The difference between knit and purl stitches
A knit stitch and a purl stitch are the two basic stitches in knitting, and they look completely different on your needles and in the finished fabric. A knit row creates a smooth, V-shaped column of stitches that faces you. A purl row creates a bumpy, horizontal ridge that also faces you. When you work them in alternating rows, the bumpy side and smooth side create the textured pattern you see in most knitted sweaters and scarves.
The physical motion is what makes them look different. In a knit stitch, you insert your needle from left to right through the loop on your left needle, wrap the yarn around the back, and pull it through. In a purl stitch, you insert your needle from right to left through the same loop, wrap the yarn around the front, and pull it through. The direction you enter the loop and where you hold the yarn changes what the finished stitch looks like.
Key Takeaways
- A knit stitch creates a smooth V-shape that faces forward; a purl stitch creates a horizontal bump that also faces forward.
- The difference comes from which direction you insert your needle and where you hold the yarn before you wrap it.
- Knit rows and purl rows alternate to create the flat, reversible fabric called stockinette stitch.
- The bumpy side of stockinette (called reverse stockinette) is just the purl side facing outward.
What a knit stitch looks like on the needle
When you work a knit stitch, you see a V-shaped loop forming on your right needle. The V opens toward you. If you look at a completed knit row from the front, all the stitches line up in neat vertical columns, each one a small V sitting on top of the one below it. This is the smooth, flat side of stockinette stitch.
On the back of a knit row (the side facing away from you as you work), you see horizontal bumps. Those bumps are the purl side showing through. This matters because when you flip your knitting over to look at the back, you are actually looking at what a purl row would show if you had worked it facing the other direction.
What a purl stitch looks like on the needle
When you work a purl stitch, you see a horizontal bump forming on your right needle. The bump sits in front of the needle as you work. If you look at a completed purl row from the front, all the stitches line up in horizontal ridges, one on top of another. This is the bumpy, textured side of stockinette stitch.
On the back of a purl row, you see vertical V-shapes. Again, this is the same as the knit side—you are just looking at it from the opposite direction. The key point is that purl and knit are not different stitches; they are the same stitch worked from opposite sides of the fabric.
How knit and purl rows combine to make stockinette stitch
Stockinette stitch is made by alternating one row of knits with one row of purls. The result is a flat, smooth fabric on one side and a bumpy fabric on the other. Most knitted garments use stockinette because it lies flat and looks polished.
When you work stockinette, you knit one row (all V-shapes facing you), then turn your work around and purl the next row (all bumps facing you). From the front of your work, you see only the smooth V-side. The bumpy purl side is hidden on the back. If you wanted to wear the bumpy side out, you would straightforward flip the garment inside out—that is called reverse stockinette, and it is the same fabric, just turned around.
Why the stitches look different even though they are the same motion
The reason knit and purl look so different is the direction you approach the loop. When you knit, you go in from the left side of the loop and come out the right side. When you purl, you go in from the right side and come out the left side. The yarn also sits in a different place before you wrap it—in front of the needle for purl, behind the needle for knit.
This changes which part of the loop twists as you pull the new stitch through. The twist creates either a V-shape (knit) or a bump (purl). It is the same loop of yarn, just manipulated from a different angle. Once you understand that, the stitches stop looking like magic and start looking like what they are: two ways of threading yarn through the same loop.
How to spot knit and purl stitches in your own work
Hold your knitting up to the light and look at the side facing you. If you see vertical V-shapes in neat columns, you are looking at knit stitches. If you see horizontal bumps stacked on top of each other, you are looking at purl stitches. The bumps are wider and rounder than the V-shapes, so they are straightforward to tell apart once you know what to look for.
As you work, you can also feel the difference. Knit stitches feel smoother under your fingers. Purl stitches feel slightly textured because the bump is sitting right in front of you on the needle. After a few rows, your hands will recognize the difference without you having to look.
Common mistakes when learning knit and purl
The most common mistake is holding the yarn in the wrong place before you wrap it. If you forget to move your yarn to the front for a purl stitch, you will accidentally knit instead, and your row will not look right. The second mistake is inserting the needle in the wrong direction. Knit goes left to right; purl goes right to left. If you reverse this, the stitch will twist and look loose or uneven.
The third mistake is thinking that knit and purl are completely separate stitches. They are not. They are the same stitch approached from opposite sides. Once you see that, fixing your tension and keeping your stitches even becomes much easier. You are not learning two different techniques; you are learning one technique from two angles.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why does my purl row look messier than my knit row?
Purl stitches often look looser because the yarn sits in front of the needle, which can make tension harder to control. Try holding the yarn slightly tighter as you wrap it for purl stitches. Also, purl rows are naturally bumpier—that is the point. If the bumps are very large or uneven, your tension is probably too loose overall.
Can I knit a whole project using only knit stitches?
Yes. If you knit every row (called garter stitch), you get a bumpy, textured fabric that looks the same on both sides. Garter stitch is thicker and stretchier than stockinette. Many beginners start with garter stitch because it is easier to see your mistakes, and it does not curl at the edges the way stockinette does.
What is reverse stockinette?
Reverse stockinette is stockinette flipped inside out. Instead of showing the smooth V-side, you show the bumpy purl side. It is the same fabric—you are just wearing it the other way. Some patterns call for reverse stockinette on purpose to create texture or contrast.
Do I have to alternate knit and purl rows?
No. You can work any combination of knit and purl rows to create different patterns. Garter stitch is all knits. Stockinette is alternating knit and purl. Ribbing is knit and purl stitches worked side by side in the same row. Each combination creates a different look and feel.
How do I know which side of my knitting is the front?
You decide. Whichever side you want to show is the front. In stockinette, most people show the smooth V-side because it looks polished. But if you like the bumpy texture, show that side instead. There is no rule—it is your choice based on what you want the finished piece to look like.