The Basic Steps for Attaching a Collar

Sewing a collar onto a garment involves pinning the collar to the neckline, stitching it in place with a needle and thread or sewing machine, and then folding and securing the seam allowance on the underside. The process takes about 30 minutes to an hour for a beginner, depending on the collar type and whether you use a machine or hand-sew. Most collars are attached before the garment is fully assembled, so check your pattern instructions first.

The key is to match the collar's notches or markings to the garment's neckline markings, then stitch slowly and evenly so the collar sits flat and symmetrical. If you rush or skip the pinning step, the collar will pucker or twist, and you'll have to pick out stitches and start again.

Key Takeaways

  • Pin the collar to the neckline using the pattern's notch marks as guides, checking that both sides are even before you stitch.
  • Stitch the collar to the garment using a straight stitch on a sewing machine or a backstitch by hand, staying close to the edge of the collar.
  • Trim the seam allowance to reduce bulk, then fold the collar's underside seam allowance down and stitch it by hand to enclose the raw edges.
  • Press the collar with an iron after stitching to set the seams and help it lie flat against the neckline.

Preparing the Collar and Garment Pieces

Before you attach the collar, make sure both pieces are cut and prepared correctly. If your pattern calls for interfacing (a stiff backing fabric), fuse or sew it to the underside of the collar according to the pattern instructions. Interfacing helps the collar hold its shape and prevents it from sagging or wrinkling.

Press both the collar and the neckline of the garment with an iron to remove wrinkles and creases. A smooth surface makes it easier to pin accurately and stitch in a straight line. If the neckline has a curve, you may need to clip small notches into the seam allowance so it lies flat when you pin the collar on—check your pattern for guidance on where to clip.

Pinning the Collar in the Right Position

Lay the garment flat on your work surface with the right side facing up. Place the collar on top of the neckline with the right side of the collar facing down (so the wrong sides are touching). This is called "right sides together" and is the standard way to attach pieces before turning them right side out.

Match the notches on the collar to the notches on the garment neckline. Most patterns have a center back notch and notches at the shoulders. Pin at these points first, then add pins every inch or so around the entire neckline. Make sure the collar is centered and both sides are even—measure from the center front to each shoulder on both sides to confirm. If one side is longer than the other, the collar will look crooked when you turn it right side out.

Stitching the Collar to the Neckline

If you are using a sewing machine, set it to a straight stitch with a stitch length of 2.0 to 2.5 millimeters. Start at one end of the collar and stitch slowly along the neckline, removing pins as you approach them. Keep your stitching about 1/4 inch from the edge of the collar—this is your seam allowance and is usually marked on the pattern.

If you are hand-sewing, use a backstitch, which is strong and holds the collar securely. Thread a needle with thread that matches the garment, knot the end, and stitch from the wrong side of the garment, pushing the needle through both the collar and the neckline. Make stitches about 1/8 inch long and keep them as even as possible.

Stitch all the way around the neckline until you reach the starting point. Backstitch a few stitches at the end to lock the thread, then trim the thread tails.

Trimming and Finishing the Seam

Once the collar is stitched to the neckline, trim the seam allowance to reduce bulk. Use sharp scissors to cut the seam allowance down to about 1/8 inch, being careful not to cut through the stitching. If the neckline is curved, clip small notches into the seam allowance at the curves so it will lie flat when you turn the collar right side out.

Turn the collar right side out by pulling it away from the garment. Press the seam with an iron to set the stitches and help the collar lie flat. The seam should sit right at the edge of the collar, with no fabric peeking out from underneath.

Securing the Underside of the Collar

The underside of the collar (called the collar stand or the facing) needs to be stitched down by hand to enclose the raw seam allowance and keep the collar from flipping up. Fold the seam allowance of the underside of the collar down about 1/4 inch and pin it in place so it covers the machine stitching line.

Using a needle and thread that matches the garment, stitch the folded edge down with a ladder stitch (also called an invisible stitch). This stitch runs inside the fold of the fabric, so the stitches are hidden. Make stitches about 1/4 inch long and keep them loose enough that the thread does not pucker the fabric. Stitch all the way around the neckline, then knot the thread on the underside and trim.

Pressing and Final Checks

Press the entire collar with an iron on a medium heat setting, using a pressing cloth if your fabric is delicate. Press from the underside first, then from the right side. This sets all the seams and helps the collar sit smoothly against the neckline.

Check that the collar is symmetrical by measuring from the center front to each shoulder. Make sure there are no puckers or wrinkles along the neckline seam. If the collar twists or sits unevenly, you may need to pick out a section of stitching and re-stitch it. This is normal—even experienced sewers sometimes have to redo a seam to get it right.

Frequently Asked Questions

What if my collar is puckering along the neckline?

Puckering usually means the collar was stretched slightly while stitching, or the seam allowance was not clipped at the curves. Pick out the stitching in the puckered section, clip small notches into the seam allowance, and re-stitch slowly, making sure not to pull the fabric as you sew.

Can I attach a collar by machine without hand-stitching the underside?

Yes, if you use a method called "stitch in the ditch," where you stitch from the right side directly over the seam line. This is faster but less invisible than hand-stitching. You can also use a topstitch, which is a visible line of stitching about 1/4 inch from the seam—this is a design choice and works well on casual garments.

How do I know which side of the collar is the right side?

The right side is the side that will show when you wear the garment. If your pattern includes interfacing, the interfaced side is usually the underside. If there is no interfacing, the pattern instructions will tell you which side is which, or you can look at the grain line marked on the pattern piece.

What if the collar does not line up with the garment neckline?

Check that the notches match and that you pinned the collar centered on the neckline. If the collar is still too large or too small, the pattern may not fit your body measurements. You may need to adjust the neckline seam allowance slightly—make it wider if the collar is too large, or narrower if it is too small—but this should only be a small adjustment of 1/8 inch or less.