The Basic Steps for a Lined Drawstring Bag

A lined drawstring bag is built in two layers — an outer fabric and an inner lining — sewn together at the top, then turned right-side out so the seams hide inside. The drawstring runs through a channel (called a casing) at the top edge. The whole process takes about two hours for a beginner and requires only a sewing machine, thread, scissors, and fabric.

The order matters: you sew the outer bag and lining separately, then join them at the top before turning the bag inside out through a small opening. That opening gets stitched closed by hand or machine. Once the bag is right-side out, you sew the casing — a horizontal line near the top — and thread the drawstring through it.

This method works because the lining stays hidden and the drawstring sits in its own channel, so the bag looks finished on both sides. No raw edges show, and the lining protects whatever goes inside.

Key Takeaways

  • Cut four fabric pieces: two for the outer bag and two for the lining, all the same size and shape.
  • Sew the outer bag pieces together on three sides, then sew the lining pieces together on three sides, leaving a 3-inch opening in the lining for turning.
  • Place the outer bag inside the lining (right sides facing), sew around the top edge, then pull the bag through the opening in the lining to turn it right-side out.
  • Stitch the opening in the lining closed by hand, then sew a horizontal line 1 to 1.5 inches below the top edge to create the drawstring casing.
  • Thread the drawstring through the casing using a safety pin or bodkin, and knot the ends.

Cutting and Preparing Your Fabric

Start by choosing two fabrics: one for the outside and one for the lining. Cotton quilting fabric and cotton canvas work well for beginners because they hold their shape and are straightforward to sew. Lining fabric is usually lighter — cotton broadcloth or cotton sateen are common choices. You need four identical rectangular pieces: two outer and two lining.

Decide on your finished bag size. A common beginner size is 8 inches wide by 10 inches tall. Add 0.5 inches on all sides for seam allowance, so cut each piece 9 inches wide by 11 inches tall. Mark these measurements on your fabric with a ruler and fabric pencil or chalk, then cut straight lines with sharp scissors or a rotary cutter. Stack the pieces so you can see which are outer and which are lining.

Press all four pieces flat with an iron on medium heat. Wrinkles make it harder to sew straight lines and harder to see where you are stitching.

Sewing the Outer Bag and Lining Separately

Place two outer fabric pieces with right sides together (the pretty sides facing each other, the wrong sides facing out). Pin along three sides — the two long sides and the bottom — leaving the top edge unpinned. Sew along these three pinned sides using a straight stitch with 0.5-inch seam allowance. Backstitch at the start and end of each seam to lock the thread. Do not sew the top edge yet.

Repeat this step with the two lining pieces, but leave a 3-inch opening in the bottom seam. This opening is how you will turn the bag right-side out later, so leave it roughly in the middle of the bottom edge. Backstitch before and after the opening so the seam does not unravel.

Trim the corners of both bags diagonally, cutting away the fabric triangle at each corner without cutting into the seam itself. This step, called clipping corners, lets the corners lie flat when you turn the bag right-side out. Press the seams flat with an iron.

Joining the Outer Bag and Lining at the Top

Slip the outer bag inside the lining so the right sides of both bags face each other. The wrong sides now face outward. Match up the top edges and pin all the way around. The seams of the outer bag should line up with the seams of the lining at the side edges.

Sew around the entire top edge using a 0.5-inch seam allowance. Backstitch at the start and end. This seam joins the outer bag and lining permanently. Trim this seam to 0.25 inches to reduce bulk, then press it flat.

Now reach through the 3-inch opening in the lining and grab the outer bag. Pull it through the opening, turning both bags right-side out in one motion. The outer fabric is now on the outside and the lining is on the inside, with the seam you just sewed hidden between them. Gently push the corners out with a blunt tool like a chopstick or the eraser end of a pencil to make them sharp.

Closing the Lining Opening and Creating the Casing

Press the entire bag flat with an iron, paying special attention to the top edge. The seam at the top should be crisp and sit right at the edge. Fold the raw edges of the 3-inch opening in the lining inward by 0.5 inches and press them. Pin the opening closed.

Stitch the opening closed using a ladder stitch (also called an invisible stitch) if you want the seam to be nearly invisible, or use a straightforward straight stitch 0.25 inches from the folded edge if you prefer speed. Ladder stitch takes longer but looks neater; straight stitch is faster and still looks fine on the inside of a bag.

Once the opening is closed, lay the bag flat and measure 1 to 1.5 inches down from the top edge. Mark a light line all the way around using a fabric pencil or chalk. This line is where your drawstring casing will be. Sew along this line using a straight stitch, backstitching at the start and end. This seam creates a channel between the top edge and this new seam — the drawstring will run through this channel.

Threading the Drawstring

Cut a piece of cord, ribbon, or fabric strip for your drawstring. A common length is 60 inches, which gives you two 30-inch ends to pull. Cord works best because it does not fray and slides easily through the casing. Attach a safety pin to one end of the drawstring by looping the cord through the pin's eye and pinning it closed.

Insert the safety pin into the casing at one side seam. Push it through the channel, working the drawstring along behind it. The safety pin acts as a needle, pulling the drawstring through. When the safety pin reaches the starting point again, remove it and pull both ends of the drawstring so they are even. Tie a knot at each end to prevent the drawstring from sliding back through the casing.

Trim the ends of the drawstring if they are too long, or leave them long if you prefer a decorative look. Your lined drawstring bag is now complete.

Troubleshooting Common Sewing Problems

If the corners are bunched or lumpy after turning the bag right-side out, you did not clip them deeply enough. You can fix this by carefully snipping a bit more fabric from the corner seam allowance (without cutting the actual seam) and pressing again with an iron.

If the drawstring gets stuck in the casing, the safety pin may have twisted or the cord may have caught on a thread. Stop, gently wiggle the safety pin back and forth, and try again slowly. If the cord is truly stuck, you can carefully cut a small slit in the casing fabric, pull the cord out, and hand-stitch the slit closed.

If the top seam is wavy or uneven, you likely pinned the outer bag and lining at different tensions. Press the seam flat with an iron and a damp cloth, which often smooths out minor waves. For future bags, pin more frequently and check that both layers are lying flat before sewing.

Fabric and Thread Choices for Different Bag Uses

For a bag that holds lightweight items like jewelry or small toys, use lightweight cotton or linen for both outer and lining. For a bag that carries heavier items like books or gym clothes, choose a sturdy outer fabric like canvas or denim and a medium-weight lining like cotton sateen.

Thread color should match your outer fabric if you want seams to blend in, or contrast if you want them to show as a design detail. All-purpose polyester thread works for most fabrics and is inexpensive. Cotton thread is softer and looks more natural but breaks more easily if you pull too hard while sewing.

Drawstring material can be cotton cord, nylon cord, ribbon, or even a strip of fabric you sew into a tube. Cord is fastest; fabric strips take longer to make but match your bag perfectly if you cut them from leftover outer fabric.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I make a lined drawstring bag without a sewing machine?

Yes, but it takes much longer. You can hand-stitch every seam using a running stitch or backstitch, which takes three to four hours for a beginner. The seams will be less even than machine stitching, but they will hold. Use a thimble to protect your finger and wax your thread to make it stronger.

What size should I cut the opening in the lining?

Three to four inches is standard. It needs to be large enough to fit your hand through comfortably so you can grab the outer bag and pull it through. Too small and you will struggle; too large and it takes longer to stitch closed.

Do I have to use a safety pin to thread the drawstring?

A safety pin is the easiest method, but you can also use a bodkin (a flat metal tool made for this purpose), a large needle, or even a straw. The tool just needs to be small enough to fit in the casing and sturdy enough to push through without bending. A safety pin costs almost nothing and works well.

Can I add pockets to the lining?

Yes. Before you sew the two lining pieces together, sew a pocket piece to the inside of one lining piece. Position it where you want it, sew around three sides, and leave the top open. Then sew the two lining pieces together as usual. The pocket will be hidden inside the finished bag.

What if my fabric is slippery and keeps sliding while I sew?

Pin more frequently — every inch instead of every few inches — and sew slowly. You can also use fabric spray adhesive to temporarily glue the two layers together before pinning, which holds them in place while you sew. Let the adhesive dry for a few minutes before sewing.