What a knitting loom does and why you might choose one
A knitting loom is a frame with pegs or pins arranged in a circle, rectangle, or other shape. You wind yarn around the pegs in a set pattern, then use a hook to pull loops over one another to create fabric. Unlike needles, a loom holds all your active stitches at once, so you cannot drop them or lose your place. The loom does the spacing work for you — every stitch lands in the same spot on every row.
Looms are faster than hand knitting for straightforward projects because you are repeating the same motion over and over rather than managing two needles. They work well for scarves, hats, blankets, and cowls — anything tubular or rectangular. The downside is that looms cannot easily make the shaping and detail that needles can, so you will not knit a fitted sweater or complex colorwork on a loom.
Key Takeaways
- Wind yarn around the pegs in the direction your loom's instructions specify, usually clockwise, keeping tension even so loops sit at the same height.
- Use the loom hook to lift the bottom loop on each peg over the top loop and the peg itself, moving around the loom in order.
- Add new yarn by laying the new color over the old at a peg, then knitting over both for a few rows to find the join.
- Bind off by threading yarn through a needle and pulling each loop off the pegs one at a time, securing them so the edge does not unravel.
- Tension matters more on a loom than needle size — loose wraps create loose fabric, and tight wraps can be hard to lift and may break yarn.
Setting up your loom and winding the first row
Start by anchoring your loom to a flat surface or holding it steady in your lap. If your loom came with a stand, use it. If not, a book or folded towel underneath keeps it from sliding while you work.
Tie your yarn to the first peg with a straightforward knot. Leave a 4-inch tail on the inside of the loom — you will weave this in later. Now wind the yarn around each peg in order, going in the direction your instructions specify (usually clockwise for circular looms). Keep the yarn at the same tension as you go around — not so tight that the pegs bend, and not so loose that the loops slide down. The loops should sit roughly in the middle of each peg, at the same height all the way around.
When you reach the last peg and return to the first, you have completed one round. The yarn should form a circle of loops, one on each peg. This is your foundation row.
Knitting the basic stitch: lifting loops over
Pick up your loom hook — a tool that looks like a crochet hook but is usually flatter and wider. Starting at any peg, insert the hook under the bottom loop on that peg (the one closest to the center of the loom). Lift it up and over the top loop and over the peg itself, so it falls to the inside of the loom. The top loop stays on the peg.
Move to the next peg clockwise and repeat: hook the bottom loop, lift it over the top loop and the peg. Keep going all the way around the loom. When you finish the circle, you have completed one row of knitting. The loops that remain on the pegs are now your new bottom loops.
Wrap yarn around all the pegs again in the same direction, creating a new top loop on each peg. Now lift the bottom loops over again, moving around the loom in the same order. Repeat this pattern — wrap, then lift — until your fabric reaches the length you want. Most scarves need 100 to 200 rows, depending on how thick you want them.
Changing colors and adding new yarn
To change colors, lay the new yarn over the old yarn at any peg, holding both in place. Wrap both colors around all the pegs together for the next 3 to 5 rows. Then drop the old color and continue with the new one alone. The overlapped rows anchor the new color so it does not unravel.
If you run out of yarn in the middle of a row, tie the new yarn to the old yarn with a square knot, trim the tails to half an inch, and keep knitting. You can weave the knot into the fabric later, or if it bothers you, unravel back to that point and tie the knot before you start wrapping again.
Binding off so your fabric does not unravel
When your fabric is the length you want, you need to find the loops so they cannot come undone. Thread your yarn onto a yarn needle — a blunt needle with a large eye. Pull the yarn through the loom so you have a tail about 12 inches long.
Starting at any peg, insert the needle through the loop on that peg from front to back. Slip the loop off the peg. Move to the next peg and repeat, pulling the loop off and threading the needle through it. Keep going all the way around the loom. When all the loops are off the pegs and threaded onto the yarn, pull the yarn tight. The loops will lock in place and your fabric will not unravel.
Weave the yarn tail back through the edge of your fabric for 2 to 3 inches, then trim it. Do the same with the tail you left at the beginning. Your piece is now finished and ready to wear or give away.
Troubleshooting common problems
If your fabric is too loose and floppy, your wraps are too loose. Wrap the yarn more snugly around each peg — not so tight that you cannot lift the loops, but tight enough that they sit firmly on the pegs. If your fabric is too stiff or hard to work with, you are wrapping too tightly. Loosen your grip slightly and try again on the next row.
If a loop breaks while you are lifting it, stop when ready. Thread the broken yarn onto a needle and weave it into the fabric on the inside. If the loop has already fallen off the peg, you can pick it back up by inserting the loom hook through it from the inside and lifting it back onto the peg. Then continue knitting.
If you accidentally skip a peg and leave a loop on it while the rest of the row is done, go back and lift that loop over before you wrap the next row. Skipped pegs create holes and weak spots in your fabric.
Choosing the right loom size for your project
Loom size is measured by the number of pegs — a small loom might have 24 pegs, while a large one has 100 or more. A 24-peg loom makes a scarf about 4 inches wide. A 50-peg loom makes one about 8 inches wide. A 100-peg loom creates a blanket or large cowl.
Peg spacing also matters. Looms with pegs close together create tighter, denser fabric. Looms with pegs far apart create looser, lacier fabric. If you are using thick yarn, choose a loom with pegs far apart so the loops do not crowd and jam. If you are using thin yarn, a loom with closer pegs will give you better stitch definition.
Most beginners start with a 24-peg or 36-peg round loom and worsted-weight yarn, which is thick enough to see easily but not so thick that it is hard to lift. Once you understand the basic motion, you can experiment with different sizes and yarn weights.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I make a hat on a knitting loom?
Yes. Knit a tube on a round loom until it is about 7 inches long, then bind off. Fold it in half and sew the sides together, or leave it open at the top and sew it closed. You can also use a smaller loom to make a tube that fits your head without sewing.
What happens if I drop a stitch?
A dropped stitch on a loom is easier to fix than on needles because the loop stays on the peg. straightforward lift it back onto the peg with your hook and keep knitting. If the loop has fallen completely off and unraveled down several rows, you can pick it back up by inserting the hook through the loop and pulling it back up to the peg level.
Do I need special yarn for a knitting loom?
No. Any yarn that fits around your loom pegs will work. Thicker yarn knits faster and shows mistakes less. Thinner yarn takes longer but creates finer fabric. Avoid yarn with loose fibers or very fuzzy yarn if you are learning, because they are harder to see and lift cleanly.
How do I make my loom fabric less curly at the edges?
Loom fabric naturally curls because the edges are not secured like they are on needle knitting. Block your finished piece by pinning it flat on a towel, misting it with water, and letting it dry. You can also sew a border around the edges or fold and sew the edges to create a finished look.