Stockinette stitch and knit stitch are not the same thing
Knit stitch is a single stitch — the basic loop you make when you insert your needle through a loop of yarn and pull a new loop through. Stockinette stitch is a pattern made by alternating rows of knit stitches and purl stitches. When you work stockinette, you knit one row, turn your work, purl the next row, turn again, and repeat. The result is the smooth, flat fabric you see on most store-bought sweaters and socks.
The confusion happens because stockinette looks like it is made entirely of knit stitches — the front side shows a neat column of V-shapes that look like individual knit stitches stacked on top of each other. But that smooth front surface only appears because you are alternating knit and purl rows. If you knitted every single row without purling, you would get garter stitch instead — a bumpy, ridged fabric that looks completely different.
Key Takeaways
- Knit stitch is one individual stitch; stockinette stitch is a two-row pattern that combines knit and purl rows.
- Stockinette creates a smooth, flat fabric with V-shaped columns on the front and horizontal bumps on the back.
- Knitting every row produces garter stitch, not stockinette, even though you are using the knit stitch in every row.
- Stockinette is the most common stitch pattern in knitting projects because it works up quickly and drapes well.
- The purl row is essential to stockinette — without it, you lose the smooth appearance that defines the pattern.
How stockinette stitch is actually constructed
To work stockinette stitch in flat knitting (on straight needles), you knit across the entire first row. When you reach the end, you turn your work around. On the second row, you purl across the entire row. Then you turn again and knit the third row. This alternating pattern continues for as long as you are making the fabric.
The purl row is what makes stockinette different from knit stitch alone. A purl stitch is the reverse of a knit stitch — you insert your needle from right to left instead of left to right, and the yarn sits in front of your needle instead of behind it. When you purl a row, you are creating the back side of knit stitches. That is why the back of stockinette (called the reverse stockinette side) looks bumpy and textured, while the front looks smooth.
If you are working in the round on circular needles, stockinette works differently: you knit every single round without purling. This is because when you work in the round, you never turn your work, so the "front" of your fabric always faces you. Knitting every round automatically creates the stockinette pattern.
Why the confusion exists between these two terms
Many beginners think stockinette and knit stitch are the same because the front of stockinette is covered in knit stitches. When you look at a finished stockinette fabric, every visible stitch on the front side is a knit stitch — you do not see the purl stitches because they are on the back. This makes it straightforward to assume the whole thing is made of knit stitches.
The terminology also varies depending on where you learned to knit. Some older knitting books and patterns use "garter stitch" and "stockinette stitch" as the main categories, and they do not always clearly explain that stockinette requires both knit and purl rows. Newer resources tend to be clearer about the distinction between a single stitch type and a stitch pattern.
What stockinette looks like compared to other patterns
Stockinette has a distinctive appearance that makes it straightforward to spot once you know what to look for. The front side shows neat, vertical columns of V-shapes, all facing the same direction. The fabric lies flat and smooth, and it drapes well — this is why it is used for fitted garments like sweaters and fitted cardigans. The back side (reverse stockinette) has horizontal bumps that look almost like garter stitch.
Garter stitch, by contrast, has bumps on both sides because every row is a knit row. The fabric is thicker and less drapey than stockinette. Reverse stockinette (using the bumpy side as the front) is sometimes chosen deliberately for texture, especially in modern designs.
Ribbed patterns, like the cuffs on socks and sweaters, combine knit and purl stitches in the same row — for example, knit two stitches, purl two stitches, repeat across. This creates vertical columns of texture that stretch and contract, which is why ribbing is used at edges.
Common mistakes when starting stockinette
The most common mistake is forgetting to purl the return row. A new knitter will knit a row, turn the work, and knit the next row as well, creating garter stitch by accident. The fabric will look bumpy instead of smooth, and the knitter may think they did something wrong with their knit stitch itself.
Another frequent error is inconsistent tension between knit and purl rows. Purl stitches often come out looser than knit stitches because the yarn position feels less natural to many knitters. This creates uneven fabric where some rows look tighter than others. The fix is to practice purl stitches until they feel as automatic as knit stitches, and to pay attention to how tightly you are holding the yarn.
Some knitters also struggle with the edges of stockinette curling inward. This happens because stockinette naturally wants to curl at the top and bottom edges. The solution is to add a border of garter stitch (a few rows of knit every row) or ribbing at the edges, or to block the finished piece firmly with steam or water.
When to use stockinette versus other stitches
Stockinette is the right choice when you want a smooth, drapey fabric that shows off the color and texture of your yarn. It works up quickly because the rhythm of knit-purl-knit-purl becomes automatic. Most garment patterns use stockinette as the main stitch because it is versatile and flattering.
Garter stitch is better when you want a thicker, bouncier fabric that does not curl. It is often used for blankets, scarves, and dishcloths because it is sturdy and reversible. Garter stitch also hides mistakes better than stockinette because the bumpy texture camouflages uneven stitches.
Ribbed patterns are essential for edges and cuffs because they grip and hold their shape. Reverse stockinette is chosen when you want the textured side to show, either for visual interest or to make a pattern stand out.
How to practice stockinette stitch
The best way to learn stockinette is to cast on about 20 stitches and work at least 20 rows. Use a yarn and needle size that feels comfortable in your hands — not too thin, not too thick. Focus on keeping your tension even and making sure you purl every other row without skipping.
As you work, pay attention to how the fabric changes. After the first few rows, you should start to see the smooth V-pattern forming on the front. If you see bumps on the front, you have either knitted two rows in a row or purled two rows in a row. Stop, look at what you did, and fix it before continuing.
Once you can work stockinette without thinking about which row comes next, try a small project like a dishcloth or a straightforward scarf. This will teach you how stockinette behaves in a real project and show you how the curling edges work.
Frequently Asked Questions
If I knit every row, what stitch pattern do I get?
You get garter stitch, not stockinette. Garter stitch has bumps on both sides and is much thicker and less drapey than stockinette. Stockinette requires alternating knit and purl rows to create the smooth appearance.
Can I make stockinette stitch on circular needles by knitting every round?
Yes. When you work in the round on circular needles, you knit every round without purling, and this automatically creates stockinette stitch. The difference is that you never turn your work, so the front always faces you.
Why does my stockinette stitch look bumpy on the front?
You are likely knitting two rows in a row instead of alternating knit and purl rows. Check your pattern to confirm you should be purling every other row. If you are, make sure you are actually purling and not accidentally knitting instead.
Is reverse stockinette the same as garter stitch?
No. Reverse stockinette is the back side of stockinette stitch (made by knit-purl alternation), while garter stitch is made by knitting every row. They look similar but are made differently and behave differently — garter stitch is thicker and does not curl.
Do I need to purl if I only want to make garter stitch?
No. Garter stitch uses only knit stitches. You knit every single row, turn your work, and knit again. You never purl when making garter stitch.