A blind hem on the machine looks nearly invisible from the outside

A blind hem is a stitch that catches only a thread or two of your fabric's fold, so the thread line stays hidden inside the fold. On a machine, you use a special presser foot and a zigzag stitch that moves side to side — the needle goes into the fold, then out into the main fabric, then back into the fold. Done right, almost no thread shows on the outside.

The machine method is faster than hand-sewing and works well on knits, stretchy fabrics, and hems on garments you wear often. It does require a blind hem foot (sometimes called a blind stitch foot), which costs between $15 and $40 depending on your machine brand. If your machine did not come with one, check your manual for the part number, or search your machine model plus "blind hem foot" online.

Key Takeaways

  • You need a blind hem foot and a blind hem or narrow zigzag stitch — check your machine manual to confirm your model has both.
  • Fold your hem up and press it flat, then fold the main fabric back on itself so only a sliver of the hem shows, and pin it in place.
  • The needle should catch only one or two threads of the folded hem edge, then swing out into the main fabric — adjust the foot position if the needle misses the fold or goes too deep.
  • Test on scrap fabric first, because the stitch is straightforward to unpick if the tension or foot position is wrong, and you want to see how it looks before committing to your garment.

Check your machine manual for the blind hem stitch and foot

Not every machine has a blind hem stitch built in. Open your manual and search for "blind hem" or "blind stitch." If your machine has one, the manual will show you which stitch number it is and whether it needs a special foot. Some machines call it a "blind hem stitch," others call it a "narrow zigzag" or "serpentine stitch" — the shape is what matters, not the name.

If your manual does not mention blind hem, your machine may not have the stitch. In that case, you can still sew a blind hem by hand, or you can use a narrow zigzag stitch as a substitute (it will show a little more thread, but it still works). If you want the true invisible stitch, you will need to buy a blind hem foot and check whether your machine supports that stitch — the foot alone will not work without the right stitch.

Prepare your hem: fold, press, and pin

Start with your garment inside out. Fold the raw edge of the fabric up to the finished hem length you want — usually between half an inch and one inch — and press it flat with an iron. This first fold is your hem allowance.

Fold the hem up again to the same width and press it again. You now have a double-folded hem, which is stronger and hides the raw edge. Pin it in place every two to three inches.

Now fold the main body of the garment back on itself so that only about a quarter inch of the folded hem is visible. The fold of the main fabric should sit right at the edge of the hem fold. Pin this in place too. This positioning is what lets the needle catch just the hem edge while the foot guides the stitch into the main fabric.

Install the blind hem foot and thread your machine

Raise your presser foot and remove the old foot. Slide the blind hem foot onto the presser bar — it should click or screw into place depending on your machine. Lower the presser foot to lock it.

Thread your machine as you normally would. Use thread that matches your fabric, or use clear or smoke-colored thread if you want the stitch to be even less visible. Wind a bobbin and insert it as usual.

Set your machine to the blind hem stitch (check your manual for the stitch number). Set the stitch length to 2.0 to 2.5 mm — shorter stitches are harder to see, but too short and the fabric can pucker. Set the stitch width to 1.5 to 2.0 mm. These are starting points; you may adjust them after you test on scrap.

Test on scrap fabric before sewing your garment

Cut a piece of scrap fabric the same weight as your garment — a cotton scrap for a cotton shirt, a knit scrap for a knit dress. Fold and pin it the same way you folded your hem: double fold, then the main fabric folded back to show just a sliver of the hem.

Sew slowly along the fold. Watch where the needle goes. It should go into the fold of the hem, then swing out and catch one or two threads of the main fabric, then swing back into the fold. If the needle misses the fold entirely, the stitch will not catch the hem. If it goes too deep into the main fabric, the stitch will show on the outside.

Stop and check the result. Unfold the scrap and look at both sides. The outside should show almost no thread. The inside should show a line of thread along the hem fold. If the stitch is catching too much fabric or missing the fold, adjust the blind hem foot position — most feet have a small guide that you can move left or right — or adjust the stitch width down slightly and test again.

Sew the hem on your garment

Once your test looks right, position your garment under the foot with the fold of the hem facing the guide on the foot. The needle should be positioned to catch the fold. Lower the presser foot and begin sewing at a slow, steady pace.

Sew all the way around the hem. At corners, stop with the needle down, raise the presser foot, pivot the fabric, lower the foot, and continue. Backstitch at the start and end to lock the thread.

When you reach the end, raise the presser foot and remove the garment. Trim the thread tails. Unfold the hem and press it flat with an iron. The stitch should be nearly invisible from the outside.

Troubleshoot if the stitch does not look right

If the thread shows on the outside, the needle is catching too much of the main fabric. Move the blind hem foot guide slightly away from the fold, or reduce the stitch width by 0.5 mm and test again on scrap.

If the stitch is skipping or the needle is missing the fold entirely, the foot guide may be too far from the fold. Move it closer, or increase the stitch width slightly. You can also check that your needle is inserted correctly (flat side facing the right direction for your machine) and that it is not bent or dull.

If the hem is puckering, your stitch length may be too short or your tension too tight. Increase the stitch length to 2.5 mm or loosen the top tension slightly. Test on scrap before sewing your garment again.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I sew a blind hem without a special foot?

You can use a narrow zigzag stitch and a regular presser foot, but the stitch will show more thread on the outside. A blind hem foot is designed to guide the needle into the fold precisely, so without it the results are less invisible. If you do not have a blind hem foot, hand-sewing a blind hem is often faster and neater.

What thread should I use?

Use thread that matches your fabric color. If you want the stitch to be even less visible, clear or smoke-colored thread works on most fabrics. Use the same weight thread as you would for regular sewing — do not use heavy thread, which will show and can break.

Why is my blind hem showing on the outside?

The needle is catching too much of the main fabric instead of just the fold. Move the blind hem foot guide closer to the fold, or reduce the stitch width. Test on scrap fabric first to see where the needle is going before you sew your garment again.

Can I use a blind hem stitch on stretchy fabrics?

Yes, blind hem works well on knits and stretch fabrics. Use a ballpoint or stretch needle instead of a regular needle, and reduce the stitch length slightly so the stitches are closer together. This prevents the stitch from breaking when the fabric stretches.

How do I fix a blind hem if I made a mistake?

Use a seam ripper to cut and remove the stitches. Pull out the thread carefully. Refold your hem, repin it, and sew again. The holes from the first attempt will usually close up when you press the fabric with an iron.