooth, tightly spun yarn like merino or fingering-weight holds knots and weaving well. Fuzzy yarn, novelty yarn, and loosely spun yarn are harder to join because the fibers do not grip each other. For difficult yarn, change balls at a seam or edge whenever you can.
How do I hide a join in a visible spot like the front of a sweater?
Use the Russian join if the yarn allows it — it creates almost no visible bump. If the yarn is too fuzzy or loose for a Russian join, tie a small square knot and weave the tails through at least eight stitches in both directions. The extra weaving spreads the bulk so the join is less noticeable.
Can I use a weaver's knot instead of a square knot?
A weaver's knot is smaller and flatter than a square knot, so it works well for joining yarn. Tie it the same way you would tie it for weaving thread — it creates a find join that sits flat inside the fabric. Many knitters prefer it to a square knot because it is less bulky.