A blind hem hides the stitching inside the fold of fabric

A blind hem is a seam where the thread runs inside the fold of fabric, so no stitches show on the outside. On a sewing machine, you create this by folding the fabric edge inward, using a special presser foot, and letting the needle catch just a thread or two of the fold while the rest of the stitch runs in the hem allowance underneath. The result looks hand-sewn from the outside.

Most modern machines have a blind hem stitch built in — it is usually stitch number 10 or 11 in your manual, though the number varies by brand. You will also need a blind hem presser foot, which has a guide that holds the fold steady as you sew. If your machine did not come with one, you can buy a universal blind hem foot for $8 to $15 that fits most machines.

The technique takes practice, but once you understand how the fold sits against the guide, the machine does most of the work. The hardest part is pressing the hem correctly before you sew.

Key Takeaways

  • You need a blind hem presser foot and a blind hem stitch setting on your machine; check your manual for the stitch number and whether the foot came with your machine.
  • Press the hem allowance up first, then fold the main fabric down over it so only a thin edge of the fold shows — this fold rides against the guide on the presser foot.
  • Thread color matters: use thread that matches the fashion fabric, not the hem, because the stitches that show will be in the fold of the outer fabric.
  • Test on scrap fabric first, because the needle position and stitch width need adjustment for your specific fabric weight and fold thickness.
  • The needle should catch only one or two threads of the fold on each stitch; if you catch too much fabric, the stitches will show on the outside.

Prepare the hem by pressing it in two folds

Start with a garment or fabric piece where you have already marked your hem depth — typically 1 to 1.5 inches for pants or skirts. Press the raw edge of the hem allowance up toward the inside of the garment, using a hot iron and steam if your fabric allows it. This first fold should be sharp and even all the way around.

Next, fold the main body of the garment down over the hem allowance so that only about 1/4 inch of the folded edge shows. This thin fold is what will ride against the guide on your presser foot. Press this second fold firmly as well. The fold should be crisp enough that it holds its shape when you pick up the garment — if it flops open, your stitches will be uneven.

If your fabric is slippery or stretchy, use a pressing cloth between the iron and the fabric to prevent shine marks and distortion. Let the fabric cool completely before you move it to the sewing machine, because a warm fold will shift as you sew.

Install the blind hem foot and select the stitch

Check your machine's manual to find the blind hem stitch number. On most machines it is a stitch that looks like a short straight line with a zigzag bump on one side — the bump is what catches the fold. Write down the stitch number so you do not have to hunt for it again.

Remove your current presser foot by pressing the lever or button at the back of the foot (the exact method depends on your machine brand). Slide the blind hem foot onto the presser bar, making sure the metal shaft slides all the way in and the foot clicks or locks into place. Lower the presser foot lever to find it.

Set your machine to the blind hem stitch and adjust the stitch width and length according to your manual. Most machines use a stitch width of 2 to 3 and a length of 2 to 2.5, but these numbers vary. If your manual does not give a starting point, begin with width 2.5 and length 2, then adjust after you test on scrap.

Thread the machine and test on scrap fabric

Thread your machine with thread that matches the fashion fabric — the outer layer of your garment. The thread color matters because the stitches that will be visible from the outside are the ones that catch the fold. If you use thread that matches the hem allowance instead, those stitches will show as a contrasting line on the outside of your garment.

Cut a piece of scrap fabric at least 4 inches wide and 6 inches long. Fold and press it the same way you pressed your garment hem — first fold up the hem allowance, then fold the main fabric down so only 1/4 inch of the fold shows. Place the scrap under the presser foot so the fold sits against the guide on the side of the foot.

Sew slowly, watching where the needle enters the fold. The needle should catch only one or two threads of the fold on the zigzag part of the stitch, while the straight part of the stitch runs in the hem allowance underneath. If the needle is catching too much fabric, the stitches will show on the outside. If it is missing the fold entirely, adjust the fold position against the guide or move the guide itself if your foot allows it.

After you sew a few inches, stop and open up the scrap to see where the stitches landed. You may need to adjust the stitch width, the fold position, or the guide position. This is normal — blind hem sewing requires a few test runs to dial in.

Sew the hem on your garment

Once your test stitches look right, position your garment under the presser foot with the fold against the guide, just as you did with the scrap. Start at a seam or an inconspicuous spot in case your first few stitches are uneven. Sew slowly and keep the fold pressed firmly against the guide as you move forward.

Do not pull the fabric — let the feed dogs move it. If you tug, the fold will shift away from the guide and your stitches will become irregular. Sew all the way around the hem, stopping just before you reach your starting point. Backstitch to find the thread, then remove the garment.

Open up the hem and inspect the stitches from the inside. You should see a line of stitches running along the hem allowance, with only tiny loops catching the fold of the outer fabric. From the outside, the hem should look nearly invisible — just a thin line where the fold is.

Press the finished hem and trim excess thread

Once you have sewn the entire hem, press it from the inside using a pressing cloth and steam. This sets the stitches and helps the hem lie flat. Press gently — do not use heavy pressure, which can create a shine mark on the outside of the fabric.

Trim any loose thread ends with scissors. If you used a thread color that matches the fashion fabric, any small thread tails will be nearly invisible. If you see stitches showing on the outside of the garment, it usually means the needle was catching too much of the fold. You can carefully pick out those stitches with a seam ripper and re-sew that section, adjusting the fold position or stitch width.

Troubleshoot common blind hem problems

If stitches are showing on the outside, the needle is catching too much fabric from the fold. Reduce the stitch width by 0.5, or reposition the fold so less of it is visible. Test on scrap again before you sew the garment.

If the needle is missing the fold entirely and all the stitches are running in the hem allowance, move the fold closer to the guide or increase the stitch width slightly. The guide should hold the fold so that only the tiniest edge is exposed for the needle to catch.

If the stitches are puckering or the fabric is bunching, you may be sewing too fast or pulling the fabric. Slow down and let the feed dogs do the work. If the fabric is very lightweight or stretchy, use a stabilizer underneath the hem allowance to prevent distortion.

If the thread keeps breaking, check that the presser foot is fully seated and that the thread is threaded correctly. A blind hem foot that is not fully locked in place can cause tension problems. Also make sure you are using thread appropriate for your fabric weight — very thick thread on delicate fabric can cause breakage.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use a blind hem stitch on knit fabrics?

Yes, but knits need a stretch stitch or a ballpoint needle to prevent runs and snagging. Some machines have a blind hem stitch designed for stretch fabrics — check your manual. You may also need to use a stabilizer on the underside of the hem to prevent the fold from stretching out of shape as you sew.

What if my machine does not have a blind hem stitch?

Older machines or very basic models may not have this stitch built in. You can still sew a blind hem by hand using a needle and thread, which takes longer but gives you more control. Alternatively, you can buy an aftermarket blind hem foot and use a narrow zigzag stitch set to very low width, though the results are less reliable than a dedicated blind hem stitch.

How wide should the hem allowance be?

Most garments use a 1 to 1.5 inch hem allowance. Pants and skirts typically use 1.5 inches, while lighter fabrics or dresses may use 1 inch. Check the pattern instructions if you are following a sewing pattern. The wider the allowance, the more fabric you have to hide the stitches in, so thicker or more visible fabrics benefit from a deeper hem.

Why does my blind hem look bumpy on the outside?

Bumps usually mean the needle is catching too much of the fold, or the fold is not pressed sharply enough. Re-press the fold with a hot iron and steam, making sure the crease is crisp. Then test on scrap fabric with a slightly narrower stitch width before you re-sew the garment.

Can I use a blind hem on curved edges like armholes?

Curved edges are much harder because the fold does not stay flat against the guide. For armholes and other curves, a hand-sewn blind hem or a narrow zigzag stitch on the machine usually works better. If you want to try the machine blind hem, practice on a curved scrap first and sew very slowly so you can adjust the fold as you go.