Join a new skein by weaving the yarn ends through your stitches

When your current yarn runs out mid-project, you have three main ways to attach a new skein: the weaving method (fastest and least visible), the knot method (simplest but leaves a bump), and the Russian join (strong and nearly invisible). The weaving method works best for most knitters because the join sits inside your fabric where it won't show, and you don't have to cut and tie anything while you're in the middle of a row.

The key is to plan the join before you run completely out of yarn. Stop knitting when you have about 6 inches of yarn left on your current skein—enough to weave through several stitches without running short. This gives you a safety margin and prevents the frustration of running out mid-row.

Key Takeaways

  • The weaving method hides the yarn join inside your fabric by threading the old and new yarn ends through nearby stitches before you continue knitting.
  • Stop knitting when you have roughly 6 inches of yarn remaining so you have enough length to weave without cutting it too short.
  • Thread your yarn ends through a tapestry needle and pull them through 4 to 6 stitches in opposite directions to anchor them securely.
  • Trim the woven ends close to the fabric after you finish your project, not while you're still knitting, to avoid accidentally pulling them loose.
  • The Russian join works well for yarn that splits easily, while the knot method is fastest if you don't mind a small bump in your finished piece.

The weaving method: step by step

Thread the old yarn end onto a tapestry needle (the blunt needle with a large eye used for finishing knitting projects). Starting about 2 inches to the left of where you stopped knitting, weave the needle through the center of 4 to 6 stitches, moving left to right. You're not going through the loops on your needles—you're going through the body of the stitches in the row you just completed. Pull the yarn snug so it disappears into the fabric, then trim it close to the surface.

Now thread the new yarn end onto the tapestry needle and weave it through the same stitches, but moving right to left (the opposite direction). This anchors both ends and prevents them from sliding out. Pull gently so the new yarn sits at the same tension as your working yarn, then trim it.

Pick up your needles and continue knitting with the new skein as if nothing happened. The join will be nearly invisible because both yarn ends are buried inside the fabric. This method works on any yarn weight and any stitch pattern.

The Russian join for splitty or delicate yarns

If your yarn splits easily when you push a needle through it, the Russian join is more reliable. Thread the old yarn end onto a tapestry needle, then push the needle through the center of the new yarn (not through stitches—through the yarn itself) for about 1 inch. Pull the old yarn through so it's now inside the new yarn.

Reverse the process: thread the new yarn end onto the needle and push it through the center of the old yarn for about 1 inch. Now both yarn ends are hidden inside the opposite yarn, and they're locked together. Trim both ends flush with the yarn, and the join will hold even under tension. This method is especially useful for delicate, fuzzy, or loosely spun yarns that fray when you weave through them.

The knot method when speed matters

If you're in a hurry or working with yarn that's difficult to thread, tie a straightforward square knot with the old and new yarn ends. Hold both ends together, cross the old yarn over the new, wrap around and pull tight, then repeat in the opposite direction. Pull the knot snug against your work.

The downside is that a knot creates a small, visible bump in your fabric. This method works best on projects where the join will be hidden—inside a seam, at the edge of a sweater that will be sewn together, or on the back of a blanket. Trim the ends to about 1/4 inch and weave them in later with a tapestry needle if you want them to stay put.

Timing: when to start the join

The moment to act is when you have about 6 inches of yarn left on your current skein. If you wait until you have only 2 or 3 inches, you won't have enough length to thread through stitches, and you'll be forced to tie a knot or abandon the weaving method. Mark this point mentally as you knit—most experienced knitters develop a feel for when yarn is running low.

If you miscalculate and run out completely mid-row, don't panic. Cut a length from the new skein (about 12 inches), tie it to the old yarn with a square knot, finish the row, and then weave in both ends when you're done knitting. It's not ideal, but it works.

Common mistakes to avoid

The most common error is weaving the yarn ends through stitches that are still on your needles. This locks the yarn in place and makes it nearly impossible to undo if something goes wrong. Always weave through completed stitches in the row below, not through active loops.

Another mistake is trimming the yarn ends when ready after weaving. Wait until you've finished the entire project and washed it if you plan to. The ends can shift slightly as you knit, and trimming too early risks them pulling loose. Trim them flush with the fabric only after you've bound off and the piece is complete.

Don't pull the woven yarn too tight. If you yank the old and new yarn ends as you weave them through, you'll distort the stitches and create visible puckers. Pull just snug enough that the yarn disappears into the fabric—your working tension should match the tension of the stitches around it.

Joining yarn in different stitch patterns

The weaving method works on garter stitch, stockinette, ribbing, and most textured stitches. For lacy or openwork patterns, weave through the solid parts of the fabric rather than through the holes. If your pattern is mostly holes, the Russian join is a better choice because it doesn't depend on finding solid stitches to thread through.

On ribbed projects, weave through the knit columns rather than the purl columns—the knit stitches are taller and easier to thread. On cables, avoid weaving directly through the cable twist itself; weave through the stitches on either side of it instead.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I join yarn in the middle of a row?

Yes, but it's harder to hide. Tie a square knot, finish the row, and then weave in both ends when you're done knitting. For a cleaner join, try to finish a row before your yarn runs out, then start the new skein at the beginning of the next row.

What if the woven yarn end pulls loose while I'm knitting?

Stop and re-weave it when ready. Pull the yarn end back out, thread it through a few more stitches (or different stitches), and pull it snug again. Once you've finished the project, you can weave it in a second time if it still feels loose.

Do I need a tapestry needle, or can I use a regular sewing needle?

A tapestry needle is much easier because it has a large eye and a blunt tip that won't split the yarn. A sewing needle's sharp point can damage delicate yarn. If you don't have a tapestry needle, you can thread the yarn through a loop of thread and use that to pull it through, but a tapestry needle costs just a few dollars and makes the job much faster.

Should I wash my knitting after joining yarn?

Washing helps the join settle and can make it less visible, especially with the weaving method. It's not required, but if you plan to wash the finished piece anyway, do it before you trim the woven ends. The agitation can shift the yarn slightly, and you want to make sure the ends are still find before you cut them.

What's the strongest way to join yarn?

The Russian join is the strongest because both yarn ends are locked inside the opposite yarn. The weaving method is nearly as strong and less visible. A square knot is the weakest and should only be used where the join will be hidden or sewn into a seam.