A blind hem hides the stitches inside the fold of fabric

A blind hem is a stitch that runs inside the fold of a hem so the thread does not show on the outside of the garment. The needle catches just a thread or two of the garment fabric, then travels inside the fold, then catches the garment again—this back-and-forth between inside and outside creates a seam that is nearly invisible from the front. You can sew a blind hem by hand with a needle and thread, or by machine if your sewing machine has a blind hem stitch setting.

The blind hem works best on woven fabrics like cotton, linen, and wool. It is harder to use on stretchy knits because the fabric moves as you work. The stitch is most common on pants hems, skirt hems, and the edges of home décor items like curtains and pillowcases.

Key Takeaways

  • A blind hem stitch runs inside the fold of fabric so the thread stays hidden from the outside.
  • Hand sewing a blind hem takes longer but gives you full control and works on any fabric.
  • Machine blind hemming is faster but requires a blind hem presser foot and a machine stitch setting designed for the technique.
  • The fold of the hem must be pressed flat and the garment must be pinned so the fold stays in place while you work.
  • A single thread color that matches the garment fabric makes the stitch less visible if any thread does show.

Hand sewing a blind hem: the basic technique

Start by pressing the hem up to the length you want, then fold the hem fabric back on itself so the raw edge is hidden inside. Pin the fold in place. Thread a needle with thread that matches your garment, tie a knot at the end, and bring the needle up through the fold from inside—the knot should stay hidden in the fold.

Catch just one or two threads of the garment fabric directly across from where your needle came out. The stitch should be very small, about 1/8 inch. Pull the thread snug but not tight. Now slide your needle back into the fold, travel about 1/4 inch inside the fold, and come back out. Catch the garment fabric again with a small stitch. Repeat this pattern—small stitch in the garment, travel inside the fold, small stitch in the garment—all the way around the hem.

The key is keeping the stitches small and the tension even. If you pull too hard, the thread will pucker the fabric. If the stitches are too large, they will show from the outside. Work slowly and check your progress from the front of the garment every few inches.

Machine blind hemming: setup and settings

Most modern sewing machines have a blind hem stitch built in. Check your machine manual for the stitch number—it is often labeled "blind hem" or shown as a diagram of a stitch that moves side to side. You will also need a blind hem presser foot, which has a metal guide that holds the fold of fabric in the right position as you sew. If your machine did not come with one, you can buy a universal blind hem foot that fits most machines.

Set your machine to the blind hem stitch and attach the blind hem foot. Use thread that matches your garment in the top spool and bobbin thread that matches as well. Set the stitch length to 2.0 to 2.5 mm and the width to 1.5 to 2.0 mm—check your manual for the recommended settings for your machine, as these vary.

The blind hem foot has a guide that should sit just inside the fold of your hem. The needle should catch the garment fabric on the right side of the stitch, then travel inside the fold on the left side. If your first test stitch shows the thread on the outside of the garment, adjust the foot position slightly or change the stitch width.

Preparing the hem before you stitch

Whether you sew by hand or machine, the hem must be pressed and pinned correctly or the stitch will not work. Fold the garment to the finished length you want and press the fold with an iron. The crease should be sharp and even all the way around.

Fold the hem fabric back on itself so the raw edge sits about 1/4 inch inside the fold. Press this second fold as well. This creates the pocket where your needle will travel. Pin the fold in place every 2 to 3 inches so it does not shift while you work. For machine sewing, pin perpendicular to the fold so the pins do not get in the way of the presser foot.

If the hem is very long or the fabric is heavy, baste the fold in place with a long running stitch before you sew the blind hem. This takes a few extra minutes but prevents the fold from moving and ruining your stitches.

Common mistakes and how to fix them

The most common mistake is catching too much fabric in the garment stitch. If you grab more than one or two threads, the stitch will show on the outside. Practice on a scrap of the same fabric first. Make your garment stitch as small as possible—if it is barely visible, you are doing it right.

Another mistake is sewing too close to the fold. If your needle goes into the fold itself rather than just inside it, the stitch will be visible and the hem will look bulky. Keep the needle just barely inside the fold, traveling parallel to the edge.

Puckering happens when you pull the thread too tight. The blind hem stitch should lie flat and smooth. If you see wrinkles in the fabric, loosen your tension slightly. On a machine, this means turning the tension dial down one or two numbers. By hand, straightforward pull the thread with less force.

When to use a blind hem versus other hem stitches

A blind hem is the best choice when you want the hem to be invisible from the outside—dress pants, formal skirts, and fine home décor items. It takes longer than a straightforward running stitch or whip stitch, so it is not the best choice for work clothes or items that will get heavy wear.

If your machine does not have a blind hem stitch, you can use a whip stitch by hand instead. A whip stitch is faster and works on most fabrics, though it is slightly more visible than a blind hem. For knit fabrics that stretch, a stretch blind hem stitch (if your machine has one) or a hand-sewn blind hem with elastic thread in the bobbin will give better results than a standard blind hem.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use a blind hem stitch on stretchy fabric?

Standard blind hem stitches do not work well on knits because the fabric moves as you sew. If your machine has a stretch blind hem stitch, use that instead. By hand, you can sew a blind hem on knit fabric, but use a thread with a little give—elastic thread or a polyester blend works better than 100% cotton.

What thread color should I use?

Match the thread to the garment fabric as closely as you can. If you cannot find an exact match, choose a color slightly darker than the fabric rather than lighter—darker thread is less visible if a stitch shows. Use the same color in the bobbin if you are machine sewing.

How do I know if my machine has a blind hem stitch?

Check your sewing machine manual for a stitch diagram or list. The blind hem stitch is usually numbered and shown as a stitch that moves side to side. If you cannot find it in the manual, look at the stitch selector dial on your machine—some machines label it with a picture. If your machine does not have one, you can sew a blind hem by hand instead.

What if the stitches show on the outside of the garment?

Make your stitch in the garment fabric smaller—you should catch only one or two threads. Also check that you are not sewing too close to the fold. The needle should travel inside the fold, not through it. If you are machine sewing, adjust the blind hem foot position so the guide sits just inside the fold.

How long does a blind hem last?

A blind hem is as durable as any other hand or machine stitch if it is sewn correctly. The stitch itself does not wear out faster than other stitches. If the hem comes loose, it is usually because the thread was pulled too tight during sewing, which weakened the fabric, or because the garment was washed or worn roughly.