What You'll Make and What You Need

A drawstring bag is a flat rectangular pouch that closes with a cord threaded through a channel at the top. You'll sew two pieces of fabric together, fold down the top edge to create a tunnel for the drawstring, and thread cord through it. The finished bag holds small items like dice, jewelry, or craft supplies and takes about two to three hours from cutting to finished product.

You need fabric (cotton or linen works best for beginners), thread that matches or contrasts with your fabric, a drawstring (paracord, ribbon, or even shoelace works), scissors, pins, a needle or sewing machine, and a measuring tape. If you're using a sewing machine, you'll also need bobbins wound with thread. Hand-sewing is slower but requires no equipment beyond needle and thread.

Finished bag size depends on what you're storing. A 4-inch by 6-inch bag holds dice or small notions. A 6-inch by 8-inch bag works for jewelry or cosmetics. A 8-inch by 10-inch bag can hold a small book or tablet. Larger bags need thicker fabric and stronger thread to support the weight.

Key Takeaways

  • Cut two identical rectangles of fabric, add a half-inch seam allowance on all sides, and pin them with the right sides facing each other before sewing.
  • Sew three sides completely closed, leaving the top edge open, then turn the bag right-side out through that opening.
  • Fold the raw edges at the top inward by half an inch, press them flat, then fold the entire top down one to one-and-a-half inches to create the drawstring channel.
  • Sew around the folded top edge to seal the channel, leaving a small gap on one side where you can thread the drawstring through.
  • Thread your drawstring through the channel using a safety pin or needle as a guide, then knot the ends so they don't pull through.

Cutting and Pinning Your Fabric Pieces

Measure and mark your finished bag size on the fabric with a pencil or fabric marker. Add half an inch on all four sides for the seam allowance—this is the margin where the needle will run and where two pieces join. If you want a 4-inch by 6-inch finished bag, cut pieces that are 5 inches by 7 inches. Mark these measurements lightly so you can see them while sewing.

Cut two identical rectangles using sharp scissors or a rotary cutter. Uneven pieces will create a lopsided bag, so take time to cut straight lines. Lay the two pieces on top of each other with the right sides facing each other—this means the pretty printed or colored side of the fabric is on the inside, and the back of the fabric faces outward. This is the standard way to sew fabric pieces so the seams end up hidden inside the finished bag.

Pin the two pieces together along three sides: the bottom and both long sides. Leave the top edge unpinned—this is where you'll turn the bag right-side out later. Space pins about two inches apart so the fabric doesn't shift while you sew. Pinning prevents puckering and keeps your seam line straight.

Sewing the Three Sides Closed

Set your sewing machine to a straight stitch with medium tension and a stitch length of about 2.5 millimeters. If you're hand-sewing, use a running stitch or backstitch, which is stronger. Start at one bottom corner and sew along the bottom edge, keeping the needle half an inch from the fabric edge. This half-inch line is your seam allowance—the space between the needle and the edge of the fabric.

Sew slowly and keep the fabric edge aligned with the half-inch mark on your machine's presser foot (most machines have these guides). When you reach the corner, stop with the needle down, lift the presser foot, pivot the fabric 90 degrees, lower the presser foot, and continue sewing up the side. Repeat at the next corner. Sew the entire bottom and both sides, but stop before you reach the top edge.

When you finish the third side, backstitch three or four stitches to lock the thread and prevent unraveling. Trim the thread, remove the pins, and clip the corners diagonally about a quarter inch from the stitching. This removes bulk so the corners lie flat when you turn the bag right-side out. Be careful not to cut through the stitches themselves.

Turning the Bag Right-Side Out and Pressing

Reach through the open top edge and grab the bottom corner of the bag from the inside. Pull gently until the entire bag turns inside out through the opening. The right sides of the fabric are now facing outward, and the seams are hidden inside. This is called turning the bag right-side out.

Use a blunt tool like a chopstick or the eraser end of a pencil to push the corners out from the inside so they form sharp points instead of rounded bulges. Work gently—pushing too hard can tear the seams. Once all four corners are squared out, lay the bag flat on an ironing board and press it with a warm iron. Press the seams flat so they lie smoothly against the fabric. This makes the next step—creating the drawstring channel—much easier and gives the finished bag a professional appearance.

Creating the Drawstring Channel

Fold the raw edges at the top of the bag inward by half an inch and press them with the iron. This hides the raw fabric edges inside the channel. Now fold the entire top edge down one to one-and-a-half inches (depending on how thick your drawstring is—thicker cords need wider channels). Press this fold flat with the iron so it holds its shape while you sew.

The folded-down section creates a tunnel, or channel, that will hold your drawstring. The wider the channel, the easier the drawstring will slide through, but too wide and it looks sloppy. One to one-and-a-half inches is standard. If your drawstring is very thick (like a quarter-inch paracord), make the channel one-and-a-half inches. If it's thin ribbon, one inch is enough.

Pin around the entire folded edge to hold it in place while you sew. Space pins about two inches apart. The pins should go through all the layers—the folded-down fabric and the bag body underneath—so nothing shifts while you're sewing.

Sewing the Channel Closed and Threading the Drawstring

Sew around the entire folded edge, staying about a quarter inch from the fold line. This stitching seals the channel and prevents it from unfolding. Sew all the way around, but stop about two inches before you reach your starting point. Do not sew the entire circle closed—you need a small gap so you can thread the drawstring through.

Backstitch to lock the thread, trim it, and remove the pins. Now you have a channel with a small opening on one side. Attach a safety pin to one end of your drawstring. Feed the safety pin through the gap and into the channel, pushing it around the entire tunnel until it comes back out the same gap. The drawstring follows behind the safety pin. If you don't have a safety pin, thread a needle with strong thread, tie it to the drawstring, and use the needle as a guide instead.

Once the drawstring is threaded all the way through and both ends are hanging out of the gap, tie a knot in each end so the drawstring can't be pulled back through the channel. You can tie both ends together in a single knot, or tie each end separately. If you want, sew the gap closed with a few stitches to hide it, though many people leave it open for easier adjustment.

Finishing Touches and Common Mistakes to Avoid

Trim any loose threads with scissors. If the seams inside the bag are rough or fraying, you can seal them with a zigzag stitch on a sewing machine, or straightforward leave them as they are—the inside of a drawstring bag rarely shows. Press the entire finished bag one more time with the iron so it looks crisp and flat.

The most common mistake is sewing the top edge completely closed before threading the drawstring. Always leave a gap. The second mistake is making the channel too narrow for your drawstring—if the cord gets stuck, you'll spend frustrating minutes trying to thread it. Test the fit before you commit to sewing; thread the drawstring through by hand first to make sure it moves smoothly. The third mistake is not knotting the drawstring ends, which means the cord can slide all the way through and disappear inside the bag.

If your seams are crooked or uneven, the bag will still work—it just won't look as polished. If you're hand-sewing and your stitches are large or loose, go back and add a second row of stitches next to the first one for strength. If a corner doesn't square out properly, use the iron to press it flat and accept that handmade bags have character.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use a sewing machine if I've never used one before?

Yes. A drawstring bag is an ideal first project because it uses only straight stitches and straightforward shapes. Read your machine's manual to learn how to thread it and wind a bobbin, then practice on scrap fabric before you start. Sew slowly and keep your hands relaxed—the machine does the work.

What kind of fabric is easiest for a beginner?

Cotton quilting fabric or linen is forgiving and straightforward to cut straight. Avoid stretchy fabrics like jersey or knits, which shift while you sew. Avoid very thin fabrics like silk, which tear easily. Medium-weight cotton is ideal.

What if I don't have a drawstring and don't want to buy one?

Shoelaces, paracord from a hardware store, ribbon, twine, or even strips of fabric work as drawstrings. Fabric strips can be cut from leftover fabric and sewn end-to-end. The drawstring doesn't need to be fancy—it just needs to be long enough to thread through the channel and tie.

How long should the drawstring be?

Measure around the top of your finished bag and multiply by 1.5. For a 4-inch by 6-inch bag, the circumference is roughly 20 inches, so a 30-inch drawstring gives you enough length to thread through the channel and tie a knot with tails left over. You can always trim excess length after tying.

Can I hand-sew the whole bag instead of using a machine?

Yes. Hand-sewing takes longer—plan for four to five hours instead of two to three—but the process is identical. Use a backstitch, which is stronger than a running stitch. Keep your stitches small and even, about one-eighth inch long. Hand-sewn bags are durable if the stitches are tight.