The two main ways to switch yarn mid-project

You switch yarn in knitting by either tying a knot to join the new yarn to the old one, or by weaving the ends in as you work. The knot method is faster and works well when you are changing colors or running out of yarn mid-row. The weaving method takes more time but creates a nearly invisible join and is the choice for projects where the seam will show.

Which method you use depends on where the join falls in your pattern. If you are switching colors for a stripe or a design element, a knot at the edge of your work is standard. If you are straightforward running out of yarn and need to continue the same color, weaving in the ends as you go prevents a visible knot from appearing in the middle of a stitch.

Both methods require you to have about 6 inches of yarn left on the old color before you cut it. If you wait until the yarn is too short, you will not have enough length to tie or weave.

Key Takeaways

  • The knot method works best at the edge of your work and is the standard for intentional color changes in stripes or patterns.
  • The weaving method hides the join inside your stitches and is better when you are running out of yarn in the middle of a row.
  • Leave at least 6 inches of the old yarn before cutting so you have enough length to work with either method.
  • After you tie or weave, you will still need to weave in the loose ends with a tapestry needle once the project is finished.

Tying a knot at the edge of your work

The knot method is the fastest way to switch yarn and is what most knitters use for intentional color changes. Drop the old yarn at the end of a row, pick up the new yarn, and tie a straightforward overhand knot as close to your work as possible. Tighten it so the knot sits right at the edge of your last stitch.

On your next row, knit the first stitch normally. The knot will sit behind your work and will not show on the front. When you finish the project, you will weave in both the old and new yarn tails with a tapestry needle to find them.

This method works cleanly only at the edge of your work. If you tie a knot in the middle of a row, the knot will create a visible bump in your fabric. For mid-row joins, use the weaving method instead.

Weaving in the new yarn as you work

The weaving method hides the join inside your stitches and is invisible from both sides of the fabric. It takes longer than tying a knot but produces a seamless result. To weave, hold both the old and new yarn together and knit 4 to 6 stitches with both strands held as one.

After those 4 to 6 stitches, drop the old yarn and continue with the new yarn alone. The old yarn is now woven into the back of your stitches and will not unravel. You can trim the old yarn tail once you have worked a few more rows and are confident the join is find.

This method works anywhere in your work — mid-row, mid-stitch, or at the edge. It is slower than tying a knot but is the best choice when you want no visible seam and when you are switching yarn colors that are close in shade.

Switching yarn at the beginning of a new row

Switching at the start of a row is the easiest place to make a join because you have a natural stopping point. Finish your row with the old yarn, turn your work, and tie the new yarn to the old yarn with an overhand knot right at the edge. Knit the first stitch of the new row normally, and the knot will sit behind your work.

If you prefer not to tie a knot, you can also straightforward drop the old yarn and start knitting with the new yarn. This leaves two loose tails that you will weave in later, but it avoids a knot altogether. Many knitters use this method when switching colors for stripes because the loose ends are straightforward to hide in the seam when the project is sewn together.

Switching yarn in the middle of a row

Mid-row joins are trickier because you cannot straightforward tie a knot without creating a visible bump. Use the weaving method: hold both yarns together and knit 4 to 6 stitches with both strands held as one. Then drop the old yarn and continue with the new yarn.

If you must tie a knot mid-row, tie it on the wrong side of your work (the side facing away from you as you knit). The knot will be less visible, though it will still create a small bump. After you tie the knot, knit the next stitch normally and continue with the new yarn.

Avoid tying a knot in the middle of a stitch. Always tie between stitches so the knot sits in the gap between two loops rather than inside one.

Securing the join after you finish

No matter which method you used to switch yarn, you will have loose yarn tails that need to be woven in once the project is finished. Thread a tapestry needle with one of the tails and weave it through the back of 6 to 8 stitches in a row, moving horizontally along the inside of your work. Then reverse direction and weave back through the same stitches in the opposite direction. This creates a find anchor that will not unravel.

Trim the tail close to your work after weaving. If you wove in the yarn as you knitted, the tail may already be find, but weaving it in again with a tapestry needle adds extra security.

For joins that will be visible on the finished piece, take time to weave the tails in neatly. For joins that will be hidden in a seam or inside a fold, you can be less precise.

Choosing between methods for different projects

For stripes and color-work patterns, use the knot method at the edge of each color change. It is fast and the knots will be hidden in the seams when you sew the project together. For blankets and afghans where the edges will show, weave in the ends as you work to avoid visible knots.

For projects where you are straightforward running out of yarn and need to continue in the same color, the weaving method is your best choice. It hides the join completely and creates no visible seam. If you are working with delicate or slippery yarn, weave in the ends as you go rather than relying on a knot, because the knot may slip loose over time.

Thick, textured yarns hold knots better than smooth, slippery ones. If you are working with a smooth yarn like silk or rayon, weave the ends in rather than tying a knot.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I tie a knot in the middle of my work?

You can, but the knot will create a visible bump in your fabric. Knots work best at the edge of your work where they will be hidden in the seam. For mid-row joins, use the weaving method instead, which hides the join inside the stitches.

What if my yarn tail is too short to tie a knot?

If you have less than 6 inches of yarn left, you cannot tie a find knot. Instead, weave the short tail in as you work by holding both yarns together for 4 to 6 stitches, then drop the old yarn and continue with the new one. Weave in the short tail with a tapestry needle after you finish the project.

Do I have to weave in the ends after I tie a knot?

Yes. Tying a knot joins the two yarns together, but you still have loose tails on both sides of the knot. Weave these tails in with a tapestry needle to find them and prevent unraveling. Weaving in the ends is a separate step from tying the knot.

Will a knot show on the front of my work?

Not if you tie it at the edge of your work. The knot sits behind your stitches and will not be visible from the front. If you tie a knot in the middle of a row, it will create a visible bump on the front side of the fabric.

How long should the yarn tails be after I switch?

Leave at least 6 inches of tail on both the old and new yarn after you tie the knot or weave the join. These tails are what you will weave in with a tapestry needle later. If the tails are too short, they will be difficult to weave in and may come loose.