What You'll Make and What You Need

A drawstring backpack is a flat, rectangular bag that closes at the top with two cords you pull tight. You'll sew two pieces of fabric together, add a casing (a fabric tunnel) at the top for the drawstring to slide through, and attach two straps. The finished bag is roughly 14 inches wide and 17 inches tall—big enough for a change of clothes, shoes, or gym gear.

Gather these materials before you start: two pieces of fabric, each 15 inches wide and 18 inches tall (cotton or canvas works well); thread that matches your fabric; two pieces of cord or rope, each 36 inches long, for the drawstrings; a needle or sewing machine; scissors; pins; and a measuring tape. If you're using a sewing machine, you'll also need bobbins wound with thread.

Key Takeaways

  • Cut two identical fabric rectangles, pin them with the right sides facing each other, and sew three sides closed, leaving the top open.
  • Fold down the top edge twice to create a casing, then sew it closed, leaving small gaps where the drawstring will enter and exit.
  • Thread both cords through the casing using a safety pin, then tie the ends together so you have one loop that cinches the bag shut.
  • Sew two fabric straps to the inside of the bag at the sides so you can wear it on your shoulders.
  • Common mistakes include sewing the casing too tight, forgetting to leave gaps for the cord, and not securing the knots at the cord ends.

Preparing Your Fabric and Pinning the Sides

Lay both fabric pieces flat on a clean surface with the right sides facing each other—this means the pretty side of the fabric is on the inside, and the back sides are touching. This is important because when you turn the bag right-side-out later, the seams will be hidden inside. Line up all four corners and edges carefully.

Pin the two pieces together along three sides: the left, right, and bottom. Leave the top edge unpinned—that's where you'll add the drawstring casing and where you'll turn the bag right-side-out. Space your pins about 2 inches apart so the fabric doesn't shift while you sew. Double-check that the corners are square and the edges are aligned before you start sewing.

Sewing the Three Sides Closed

Using a sewing machine or needle and thread, sew along the three pinned sides with a straight stitch. If you're using a machine, set it to a medium stitch length (about 2.5 millimeters) and sew about half an inch from the edge. If you're hand-sewing, use a running stitch and keep your stitches small and even—aim for about 8 stitches per inch.

Start at one corner and sew slowly, removing pins as you approach them. When you reach a corner, stop with the needle down, lift the presser foot (if using a machine), pivot the fabric 90 degrees, lower the foot, and continue sewing. At the end, tie off your thread by knotting it or backstitching several times. Leave the top edge completely open—do not sew it closed yet.

Turning the Bag Right-Side-Out and Creating the Casing

Reach through the open top and pull the bag inside-out so the right sides of the fabric are now facing outward. Push the corners out gently with your fingers so they're sharp and square. Press the bag flat with an iron on low heat, or lay it under a heavy book for a few minutes. The seams should be crisp and the fabric should lie flat.

Now you'll create the casing for the drawstring. Fold the raw top edge down toward the inside of the bag by half an inch, then fold it down again by another inch. This double fold hides the raw edge and creates a tunnel. Pin this fold in place all the way around. Sew along the bottom edge of this folded section with a straight stitch, staying about half an inch from the fold. This stitching line creates the casing—the tunnel the drawstring will slide through.

Before you finish, you need to leave two small gaps in the casing so the drawstring can enter and exit. When you're sewing the casing, stop about 2 inches from where you started, leaving a 2-inch gap unsewn. This is your first opening. Sew the rest of the way around, then stop again about 2 inches before you reach the first gap, leaving a second 2-inch opening on the opposite side of the bag. These gaps are where you'll thread the drawstring.

Threading the Drawstring Through the Casing

Attach a safety pin to one end of your first drawstring cord. Feed the safety pin into one of the gaps you left in the casing and push it through the tunnel, working it around the entire casing until it comes out the other gap. The safety pin acts as a weight and guide, making it much easier than trying to thread the cord by hand. Once the first cord is all the way through, remove the safety pin and tie the two ends together with a firm knot.

Repeat this process with the second drawstring cord, starting from the same gap but going the opposite direction around the casing. When you're done, both cords will form loops inside the casing, and pulling either pair of cord ends will cinch the bag closed. Trim any excess cord and seal the knots with a small dab of clear fabric glue or by melting the cord ends slightly with a lighter if the cord is synthetic—this keeps the knots from unraveling.

Sewing the Straps and Finishing

Cut two strips of fabric, each 3 inches wide and 12 inches long. These will be your shoulder straps. Fold each strip in half lengthwise with the right sides facing each other, then sew along the long edge with a half-inch seam allowance. Turn each strap right-side-out using a safety pin or by pushing a pencil through from one end. Press flat with an iron.

Position the straps on the inside of the bag, one on each side, about 2 inches from the side seams. The straps should run from the bottom of the bag to the top edge. Pin them in place and sew them down with a rectangle of stitching—sew a small rectangle around each strap end to anchor it firmly. This reinforces the attachment so the straps don't tear away when you wear the backpack.

Close the two gaps in the casing by sewing across them with a straight stitch. This seals the casing completely and prevents the drawstring from sliding out. Try pulling the drawstring to make sure the bag closes smoothly. If it bunches or catches, the casing may be too tight—you can carefully cut a small slit and add a tiny gusset (a triangular piece of fabric) to loosen it, though this is rarely necessary on a first attempt.

Common Mistakes and How to Avoid Them

The most common error is sewing the casing too tightly, which makes it hard to thread the drawstring and causes the bag to bunch unevenly when closed. To avoid this, make sure your fold is exactly one inch wide and your stitching line is half an inch from the fold—no tighter. If you do end up with a tight casing, you can carefully use a seam ripper to remove a few stitches and re-sew it slightly looser.

Another frequent mistake is forgetting to leave gaps in the casing or making the gaps too small. The gaps should be at least 2 inches wide so you can fit the safety pin through comfortably. If your gaps are too small, the safety pin will get stuck and you'll have to unpick the stitching and start over.

A third issue is not securing the drawstring knots, which causes them to slip apart and the cord to slide out of the casing. Always tie a firm double knot and consider adding a dab of fabric glue or sealing the cord ends if they're fraying. Test the drawstring before you call the bag finished—pull it hard to make sure the knot holds.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use a sewing machine for the whole project if I've never used one before?

Yes. Start by practicing straight stitches on scrap fabric first. Thread the machine, wind a bobbin, and sew a few test lines. Once you're comfortable, the backpack is a good beginner project because it only uses straight stitches and corners. Go slowly at the corners and don't rush—a sewing machine is forgiving if you make a small mistake.

What fabric works best for a drawstring backpack?

Cotton canvas or heavy cotton twill are ideal because they're sturdy, hold their shape, and won't tear easily when you pull the drawstring. Lightweight cotton is fine too, but avoid very thin fabrics like muslin or jersey knit—they won't support the weight of items inside. Avoid slippery fabrics like satin unless you're willing to add interfacing to stabilize them.

Do I have to use rope for the drawstring, or can I make it from fabric?

You can make drawstrings from fabric by cutting long strips, folding them, and sewing them closed, but rope or cord is easier and more durable. If you want fabric drawstrings, use a sturdy material like canvas and make them at least half an inch wide so they don't fray or twist.

What if I don't have a sewing machine?

Hand-sewing works fine—it just takes longer. Use a running stitch and keep your stitches small and even. A needle with a larger eye is easier to thread, and a thimble protects your finger. The project will take two to three hours instead of 45 minutes, but the result is the same.

Can I add pockets to the inside of the backpack?

Yes. Before you sew the two fabric pieces together, pin a pocket piece to the inside of one of the main fabric pieces and sew it on. Make sure the pocket opening faces toward the top of the bag so items don't fall out. Keep the pocket at least 2 inches away from the edges so it doesn't interfere with the side seams.